tank-room stand: materials and paint

[RyanBrucks]

wood stand pretty much done.

thanks for the tip on 3 screws per joint. Some only have 2 right now so I will add a third. I need to make a trip to the hardware store though, since I started running low (hence my rationing of screws Also notice the very deep countersinking.... that was because I ran out of 2 1/2" screws on newyears so had to use my 1 5/8" screws, and a slightly deeper countersink

Each tank has 4 beams underneath from front to back, but after fitting the front and back frame together, 6 out of 16 of them do not line up correctly with the front without applying stress. I first assembled all of those supports onto the back of the frame, and then laid the front down on top of it while it was on the ground.

to line up the slightly off ones (which I'm guessing is from slight bowing/twisting in the long horizontal braces), should I just unscrew from the back and situate them as well as possible, or do you guys think I should miter cut pieces to exactly fit the assembled stand?

I think I will add a few more front-to-back horizontal supports to hold electrical work on the sides.


I ordered some of those lifting levelers from rockler (the ones posted in this thread are literally the ONLY ones I could find anywhere), waiting on those. Then I will screw and place long bolts going through the rear vertical supports into the wall of the garage. These holes will have a vertical slot in them so that the stand will not be applying downward pressure, it will only be to keep the stand from pulling away from the wall, as it is slightly wobbley even though its strong as hell.


Everything is taking me longer than expected, but at least its moving right along.

Ryan

[Cuby2k]

Wow, it's looking very nice, good work.

The more I look at this the more concerned I am about the lack of vertical center support in the front. It would have been stronger had you eliminated the center vertical member in the front and used continuous horizontal members.

You could help that situation by providing an angle kicker from the bottom of the center support in the front to the bottom of the one in the back. An angle brace like that adds nearly as much support as a vertical to the floor.

OR, you could just leave it the way it is and keep an eye out for a sag. I don't think you would see a catastrophic failure before you see a significant sag. When it starts to sag just pop a floor jack under it to straighten then you can add a stick.

Hey keep up the nice work. I'll keep checking back. It always fun to see someone do good work.

[cannarella]

I think his sump is going to be in the way according to the first post. He could add a post just to the right of the sump on the lowest shelf to add some support or once he gets the sump in place he can add a loose leg in the middle before he adds any weight above.

Is does look good though. I am a little concerned about the levelers that you are purchasing. I would rather see you use some spacers cut from leftover scrap. It does say that each leveler will hold 600lbs. So I guess that will work just fine. You could use the levelers and then put cut scrap under for extra security.

[RyanBrucks]

I will also cut some scrap to put under the legs. I also dont like the part about how they do not bolt to the bottom, but I think I might just drill my own holes. I bought a few extra incase i screw that up

I think I will look for a jack-post to use for the center. I was able the climb the structure without it really sagging but those tanks weigh alot more than I do. hopefully I can find one thats pretty thin and streamlined looking.

[RyanBrucks]

Hey guys,

I'd like to double check my painting plan before painting too.

I got a valspar latex primer and olympic white semigloss latex paint.

I forgot to get a polycrylic to finish it off. I actually changed my mind about the semi-gloss and I want a completely matte finish.
Polycrylic is clear right? Will it cover up the semigloss, or make it look even more shiny?

Basically, what combination should I use to get a nice white matte finish? Should I use a sprayer to get really nice clean coat without any brushstrokes?

Also, do I need to use a primer if I'm using latex underneath polycrylic, or is the latex paint basically my primer with polycrylic on top????

Thanks!
Ryan

[cannarella]

Why are you putting a clear coat over paint? I would go with 2 caots of an oil based primer for a good deep penetration. Follow up with 2 coats of latex paint. Use a bathroom type paint that can stand up to the moisture.

[RyanBrucks]

I was only going by what DB06 said:
"I think all lumber you buy now adays is kiln dried or pressure treated. Recommend stay away from pressure treated for a tank stand. Yes, paint it to protect it. Latex, in multiple coats will work and then finish it off with a polycrylic. Or, you can go with oil base and then polyurethane or spar urethane. Painting each piece before assembly is really going the extra step....I think I would just assemble and then paint. "

up until now that was the only paint advice I got.


BTW, you guys who were questioning the stability of the stand without a center front leg........ you were right.

after sitting in place in my garage for over 24 hours, with no weight but the wood itself, the center brace already sagged about 2-3mm, which was insanely obvious when I checked it with a 4 foot level. The center member is securely fastened to the top 2x4 that rests on the other verticals and I thought that would be enough.... apparently not.

For now I just cut a piece of scrap and have the center resting on it and everything is perfectly level now. I was at the hardware store tonight and completely forgot to look for a jack post... stupid me

[cannarella]

If you want total water protection use epoxy paint and thats it.

[RyanBrucks]

confused again... you first said oil based primer + 2 coats of latex, now you say epoxy paint?

whats the main difference?

[cannarella]

Epoxy paint is completely waterproof where latex even with a coat of polycrylic is not completely waterproof.

[RyanBrucks]

ah, well in that case I'll definitely get some

is a primer necessary?

[RyanBrucks]

Has anybody actually had experience using epoxy paint on wood?

I've done some searching and reading, and sources tell me that epoxy paint might not work well on wood because wood can expand and contract, making the brittle epoxy crack. I also read that you can make it more rubber-like and flexible by mixing some acetone in the paint first.

anybody know of a good place to get some?

[cannarella]

Lots of people use it in their hoods. I am going to. Once you seal the whole piece of wood it shouldn't expand or contract because you have cut it off from the moisture that does it.

[RyanBrucks]

ok I had to go to 2 sherwin williams, but found some.

they had both 2-part and 1part (precatalyzed) epoxy paint that works on basically any surface if you use an oil based primer.

I got the 1part since it will be easier and should be fine for my application. It's apparently the same stuff the new Cary swimming pool uses for their walls in the main pool room so it should be pretty resistant.

tonight I'll goto HD and pick up some of the 'greenwall' drywall.

doing the drywall is going to be a PITA, because the existing drywall in my garage is HORRIBLY bowed (up to 2"). I almost considred ripping it out and redoing it, but that would just be making needless work. gonna just have to pick up a compass and do some scribing.

Question:
anybody know the correct way to seal the drywall along my cement garage floor? I'll be doing a layer of drywall on either side of the main 2x4 supports (with insulation between). I have some handi-foam, will that do a good job of sealing the gap?

-Ryan