Lunchbucket's New 58gal RR inprogress - LOTS OF PICS - Page 7

melev · #**151** 05/26/2004, 09:32 PM

lunchbucket,

You should run a fan on your sump. This will reduce how often your chiller will run.

Lunchbucket · #**152** 05/27/2004, 12:38 AM

MacnReef - nah don't think it will be that bad

i thought it ran 216watts???

tor101898 - haven't decided yet. and yes it id the md 30x

melev - i have 2 x 4" radioshack fans that run when the halide is on.

Lunchbucket

fahz · #**153** 05/27/2004, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Lunchbucket
i'm usign a 1/10HP Pacific Coast Imports chiller. it is AWESOME, affordible and QUIET!!!

i actually just changed the controller yesterday to the 2degree model. when i bought it there was ONLY a 4degree (2degree C) swing on the controller. They sent me a 2degree controller when they got them in and i JUST switched it out yesterday after 6PLUS months.

now my chiller does this

on at 82 degree
runs for ~7min.
off at 80degree
off for ~10min
on at 82 degree

it cycles like that. seems like on and off a LOT if you ask me!!

does that seem right for a 2degree swing? on and off that much???

later
Lunchbucket

Man Lunchbucket you have some major heat going on. I have a 1/4 Arctcia on my 58 Oceanic and it runs 3 or 4 times a day when its hot out. Sounds like you need a fair size fan on your sump or blowing across the surface of your main tank to get rid of the MH heat.

Fahz

asmujica · #**154** 05/27/2004, 01:40 AM

MMM, I should stop reading this thread about now, if not I may end up purchasing a chiller, a calcium reactor, an oceansmotion and tear down the tank to install a closed loop.

staticfishmonger · #**155** 05/27/2004, 03:24 AM

the more fans the merrier. i have 4 radio shack fans in the hood running with the lights. and two fans under the stand one pointed across the sump the other across the refugium. it can be 85 in my room and still be a cool 79-80 in the tank. however i do evap about 3 gallons a day but thats ok. i just hope it works out when i start dripping limewater. im thinking i will have to still add ro water as well as 3 gallons of limewater a day may be a little much.

JB NY · #**156** 05/27/2004, 08:27 AM

Hey Lunch, I agree with you on the chiller cycling too much. I had some discussion with a refrigeration guy about chillers once. I was told you do not want the compressor to cycle on and off quickly like that, it will cause early failure of the compressor. They are meant to be run for a while then turn off (Aqualogic recommends a minimum of 20 minutes it should run). FWIW My 1/3 HP take 40-50 minutes to drop the temp on my tank 1.2d then about 60 minutes before it raises again on a hot day. I would think the temperature probe for the chiller is being affected by the cold water from the chiller. I'd put another temp monitor at the point furthest from the chiller output, and watch the temp and see if you get the same readings.

Lunchbucket · #**157** 05/27/2004, 08:43 AM

fahz - it was cycling like that AFTER the lights were off last night too!! i mean the apt was HOT because the fiancee left the screen door closed but it would do the same thing!! i wouldn't think my equiment would heat it up THAT fast??? and iwaki and a mag 950 shouldn't heat the water that fast!!

staticfishmonger - yeah fans are nice but a PITA sometimes too

JB NY - that is what i was thinking about...the compressor running on and off too much

so should i put the old controller back on?? it worked fine (kept my temp w/in 2-3 degrees) or should it up the tolerance on the one now. i have it set at 2degrees variance...should i up it to 3 degrees so it will run longer and be off longer??

the chiller is NOT running a bit now. the screen was open last night and it is fairly cool in the apt.

any suggestions??
Lunchbucket

Lunchbucket · #**158** 05/27/2004, 08:46 AM

the funny thing is the digital big temp (a similar unit from walmart) NEVER moves more than like .2 degrees when the chiller says it moves like 2 degrees??? the chiller will turn on at 82 and off at 80 but that digital thermo won't budge pretty much...and my dual temp controller doesn't move either.

Lunchbucket

JB NY · #**159** 05/27/2004, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Lunchbucket
the funny thing is the digital big temp (a similar unit from walmart) NEVER moves more than like .2 degrees when the chiller says it moves like 2 degrees??? the chiller will turn on at 82 and off at 80 but that digital thermo won't budge pretty much...and my dual temp controller doesn't move either.

