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uv... effectiveness?
added one a week ago. algae is the same, ich is still trying to kill my fish(I know it's not a cure, but have heard others that have had success), water looks the same (although it was clear to begin with). Do they take a while to work?
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#2
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What wattage on what tank?
And What is the flow rate through the unit? ~Steve~
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"Sharks are naturally peaceful." "How'd you get that nasty cut anyway?" "A shark bit me." Jack of all trades, and master of none. ~Steve~ |
#3
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Coral life turbo twist 9w, 160gph. (I know it's small in the opinion of many, but cost was an issue, so I went with the manufacturers recommendation) I do have a bit of a ghetto recirc mod as the input is near the output of the sump, and outputs where the tank water enters the sump. (so a percentage of the water in the sump goes through the uv twice before heading back to the tank) -further, the skimmer also gets the recirc. Should make more efficient no?
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#4
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bump
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#5
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bump ...anyone?
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#6
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I think the only time you will notice the change visually is when you have green water ( free floating algae ). I know for a fact that UV sterilizes water because back packers, campers, military etc etc use UV to sterilize water even thought it may not be the only means used.
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#7
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From what I've been reading the reason most people find them ineffective is because they undersize them. I have a 210 and the recommended by the "experts" for me would be 40w unit minimum. IMO a 9w unit is a waste of money, but that's why I don't have one yet cause there so expensive.
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#8
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It's best to have prefiltered water go through the UV. The cleaner the water that goes through it, the more effective it will be.
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Luck is probability taken personally. -C. Denman The plural of 'anecdote' is not 'data'. Support Intelligunt Desine! I want to get a bunch of Hermit crabs and force them to live with each other. |
#9
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#10
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I have a coralife turbo twist 18w and now I love it. I was also having trouble with parasites and at first had no luck and more fish were getting infected. After reading up a little I found out that for a 18w unit you need 110 gph water flow, I had 230. After reducing the flow and adding a cleaner wrass my fish looked better in a day and a half. ith 4 days they all looked perfect. As for my water clarity, it might be my imagination but I think it looks clearer. EB847, I would put a T in and restrict your water flow at least in half if your pushing 160gph now.
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Lee |
#11
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my uv is located in the last stage of the sump (after filter socks and skimmer). the manufacturer recommends 100-200 gph. it's good advice to tweak and see if there are any results. thx
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#12
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#13
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#14
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I don't like UV sterilzers, from my experience they are about the most over rated piece of equipiment you could ever buy.
IME, if the fish are already sick (which is the most common scennario) then theu don't do anything. They can help clear green water, though.
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Just when I thought you couldn't be any dumber you go and do something like this....And totally redeem yourself! |
#15
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Opinions on whether the UV will do what one expects is subjective. The fact remains that the proper dose of UV WILL kill things exposed to it, from algae and bacteria to larger organisms. Scientific fact here. Not opinion. Now, whether the tank has a properly sized unit that is correctly installed is another question. Furthermore, it's efficacy on an already ich infested tank is also questionable.
Here is the best info I've read on RC about UV's in a while. http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hlight=Uv+size hth FWIW, I think 9W is doing nothing on a 125g. I used a 15w on a 55g.
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Peter Click my red house to see my tank :-) |
#16
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The 9w uv is fine as long as the water flow is within design
specifications. Installed after a mechanical filter as mentioned, also increases effectiveness. Uv's will kill "free floating" algaes, parasites, viruses, bacteria, fungus spores and just about anything that passes through the uv...key word being pass through. The problem with ich is that they live in the gills of fish and on the substrate, so you have to treat all three... -Treat the gills...copper or something less toxic if you have sensitive livestock in the tank. - a sand sifting goby to clean the substrate - the uv will clear up the rest and keep it clear Also, whenever you pick up new fish, dump the water in the over flow so it has to pass through the uv. After a couple of months or so add a poly filter pad to remove the copper/meds out of the water and you should be fine. |
#17
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#18
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If you can slow the water flow rate going through the uv it has more contact. thus being alittle more effective. you may have to run it on its own pump. the lowest you can go enough to pump the the water through.
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I have a vision, and now I am broke! |
#19
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I say if your looking for something to keep your tank clean then i would read up on Ozone.
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#20
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#21
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UV light will kill ich but it takes a huge dose. probably something the 9watt wouldnt be able to handle without the flow being too slow to counter act reproduction in the tank. at least not so you'd have instant results. if this is for the 120gallon tank i would doubt seeing results quickly if ever
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"and the delicate mechanism stripped its gears" |
#22
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I'm not denying that they don't kill what is coming through them just it is more difficult in practice to make them live up to their claims than it is on paper.
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Just when I thought you couldn't be any dumber you go and do something like this....And totally redeem yourself! |
#23
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I think the problem with UV is that too many people have over-hyped their ability. I look at UV as a useful tool for the right situation. IMO, they are not a cure for Ich or a substitute for proper QT practice. I would consider using one in conjuction with a QT tank but that's about it.
BTW, I would also lump ozone in this same category. Side note - great to see other guitarist around here.
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Kevin "You cannot achieve what you are not willing to pursue." |
#24
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