The T5 Q&a Thread

[pfy333]

Hi Grim, Merry Christmas. I just purchase SLS Tek 5 6X 54W fixtures without bulbs. I was directed here for help on bulb selection. My thing is I'm new to the hobby and will run the tank as a FOWLR for a while till I get more experience. I was recommended to only run front and rear bulb set up since 6 bulbs would be kinda overkill. Can you recommend a 2 bulb set up for just a FOWLR and a mix reef 6 bulb setup for later. Oh yea I have a basic 90 gal. tank. Thanks in advance.

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by elmosz1
Hi,

Setting up 180 gal(6'x2'x2'): 60-70% sps and 30-40% lps.
Sps high and toward back.
Lps low and front. (acans and echinos-majority reds/pinks/oranges)

8x80 watts, SLR reflectors, ice cap ballasts.

Which T5 bulbs and in what order?

Thanks for your help.

Try this

Front
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
ATI Pro Color
ATI Actinic
ATI Blue Plus
GE 6500K Daylight
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by pfy333
Hi Grim, Merry Christmas. I just purchase SLS Tek 5 6X 54W fixtures without bulbs. I was directed here for help on bulb selection. My thing is I'm new to the hobby and will run the tank as a FOWLR for a while till I get more experience. I was recommended to only run front and rear bulb set up since 6 bulbs would be kinda overkill. Can you recommend a 2 bulb set up for just a FOWLR and a mix reef 6 bulb setup for later. Oh yea I have a basic 90 gal. tank. Thanks in advance.

Run a Aquablue and a Blue Plus

Once you reef up add a UVL Aquasun, UVL Super Actinic, Another ATI Blue Plus and ATI Aquablue

[flaco626nj]

hey grim how what would you suggest for a six bulb front and back on workhorse 5 with icecap reflectors and 4 in the middle on 1cecap 660 with ice cap reflectors 48 inch retrokit...looking for the color pop and par for sps ....also can you name manufactor of bulb i dont get the lingo thanks
victor

Hobby Experience: few years fresh water mbuna setup new to salt water
Current Tanks: i have a 12 gal ap/90 gal with 30 sump/fug/dasex1 protien skimmer
Interests: cars photography and fish tanks



Open this post in a new window | Report this post to a moderator | IP: Logged



12/25/2007 02:51 AM

flaco626nj
Registered Member

Registered: Mar 2007
Location: georgia
Occupation:
Posts: 136


this is what i got front to back
ati pure actinic
d d actinic plus
d d actinic plus
d d midday 6000k
d d aquablue +
d d pure actinic
still seem to have a yellow look to it any suggestions

Hobby Experience: few years fresh water mbuna setup new to salt water
Current Tanks: i have a 12 gal ap/90 gal with 30 sump/fug/dasex1 protien skimmer
Interests: cars photography and fish tanks



Open this post in a new window | Report this post to a moderator | IP: Logged



12/25/2007 03:03 AM

flaco626nj
Registered Member

Registered: Mar 2007
Location: georgia
Occupation:
Posts: 136


here is a quick layout of what i have thanks again victor


Hobby Experience: few years fresh water mbuna setup new to salt water
Current Tanks: i have a 12 gal ap/90 gal with 30 sump/fug/dasex1 protien skimmer
Interests: cars photography and fish tanks



Open this post in a new window | Report this post to a moderator | IP: Logged



12/25/2007 07:14 PM

flaco626nj
Registered Member

Registered: Mar 2007
Location: georgia
Occupation:
Posts: 136


i really dont want that much blue that everything looks grey i want to see all my colors pop out at me i think fiji had a nice color patternand some one else that had that hint of purple in there tank

Hobby Experience: few years fresh water mbuna setup new to salt water
Current Tanks: i have a 12 gal ap/90 gal with 30 sump/fug/dasex1 protien skimmer
Interests: cars photography and fish tanks



Open this post in a new window | Report this post to a moderator | IP: Logged

[flaco626nj]

here is the pic maeery christmas

[pfy333]

Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
Run a Aquablue and a Blue Plus

Once you reef up add a UVL Aquasun, UVL Super Actinic, Another ATI Blue Plus and ATI Aquablue

Thank you Grim, happy holiday.

[TropTrea]

The yellow is coming from the 6,000K bulb. Regardless what you put with the 6,000K it is giving more output in lums that the other bulbs you have and its output puts out a lot of yellow compared to many other bulbs.

So basicly you have a choice to either replace it with a 10,000K that has less yellow, however going that way your corals will have less light in the longer wave lenghts that they also need.

The other option would be adding more bulbs in the 14,000K or higher part of the spectrum to drown out the yellow as it appears to the eye. Remember though that in most cases the higher the K rating the less real output your getting out of the bulb.

