question of binding acrylic with Weld on??

[savethereef]

Hey guys a local reefer told me to use number 4 then 16 i dont remember if that was right or if it was 3 and then 16. Here is the link to the site. http://www.ipscorp.com/industrial/acrylics.html
I remember he told me to use a seringe to apply one off them in small amounts then use the other to put over that one.

Also do i need gloves or a mask it this stuff toxic to breath. I am planing to put in some baffels in my sump for my upcoming 180g this month thanks guys.

[wannareef1]

If I remember reading right it was #3 and then #16, I saw a post somewhere when I was doing the same thing you are, but the tank wasn't big enough so I bought a used 55g and siliconed the baffles in, but it was #3 first and then #16 over the top of the first bead, don't quote me, but that's what I remember, I'll see if I can find the thread for you.

[BigAl2007]

Why #3? I bought a HOB system and it only came with #16......

[savethereef]

i was told that either 3 or 4 it will fill in the small holes on the sides for baffels then the 16 would over coat that and make a good seal. i just dont remember if it was # 3 or the # 4 to use first

[savethereef]

BUMP FOR THE EVENING CAN SOME ONE HELP PLEASE THANKS

[wannareef1]

maybe this will help you out, it says use #4 and then #16

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/article...c_aquarium.php

good luck

[agsansoo]

I don't think they sell #3 in Calif. ... I used #4 then # 16. #3 is water thin, #16 is thicker. You don't have to use #16 if the edges are straight and smooth. And yes, you need the syringe with #4.

[Corriander]

Having done a number of acrylic projects now, use #4 out of a thin gauge needle bottle followed by #16 if there appear to be any gaps.

Ideally you should shave about 1/32" off the cut edge with a router to create a smooth surface. It is worth the effort if you have a router (and possibly worth the tool investment if you don't). This step will ensure a crystal clear and high strength bond that only requires the use of Weld-On #4.

[xtm]

#4 is water-thin and will need syringe for capillary action. Basically if your baffles are snug against the sump walls, you will "inject" #4 along the sides, making the solvent seep through the crack. This is capillary method.

I would only use #16 if there are huge gaps between the walls. #16 is somewhat difficult to use as it is very messy and runs quick.

One advice I can give you is DO NOT put tremendous amount of pressure on the joints as your baffle will show crazing after applying #16.

[savethereef]

ok thanks any one have a pictures of the needles. Can i use those plastic ones that yo give babies medicine with or can i use those orage cap ones that diabetics use?? Were can i find them thanks for all your help guys. I will be working on this, this weekend

[xtm]

I use the one that looks like an Elmers Glue bottle with a syringe. It gives you more precision compared to a regular injection type syringe. You can get this from Walgreens or any other drug store.

[Corriander]

I used to get mine from Paragon Plastic in Santa Ana. They carry the needle bottles and most of the available Weld-On products.

[weefishman]

Ya, you can pick up the bottle for a couple bucks from where you buy the weldon from, if you ask them for the bottle with the applicator needle to apply weldon they'll know what your talking about. Definitely get the bottle as it makes things much easier and gives you more control. This stuff is super thin, like rubbing alcohol, so you'll want as much control as possible. When you apply it using the bottle you'll find that despite the very thin applicator needle, you really don't need to squeeze the bottle at all. This stuff is so thin that just touching the applicator's end to the joint to be bonded will allow the weldon to flow into it.

And like the other's said, if you cut your baffles to fit snuggly into the sump, the weldon #4 will be enough to secure them in place without the extra hassle and mess of the thicker #16.

Also, as far as the difference between #3 and #4 from what the guy at the acrilic store told me, the difference is how quickly it sets up. Not sure on that but that's what he said. Hope this helps.

-Jonny

[savethereef]

yeah the baffels i cut fit snug so i guess i will try it with the #4 then ill let it dry for 2 days then ill fill up the sump and see it the water gets thru the sides if not the its cool. How fast does stuff set and dry.

What is the nearest place i can find these things at near the 91fwy and 710 in long beach.

thanks

[savethereef]

bUMP SO WHERE CAN I GET SOME AT I TRIED HOME DEPOT THEY DONT HAVE ANY

[weefishman]

It sets fairly quickly, taking maybe 15 minutes to become firm and then reaching maximum strength at 48 hours. So you'll want to have something like a book keeping pressure on the joint for at least a few hours after applying weldon. After that it will be pretty solid, but still a good idea to give it a full day or two to set 100%.

You can't get it at home depot or any hardware stores (that I've found), it's kind of a specialty thing. But try to find an acrilic or plastic shop, those will have it and generally they're smaller shops and businesses so can be a little more difficult to find. Do a search in your area for a custom acrylic or plastics shop and give them a call to make sure. The place I went to was all the way up on the 10 in culver so you probably don't want to drive all the way up there.

-Jonny

[savethereef]

ok thanks ill take that route and look on line for some local plastic shops. I am going to start my thread soon on the 180g Penninsula tank.

[xtm]

Originally posted by savethereef
bUMP SO WHERE CAN I GET SOME AT I TRIED HOME DEPOT THEY DONT HAVE ANY

http://www.mcmaster.com/


If you're willing to drive, go to Valley Plastics in the San Fernando Valley. They have EVERYTHING you need, and then some!

[clayspst]

weld-on works great.