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  #1  
Old 11/15/2006, 05:18 PM
Ebmorri Ebmorri is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Littleton, CO
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RO/DI users in cold areas.

I’m having an issues with my RO/DI production due to cold water. If I use a saddle valve connection on my cold water as an input the water is Cold (55 degrees) and I get little or no good water. If I connect it via faucet and adjust the water temp to around 78 degrees everything is good. For those of you that have tapped into you cold water supply how do you heat your water up enough to produce good water? I have tried the tip on Melevresf and the water is just too cold to heat it up that much. I have two thoughts let me know what you think.
1) connect a saddle valve to my hot water and then 25’ of hose and let the room cool it, but will it cool it low enough?
2) Connect to the cold supply and again use 25’ of hose and heat with room temp.

Any other ideas?


Thanks
Erick
  #2  
Old 11/15/2006, 06:15 PM
Tbduval Tbduval is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Orlando, Fl
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I know it gets a lot colder in the CO then here in the FL but what i do on cold days here is..... I run a 100ft of black house in the yard and let the sun beat down on it. The length of tube and plus it being black warms the water up nicely. By the time it gets to my RO/DI it is nice and warm. I don't know if that would work there but it is a suggestion...maybe. Good luck!
  #3  
Old 11/15/2006, 06:44 PM
adova adova is offline
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I should have about the same temp since I have teh same setup, but I have no problems with production. In fact, I am making more water than ever since I move from FL.

Perhaps it is the unit and not the cold....

Shawn
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  #4  
Old 11/15/2006, 08:09 PM
murfman murfman is offline
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I used to have mine set up on the garage and it ran off of the yard sprinkler supply line. I have had no issues with water production. My TDS is still 0.
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  #5  
Old 11/16/2006, 05:39 PM
wantsalotta wantsalotta is offline
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Perhaps your higher production is from the increased pressure of both water supply valves being open?
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  #6  
Old 11/16/2006, 06:17 PM
Ebmorri Ebmorri is offline
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Location: Littleton, CO
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Quote:
Originally posted by wantsalotta
Perhaps your higher production is from the increased pressure of both water supply valves being open?
Yes they are both one, however I get good production via the cold water tap on warm/hot days when the incoming water is warmer.

adova What is the temp on your cold water? Thinking that your pipes might be deeper since you livin in a new house. My place is 60's or 70's not sure if the code were the same with water, I know that they are running the ground on the neutral for power here?

Thanks
Erick
  #7  
Old 11/16/2006, 07:24 PM
Mr.Lizard Mr.Lizard is offline
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I'm under the impression that you should run cold water only through your RO/DI....I then put it in a stainless steel pot on the stove and heat it up to tank temp before adding it.
I plan to build an auto-topoff system when I upgrade my tank size, but for now I do it manually. It seems to me that the auto system wouldn't add enough water directly to the tank at any one time to be a problem.
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  #8  
Old 11/16/2006, 08:13 PM
Mr.Biggs Mr.Biggs is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: WY
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cold water ro production

When I lived in Minnesota the water coming into the house was 45 F.
RO water production would shut down at this temp.

All I would get was water running out the waste line and nothing coming out the production side.

Things you could do to increase production.

Based on your post you would not mind tapping into the hot water.

I would tap into both hot and cold water lines with 1/4" hose.

run a short line of a foot or less from each tap into a T and run a long line out the other side of the T. Use the tap valves and adjust the temp to 78F coming out of the long line and attach that to the ro unit.

You will have to adjust the cold water valve with a change in incoming cold water temp.

or

take a 5gal bucket fill it with water put 200' of 1/4" line in it,a power head and 4 250W heaters. Max the temp settings on the heaters. One end of the line to the cold water other to the ro.

hope this helps.
  #9  
Old 11/17/2006, 08:33 PM
Ebmorri Ebmorri is offline
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Location: Littleton, CO
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Thanks MR. Biggs just tapped the hot water and did what you said and it's running great. Have it on a autotop off and will keep checking it to make sure it's ok. I thought of both thinks but never thought to do them both together.

Thanks Again
Erick
  #10  
Old 11/17/2006, 09:58 PM
Thefilterguys Thefilterguys is offline
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As another Minnesota cold water person you have more or less made what we call a mixer valve. Just a word of caution use great care as temps over 100 degrees will melt the membrane. If you can keep your mixer at high 60's to high 70's you'll have great production. This is the way I run my system both summer and winter.

Jim
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  #11  
Old 11/17/2006, 10:26 PM
adova adova is offline
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Location: Denver, CO
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Sorry to answer the post so late - I think the water comming out of the RODI is in the low 60's....
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  #12  
Old 11/21/2006, 01:57 PM
undersealee undersealee is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Leadville,CO
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I am runnig my air,water,ice son of a gun in Leadville Colorado off of a well. I mean to tell ya this stuff is freezing cold coming out the tap. My production is crap, but I get 0 PPM everytime. I think it takes about 45 min./gal. I hadn't ever though of using the hot water. Some of them ideas seem like dandys. Hey a little planning ahead and that aquarium could be full by christmas. 3 degrees this morning. Word.
-LEE
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  #13  
Old 11/21/2006, 04:16 PM
Ebmorri Ebmorri is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 389
The mixer valve idea works great for me.

Thanks Everyone again
Erick
 


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