Dennis

Originally posted by flaco626nj



this is what i got front to back
ati pure actinic
d d actinic plus
d d actinic plus
d d midday 6000k
d d aquablue +
d d pure actinic
still seem to have a yellow look to it any suggestions

[flaco626nj]

WELL MY CONCERN IS REALLY TO GET ENOUGH LIGHT TO MY SPS CORALS WHICH IS WHAT I HAVE MOST OF ABOUT 20 DIFFERENT CORALS ..BUT I SEE THAT ALOT OF PEOPLE ON HERE HAVE GREAT LOOKING CORALS AND VERY NICE COLORS EVEN WITH ONLY A 4 BULB SET UP

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by flaco626nj
hey grim how what would you suggest for a six bulb front and back on workhorse 5 with icecap reflectors and 4 in the middle on 1cecap 660 with ice cap reflectors 48 inch retrokit...looking for the color pop and par for sps ....also can you name manufactor of bulb i dont get the lingo thanks
victor


this is what i got front to back
ati pure actinic
d d actinic plus
d d actinic plus
d d midday 6000k
d d aquablue +
d d pure actinic
still seem to have a yellow look to it any suggestions

How old are the lamps and have you been using fans to keep the lamps from over heating? With that mix of lamps you should be seeing a very blue look. Sounds to me like your lamps have had it.

If you arent running fans you need to add a couple. One blowing in from the rear at each side so the air blows down the endcaps ate each end of the lamps works best.

For lamps try this

Front
UVL Super Actinic
ATI Blue Plus
UVL Aquasun
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aquablue
ATI Blue Plus

That will have a lot of PAR and look blue, like a strong 14K halide lamp.

[flaco626nj]

thank you and yes all the bulbs are brand new i use fans to cool them off at the ends as well the only bulb that is old is the ati actinic one and its only 4 months old

[The Grim Reefer]

Try moving the Midday one position forward so there's an actinic Plus in front and behind it. If you think that mix looks Yellow pull the Midday and add another Aquablue. Everyone see's color a little differently. You should have someone else look at your tank and give you an opinion. It could be one of two things, A problem with one of the ballasts or your partially colorblind and don't see blue very well. I just have a hard time seeing how that can possibly have a yellow look to it with those lamps. I assume you only see the yellow when the Ice Cap is running?

Sorry bout making you come to another thread but as you can see I have my hands full here

[flaco626nj]

yeah i see that ..no prob i actually see colors farely well is the prob i use to do photgraphy and have to print out pics all day and match a perfect color lol but im going to try a ge 6500k in its place the bulbs are only a few days old so i think they need to burn in too ill keep you posted ....on a side not what would you think the par would be if i took out the 6000kk for the aquablueplus be ..cause i have another im thinking of taking back for another actinic ...also thought of taking out the aquablue plus and just have the midday as the only bulb that isnt actinic

[Chevrontang25]

Hi,

I am new to T-5 but would four 54 watt fixture be enough to house SPS in my 55 gallon tank? Also what is a good fixture for me to get for my 55? I am not looking to spend a ton either. let me know

Thanks

[flaco626nj]

something like this

[flaco626nj]

sorry for all the questions i just would like a nice color pattern to and not have to buy six new bulbs lol just with what i have .......or how about this i have two aquablue plus bulbs two actinic plus bulbs one midday and one pure actinic all by geisman,and one ati actinic .....how would you set them up for best color take out bulbs you wont use ...i dont want too much blue cause it tends to look greyed out but i dont want the **** yellow look thanks again victor

[Apercula]

I have a 75g currently running 2x 175w 10k mh, and Id like to add a couple T-5s to supplement. Im in the process of building a canopy and my plan is to put the mh so that the moguls are at the ends with bulbs pointing toward each other, then add 2 36in t5 fixtures overlapping each other in the middle, with the t5s being more of an actinic color.

A quick Paint drawing of my plan:


My questions are, should I put the t5s toward the front of the tank or the halides?, rock stack is more back/middle, deepwater front. Should I use a daylight t5 or actinics? and is the overlapping of the t5 fixtures a good idea or should I center them, or if it will fit should I go with 48in t5s?

Intentions are to run t5s 12hrs per day and halides 8hrs with 2hrs morning and evening with t5s on and halides off, I also have 3 blue moonlight leds to run opposite time of daylight bulbs.

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by flaco626nj
yeah i see that ..no prob i actually see colors farely well is the prob i use to do photgraphy and have to print out pics all day and match a perfect color lol but im going to try a ge 6500k in its place the bulbs are only a few days old so i think they need to burn in too ill keep you posted ....on a side not what would you think the par would be if i took out the 6000kk for the aquablueplus be ..cause i have another im thinking of taking back for another actinic ...also thought of taking out the aquablue plus and just have the midday as the only bulb that isnt actinic

Aquablue has more PAR than the Midday

The Pure Actinic and the Actinic Plus are different types of lamps. I personally would only run 1 Pure Actinic. The Blues have really good PAR and look nice. They Pop red and orange colors a lot better than the actinics but the actinics nail the greens.