Lunchbucket

I'd say there is something wrong with the chiller temp then. Your other temp montors should jive with the chiller one. I have two other temp montors on my tank they are all within .2d of each other, always. I find temp gages to have a tendancy to drift, so I like making sure what I'm readin is correct.

fahz · #**160** 05/27/2004, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Lunchbucket
the funny thing is the digital big temp (a similar unit from walmart) NEVER moves more than like .2 degrees when the chiller says it moves like 2 degrees??? the chiller will turn on at 82 and off at 80 but that digital thermo won't budge pretty much...and my dual temp controller doesn't move either.

Lunchbucket

OK Lunch the rest of the story as Paul Harvey would say. My big temp moves right in step with my chiller temp gauge. Sounds like somethings not right with the new controller. Go to three degrees or back to the old controller would be my guess. The price was right on the North Coast Chillers but I was told to many small problems were popping up so Reef Geek recommended Arctica instead and couldn't be happier.

Fahz

Travis · #**161** 05/27/2004, 10:56 AM

Lunch, where is your chiller input and output? Also, where is your temp controller probe?

Lunchbucket · #**162** 05/27/2004, 06:50 PM

JB NY - yeah on the 4 degree they used to jive out well. i have a lab grad thermometer and am checking it.

i upped the tolerance to 3 degree swing. and lowered the set point so it won't get too hot. it took VERY VERY little time to get from 82-80 but now getting below 80 (on the chiller temp gauge) is taking FOREVER!!!

fahz - yeah i hear you..it is a Pacific coast chiller...not a north coast

Travis - input comes from the sump chamber (middle of the sump) and the output goes to the right side of the sump/ return chamber. they are COMPLETLY seperate and the water has to go from the return pump into the tank and then back down to the sump before it will get into the chiller again

the temp probe is inline in the chiller somewhere...probably inlet side

i think i need to see if i can get a new controller!!

thanks everyone!
Lunchbucket

fahz · #**163** 05/27/2004, 08:45 PM

fahz - yeah i hear you..it is a Pacific coast chiller...not a north coast

Ya that one. I'm running a mag 9.5 inline on my chiller and figure I'm getting about 450 GPH return. I would say your controller is no good can you put the old one back in so you know it not the chiller itself.

Fahz

Travis · #**164** 05/28/2004, 12:30 AM

I agree, sounds like a bad controller.

Lunchbucket · #**165** 05/28/2004, 08:38 AM

i emailed them had HOPE they will send me one asap!!

it is working...just not completly right...i don't have time to switch it out till tonight LATE...and it should chill ok...so i guess it has to stay till tonight

Lunchbucket

fahz · #**166** 05/28/2004, 10:32 AM

This must be why were into reefing so we always have something to fix and the DIY projects are good for the mind.

Fahz

Lunchbucket · #**167** 05/29/2004, 07:18 AM

ok, just got to check my email last night (friday) at about 10pm CST...go figure i got TWO emails from TWO different people at PCI (pacific coast imports) and they stated call me m-f 9-5 PST...and they stated that the problem is NOT w/ the controller. one guy said it might be water flow issues...hmm ok never had a problem before but now that i figure it out i am prolly running way less than i should. i emailed them back and said if for some reason they are around and could call me today (saturday) or the rest of the weekend that would rock!!

otherwise here is MY plan.
cut the return line from my mag950 that is plumbed straight to the tank and run the return into the chiller then out of the chiller, then up through the overflow!! i will be running about 520-580 MAX flow through the chiller then and it is recommended 600gph MAX. this will alow me to take out one powerhead in the sump, run MORE flow (that i should have) throught the chiller, and hopefully solve some problems.

this will be nice because the water has to go all the way through the tank and back into the sump before it will get sucked up by the return pump and put back into the chiller. should give me a very accurate reading of REAL time temp on the tank.

this should be easy. should only need two 3/4" female adapters, two 3/4 MPT x 1/2" hose barb, and two more hose clamps. i have enough hose (stuff i am using). i could hard plumb it or use flex pvc more but i think it will get in the way more than i want!

i don't konw why i didn't plumb it like this in the first place....oh yeah i do...i thought i was running over 600gph through the return plumbing and didn't want ot max flow the chiller...live and learn i guess

any comments??
Lunchbucket

niteshado · #**168** 05/29/2004, 10:11 AM

Sounds lke a god way to go. Hope PSI calls today. keep us updated.

