Snailman's Skimmer Design 101 - Good? - Page 2

scotmol · #26 03/08/2004, 12:00 AM

Mindy,

You're welcome.

The output on the skimmer is the same as any other skimmer, that is water goes in and water goes out. It's just that with a "counter current" skimmer you want the water coming in at the top and exiting the bottom (as opposed to other skimmers which have water flowing bottom to top). This maximizes the contact time between the air and water. It's still possible to over flow the skimmer. If you have too high a water flow going in, or too much air, the output plumbing may not be able to handle it and you will over flow. However, if you set up the waste collector similar to mine that over flow will return to the sump. Did that answer the question?

I'm sorry if my explanations are unclear, I'm no expert when it comes to skimmers (or anything else in this hobby for that matter). If I've only confused you more, "Snailman" was kind enough to answer some of my questions via email when I was building my skimmer, so you might give that a try. Let me know if I can be of any other help.

Regards,

Scott

Myka · #27 03/08/2004, 02:15 PM

Oh, I'm glad you mentioned that your skimmer isn't counter current. I was assuming it was. Other than that, your waste collector works like I thought it did. Very smart...thanks for the explanation.

Mindy

scotmol · #28 03/08/2004, 06:04 PM

Mindy,

Not sure where I confused you but my skimmer IS Counter Current. Same basic design as the Snailman Skimmer.

Scott

Myka · #29 03/09/2004, 01:45 PM

I think I need to take a break from "studying" reefs...

Mindy

sfsuphysics · #30 03/13/2004, 10:26 AM

Ok I'm REAAAAALLY needing to pull off a DIY skimmer this weekend and I'm a tad confused about a few things. So I'll aim this at those of you who built the skimmer, Captive, Scot, et.al.

First thing is size, I know that page mentions 4 foot tall, but my question is why? Does this truely make a good skimmer? If so why are absolutely none of the skimmers you buy very tall?

Second, Collection cup, the smaller bought skimmer I have has a tapered inner cylinder which the bubbles go up unto the collection cup, is that really neccessary? Or would any ol' tubing work as long as its smaller than the main tube?

Third, in/outflows, I'd like to make a counter current design so put the in at the top, and the out at the bottom, but I'm curious is there a set distance from the bottom & top that should be maintained? I know that to get maximum usage it should be as close to the ends as possible, but I was thinking of using a T joint so I dont have to worry about drilling a hole and making sure its sealed up.

Fourth, How do you make the smaller pipe at the top fit? Obviously if you had a 4" wide skimmer using reducers would not look cool because you could only reduce about an inch at a time, so I'm curious if its as simple as capping the end, and drilling a hole in and ramming a small piece of 1/2" down there for the skinny tube of the collection cup.

Finally, *whew* How do you deal with the air stones? Do you put them in from the top (for easy changing) and run the tubes the length of the skimmer, or do you try to drill the bottom and slide the tubing in that way (which seems like you'd never get the airstone out unless you unscrewed the bottom.

Thanks for all your timely replies *hint hint*

scotmol · #31 03/13/2004, 12:45 PM

sfsu,

I'm pretty sure most of your questions can be answered between these two links. The first is all about the theory of the CC skimmer and the second are the plans for the Snailman skimmer.

I'd try to answer all your questions myself but I'm no expert. If you still have any questions let me know.

Scott

http://www.hawkfish.org/snailman/skimmer101.htm

http://www.hawkfish.org/snailman/diy4inskimmer.htm

sfsuphysics · #32 03/13/2004, 08:21 PM

Well after travelling to home depot & lowes today to find various fittings, I bought a bunch of elbows and a couple 2" to 3/4" Ts & a couple end caps it ended up costing me $12, went to lowes, they didn't have anything new I could use, went to the Home Depot PRO shop needed to get a 4" to 2" piece, which they only had in a rubber form, $6.50 each, so figured 2 of those, plus they only sell pipe in 10 foot length, 4" pvc doesn't fit in the rubber gasket (but 2" will) so would of had to have gotten ABS which would of cost me $13 for a 10' length, then a 10' of 2" just to get a couple inches worth to make my connectors work would of cost $5, then some 3/4" 10' section would of cost me 69 cents.. so doing the math in my head figure a homemade skimmer would of cost about $45. Well needless to say I didn't get one, instead hopped on ebay found one of those JB180 skimmers, lots of people like them, it'll handle 180G (more than I need), its H.O.T. but I can hide that in a sump with powerhead, with shipping ended up costing $40. Needless to say I'm taking the pieces I bought back to homedepot first chance I get.

Thanks for the help though.

xian · #33 02/14/2005, 07:35 PM

How long does this skimmer take to break in or "slime-up"?

I'm running 4,3 inch, corallife, wooden airstones on a Tetra AP200

Also I'm using a rio 2100 powerhead that used to run my old sealife systems cocurrent venturi skimmer. What do you think? Overkill?

Mr Bojangles · #34 02/14/2005, 10:20 PM

a MJ 2100 is prob overkill, Im using a 900 ad that is also feeding a phosban reactor. and it will prob take a week or to for it to slime up. Here is a pic of mine and I have had it for 2 years and love it. The white pipe is the return to the sump so mine is CC

Oh if you can make a waste colector that will shut the skimmer off, I made one, but dont have a pic since CC skimmer, but I do have a link for it

http://www.dfwmas.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard/ikonboard.cgi?;act=ST;f=1;t=6154