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by Chevrontang25
Hi,

I am new to T-5 but would four 54 watt fixture be enough to house SPS in my 55 gallon tank? Also what is a good fixture for me to get for my 55? I am not looking to spend a ton either. let me know

Thanks

Tek 4x54 would be your best bet. You can keep anything in a 55 under that light. The Nova Pro would probably be OK. I am doing PAR readings on one Tomorrow so I will have a better idea.

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by flaco626nj
something like this

Do this

Front
Pure Actinic
Actinic Plus (Blue Lamp)
Midday GE or whatever sun or daylight lamp
Actinic Plus
Aquablue
Pure Actinic but I would change to Actinic Plus (Blue Lamp)

By adding an actinic plus to the back your dusk/dawn will be one actinic and one blue. Trust me you will like that look. If you are into photography you should understand color rendering. I like the UVL Aquasun lamp because it has more red in the output, sorta looks orange/pink. If you want to bring out pink or purple colors that will do it a little better than a GE but before you buy another lamp try moving that midday between the actinic plus lamps and see if that gets you what you want/

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by Apercula
I have a 75g currently running 2x 175w 10k mh, and Id like to add a couple T-5s to supplement. Im in the process of building a canopy and my plan is to put the mh so that the moguls are at the ends with bulbs pointing toward each other, then add 2 36in t5 fixtures overlapping each other in the middle, with the t5s being more of an actinic color.

A quick Paint drawing of my plan:


My questions are, should I put the t5s toward the front of the tank or the halides?, rock stack is more back/middle, deepwater front. Should I use a daylight t5 or actinics? and is the overlapping of the t5 fixtures a good idea or should I center them, or if it will fit should I go with 48in t5s?


Intentions are to run t5s 12hrs per day and halides 8hrs with 2hrs morning and evening with t5s on and halides off, I also have 3 blue moonlight leds to run opposite time of daylight bulbs.

48" T5's are slightly less than 48" with the end caps installed. I think its 47 1/2 or so, The lamps themselves are only 44.5" long.
I would center the halides, run a 54 watt UVL Super Actinic in front of the halides and a 54 watt ATI blue Plus behind. If the SA isn't enought to wash any yellow from the halides out being in front just swap the positions with the blue plus. Generally its better to keep the actinic lamp in the front if you can.

[flyguy7150]

Heres some actinic pics..., I love this uvl super actinic way better than pc actinics....way better
Actinic +
Super Actinic


Theres more actinic shots in my build thread, the red house

[flaco626nj]

grim your saying that a 11k lamp has more par then a 6k lamp?but wont the midday hit the bottom of the tank better then the ab+....i use to run mh with ushio 20k and my par was 1700 at the top but towards the bottom it was only 200 ...so there was a significant amount of drop in par cause of the higher kelvin ....will this happen with the two bulbs.....the reason i switched to t5 is cause you get better colorations and beter over all spread i didnt care about loosing the bragging points for my par being so hight at the top ...cause i dont have corals that hight lol and i think that t5 will give me the par im looking for alot better and more evenly

[flaco626nj]

ok i was running 2 reef optix lll pendents on a dual 250 electronic ballast .....4 inces above the surface of the water ...and two 54w t5 actinc +..oh and 250 watt 20k hqi bulb .......see the great drop it par

[angieg1123]

Would T5's penetrate to the bottom of a 36" deep tank? (1 inch sandbed) The 36" fixture does NOT have individual reflectors This is a seahorse tank so there will only be softies in it. I've been trying to figure out which lights to put on this tank. I'm more of a MH kinda gal....too bad they are too bright for my seahorses.

Thank you.
Angie

[The Grim Reefer]

Originally posted by flaco626nj
grim your saying that a 11k lamp has more par then a 6k lamp?but wont the midday hit the bottom of the tank better then the ab+....i use to run mh with ushio 20k and my par was 1700 at the top but towards the bottom it was only 200 ...so there was a significant amount of drop in par cause of the higher kelvin ....will this happen with the two bulbs.....the reason i switched to t5 is cause you get better colorations and beter over all spread i didnt care about loosing the bragging points for my par being so hight at the top ...cause i dont have corals that hight lol and i think that t5 will give me the par im looking for alot better and more evenly

The Blue T5's have nearly as much PAR as the Aquablues. The Aquablue is a nearly white light. Anyway Blue Light actually penetrates the water better than the other wavelengths. Unlike the T5's Blue Halides has signifigantly lower PAR than the whiter lamps./