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#451
06/12/2006, 11:17 AM
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Matchbook
The man is right about rotating one door on the bottom.
It looks like if you rotate the left door, you`re matchbook look will be complete. Hopefully, as you say they`re removable, you`ve made them identical & easily rotate-able. |
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#452
06/12/2006, 05:40 PM
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Kudo's to the builder of the cabinet!! Looks like he/she did a nice job. In regards to the bookmatch work, It was probably not intentional I bet. From my experience it was just the sheet of plywood used. Like someone said earlier, its a thin sheet of veneer, which is also used in high quality plywood like oak, birch, cherry ect.
Sanjay, How did you secure the plywood to the I-beams and then how about the styrofoam to the plywood? Also did you have to shim the stand to make it totally level at all? Tony |
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#453
06/12/2006, 10:50 PM
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Well, we did try to cut the plywood so that the larger peices would have a good look to it, and the peices would kind of match, within the limitations of the sheets we had.
The nice thing about the 4" I-beam is that a 2X4 fits into the I perfectly with a tight fit. We still bolted the 2X4 to the beam, which gave is the wood surface to use for attaching the cabinet. A 2X4 was also bolted to the underside of the I, and a 2X4 was attached to the floor with tap con screws. The plywood is was not really screwed on to the beams... but is held by some adhesive we picked up at lowes. the styrofoam is glued to the plywood with the same adhesive. I dont remember the name... but I tried to pick one that I felt would not chemically react with the styrofoam over time. The one problem we ran into is that the I beams had slight roll to them after welding, and the floor was not even. When we put the tank on the stand.. the tank was perflectly level but there were some gaps between the plywood and the steel beams. So while the tank was level sitting on the stand, somehow the stand was not. When we tried to shim the stand.. the tank was no longer level and the gap was still there between the plywood and the steel. I guess the overdesigned steel stand was unable to deform with the shimming. So we went ahead and shimmed the gaps between the plywood and the steel to take care of the problem. sanjay. |
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#454
06/12/2006, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
How did you bolt the 2x4's to the beam? Did you drill a hole in the beam? TIA Dave |
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#455
06/12/2006, 11:20 PM
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Unbelievable about the stand but that's how it goes. You make this totally stout structure and it comes out not level...you must have been pulling your hair out over that one!
__________________
Jonathan--DIBS Breeder and Card carrying member of the Square Skimmer Brigade (Click on the Red House to see my pics garage) |
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#456
06/13/2006, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
sanjay. |
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#457
06/13/2006, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
 , but a couple of sleepless nights before resorting to shimming the plywood.I think it was a good thing that the bond between the glue that I used to hold the plywood in place while the tank was slid was not very strong and it came off the steel where there were gaps. So the shims are under the plywood and away from the tank. I have learnt a long time ago, in this hobby even the best laid plans have issues when implemented. sanjay. |
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#458
06/13/2006, 12:30 PM
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The only other solution would be to heat the beam but I think that would just be asking for trouble.
__________________
Jonathan--DIBS Breeder and Card carrying member of the Square Skimmer Brigade (Click on the Red House to see my pics garage) |
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#460
06/13/2006, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
sanjay |
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#461
06/13/2006, 01:15 PM
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Well if you do heat it when you fill the tank, PLEASE take video!
__________________
Jonathan--DIBS Breeder and Card carrying member of the Square Skimmer Brigade (Click on the Red House to see my pics garage) |
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#462
06/13/2006, 03:03 PM
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Looks sweet Sanjay, Please post some more pictures when you get a chance. Maybe CMAS can get another tank tour when your done.
BadBones love the Boston avatar he or she looks alot like mine. |
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#463
06/14/2006, 05:17 PM
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Check valves ? Necessary or just another costly hassle ?
I will drill the returns close to the water line to break the siphon. But stuff can grow and clog the hole over time if not kept open. But as a back up, I was thinking of using the Wye Check valves (ones that can be cleaned). But this creates, a farily long connection with the union ball valve, check valve, a tee that I was planning on using to divert some water to the carbon and phosphate reactors. I know this will not fit under the tank in the vertical position. I do not know what size the Wye valve will take up. Any suggestions ? I could bag the check valve and use one of the outlets from the tee as a siphon break, as long as it stays out of the water at the highest water level in the sump. Any comments ? sanjay. |
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#464
06/14/2006, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
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#465
06/14/2006, 05:43 PM
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I'm in agreement. I've never met a check valve that was reliable over time, including the better Wye check valves. I stripped them out of my system a long time ago. In addition, regardless of the design, they all reduce the flow rate to some extent.
Siphon break holes work well; just be sure to clean them every few months. I use a round file on mine. Also, position them so that you can determine by eye that they're open and flowing water. This also makes them easier to clean. Greg |
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#466
06/14/2006, 07:47 PM
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Or, tap a 1/4" MNPT hole, thread in a 1/4" John Guest fitting, and run 1/4" PE hose into your overflow. You won't lost any flow, and if those are kept above the water level in the overflow, shooting out water into the overflow, you'll never get algae in them.
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#467
06/14/2006, 10:56 PM
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I will go against the grain and cast my vote for the check valve. I use the clear true union ones and have never had a problem with reliability. Just get 2 so when it is time to clean the one you can just swap it out with one that is already clean with minimal down time on the return loop.
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#468
06/14/2006, 11:35 PM
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I use a clear one too, but for a different purpose. I have it inline just after my return pump and I use it to gauge flow by eye. I have it on 2 unions so it can be removed easily and yes it has some brown algae in it. I just like to be able to see what is going on inside the line.
__________________
Jonathan--DIBS Breeder and Card carrying member of the Square Skimmer Brigade (Click on the Red House to see my pics garage) |
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#469
06/15/2006, 12:45 AM
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You can place an over sized flapper type of check valve on the suction side of your return pump inside the sump. By oversizing you reduce much of the restriction that one causes and by not gluing it in place you can service it easily without any trouble. I would never use a check valve to prevent any flooding problems caused by back siphoning but I do use them to stop excessive back siphoning and eliminate the subsequent splashing that occurs when the system restarts.
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Carpe carpum. |
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#471
07/06/2006, 10:10 AM
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Ok.. I am back from my trip to China and India and trying to get over the jet lag quickly so I can get back to this tank.
Time to start thinking about filling the tank with water. What would be cheaper and faster, using RO or running tap water through a DI filter. ? Big tanks make you think even about the smallest things. sanjay. |
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#473
07/07/2006, 06:38 AM
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cheaper and faster sometimes is just not the right solution, if it takes a week or so to fill by using ur RO/DI so be it, i would use RO/DI (good things come to those who wait)
__________________
"Never Give Up Never Surrender" |
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#474
07/07/2006, 07:12 AM
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I would invest in an RO/DI pump (not necessarily cheap). It significantly increases water production.
Here is one on E-bay not too expensive. http://item.express.ebay.com/__Pet-S...mdZExpressItem |
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Linear Mode