Larry

fahz · #**169** 05/29/2004, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Lunchbucket
otherwise here is MY plan.
cut the return line from my mag950 that is plumbed straight to the tank and run the return into the chiller then out of the chiller, then up through the overflow!! i will be running about 520-580 MAX flow through the chiller then and it is recommended 600gph MAX. this will alow me to take out one powerhead in the sump, run MORE flow (that i should have) throught the chiller, and hopefully solve some problems.

this will be nice because the water has to go all the way through the tank and back into the sump before it will get sucked up by the return pump and put back into the chiller. should give me a very accurate reading of REAL time temp on the tank.

this should be easy. should only need two 3/4" female adapters, two 3/4 MPT x 1/2" hose barb, and two more hose clamps. i have enough hose (stuff i am using). i could hard plumb it or use flex pvc more but i think it will get in the way more than i want!

i don't konw why i didn't plumb it like this in the first place....oh yeah i do...i thought i was running over 600gph through the return plumbing and didn't want ot max flow the chiller...live and learn i guess

any comments??
Lunchbucket

Lunch i guess i just figured that the way you had it. Thats the way I run mine on my Mag 9.5 and it works great I figure I lose about 500 GPH but it still gives 450 GPH from my sump. I'm using black 3/4 tubing to have the least amount of friction loss and no algae growth.
Are you just running the water through the chiller and back into the sump now?

Fahz

Lunchbucket · #**170** 05/29/2004, 05:28 PM

fahz - nope had a maxijet 1200 feeding it on the left side of the sump and dumping into the right side (its own chamber so no cool water mixing w/ the chamber that has the chiller feed pump)

i just bought the stuff to do it the way you have it...and i got 1/2" vinyl tuing...they didn't have any 3/4" black. i have 1/2" clear on there now. but i have a problem!!! the tube was from close to the inside of teh spool and is PRETTY flat! how can i get it back to normal??

i think i am just gonna do the mod w/ the clear for now. and maybe try to find some 3/4" vinyl or get the black to round out. i thought about 3/4" spa flex but it woudl be SPENDY and it isn't as flexible as the vinyl!

i'm off to do it.

please post suggetions on how to straighten out the tub. also i won't how much i will loose using 1/2"...i actually kind of NEED to slow the flow...i am getting too much flow through my sump and getting TOO many micro bubbles.

clear vinyl mod here i come

Lunchbucket

melev · #**171** 05/29/2004, 05:39 PM

Put it in the oven at 200F for 5 minutes, of the sun if it is a warm day. It should return to its original shape then.

Btw, 1.5" plumbing is what you are supposed to use on your Mag 9.5 to get maximum flow. 3/4" is majorly restrictive.

Lunchbucket · #**172** 05/29/2004, 06:05 PM

melev - thanks for the tip!!! you just put it on a cookie sheet??

1.5" LOL sorry not gonna happen. 3/4 is PLENTY for me...i really don't care if i restrict it....actually i NEED it restricted

have all the pipe cut and glued...just waiting to dry. think 1hr would be enough to put it back together and start it up??

Lunchbucket

melev · #**173** 05/29/2004, 07:43 PM

No cookie sheet, just on the racks. Remember, just enough time to soften it, not cook it!

1 hour is probably sufficient, but you could wait half a day if you want to be absolutely certain. I would also run some water through the pipes (garden hose outside) to rinse away any residue. This keeps your skimmer from going nuts.

Lunchbucket · #**174** 05/29/2004, 08:15 PM

i left it in for like 3 min...worked PERFECT...on the rack too

well got it all hooked up and DANG...i limited the pump a TON!! it is WAY slower than before. i guess that is kind of good considering i was having LOTS of micro bubble problems and now i am NOT.

i don't know how much flow i am running though. what would you think a mag 950 would cut down to??

i calculated it w/ .75 (the lowest that RC has and i got 517gph...anyone know what 1/2 would cut it down to?? it SHOULD be more than the maxijet 1200 w/ the 1/2" hose wouldn't you think??? so i should be running AT LEAST 350gph ++ shouldn't i??

thanks talk to you all soon
Lunchbucket

Lunchbucket · #**175** 05/29/2004, 08:56 PM

well now that i had more backpressure on my return (which is also my ca reactor feed) i started to leak out of my Ca reactor

so now i am drying out the stand a little...using some extra glue in a few places and tightening the flanges...lot of work for a LITTLE project

and i am getting STRESSED!!

Lunchbucket