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#1
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problems with QT tank
After my QT tank cycled i added 2 fishes and in about 3 days the Ammonia and nitrites raised . i started changing the water and replacing it from my main tank. Ever since im still doing the same every time i add some fish. is this normal?
QT= 10 gals,air pump with sponge filter,heater and pvc pipes.
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We are the minority dude, but we are a proud species! (Scuba Divers 4 life). |
#2
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do you leave your QT up and running always. I would add some live rock that you do not plan on ever putting in your display tank. I will help keep your amomonia down. Also you might look into a little bit bigger qt tank. It depends on the size of the fish and how many you put in at one time. If you are putting a couple in at one time with that small of a tank your ammonia will rise quickly. Just keep doing what your doing and maintain water changes and you should be ok
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#3
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YOu have to change your filters and do 10% water changes very often. Run some carbon in the filter, also: this reduces ammonia rapidly. And watch overfeeding: fish will not die of starvation in qt, but they can die of bad water. Personally I recommend a completely bare tank with no rock, no sand, except a small dish of sand for a jawfish or wrasse. Keep it scrupulously clean. Do not try to cycle it---just keep changing the filters and running carbon.
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Sk8r "Make haste slowly." ---Augustus. "If anything CAN go wrong, it will, and at the worst possible moment."---St. Murphy. |
#4
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I use a 29 gallon with a small hang on the back filter. I fill the filter catrige sacks with crushed coral form an active tank along with a few pieces of seeded lava rock. I also run carbon in the filter box. No ammonia issues. Water changes of 3 gallons or so twice a week are working fine. I test for it every few days then back off to every week. I also have an ammonia alert badge in the tank.
You don't need to worry about nitrite or nitrates in a fish only quarantine tank. Neither are harmfull to fish in a marine environment accept at extraordinary levels. The chlorides in the salt water detoxify them significantly.
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Tom |
#5
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Thanks guys i will keep doing the water changes. And going to add a sock with carbon.
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We are the minority dude, but we are a proud species! (Scuba Divers 4 life). |
#6
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I had a 10 gallon Q tank with 1 aquaclear with bioballs and carbon and a sponge that I frequesntly changed with one that has been in the main tank for a few days. in addition to a Millenium wet dry filter that also has an insert for sponge and carbon which is meant to handle a marine tank of up to 25 gallons and I always struggled with ammonia and nitrites levels. I guess treatment always messes up the bacteria in your filter somehow. finally I resorted to addinga sand bed to the Q tank and always keeping the carbon in. i know both are supposed to suck the medication you use so I modified my treatment techniques:
Use hyposalinity instead of copper. when medicating with AB i used Nitrofuranion as it is supposed to affect the filter bacteria less than others. Also If the fish was not eating I would take it out of the Q tank 2-3 times every day and put it in water that has the AB mixed in it for 10-15 min then return the fish without the water to the Q tank. I mostly used the Q tank as introduction tank and not always you will have to medicate when introducing a fish so why not have a real tank (sand, rocks and filtration) for mild cases of disease and new fish introduction, as perrfect water quality and a natural environment can cure minor affections without need of treatment and in hard cases then resort to another Bare bottom Q tank. |
#7
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thanks maroun.c for the information.
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We are the minority dude, but we are a proud species! (Scuba Divers 4 life). |
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