Tube anemone - without tube

[dendro982]

Just picked the Tube Anemone (Cerianthus) from LFS. It looked fully open and very healthy in the LFS tank, but after arriving home I noticed, that it has no hard tube, soft body only, and the dense cover on the body is torn out and look like a puss at the bottom end. Removed it.

The body is quite alive. I did research more, than year ago, and generally knew, what to expect. Just didn't see absence of the tube in time.

Well, for this night it sits in plastic tube, filled by finest sand (followed information from Toonen article). Cerianthus started to open and look good again, but for how long?

What should I do tomorrow?
1. Put it in plastic tube without sand - how much free space should be between body and walls, how long should it be in relation to the body?

2. Here , pdf file, was mentioned, that it could live without own tube, in plastic or glass tube, covered inside by gelatinous substance.
I could try that, if necessary, but afraid to put it in something, that may rot.

What else?
Any ideas and experiences will be greatly appreciated.

BTW, is it really critical for it to live in tank with temperature 72-75F, with several months in winter at 68F?
It is described as a filter feeder (I'm assuming food size should be less than 200 micron), but that it should be fed by pieces of krill, shrimp or fish.

Did anybody kept them? What they really need?
Thanks.

[aninjaatemyshoe]

I had one awhile back, but I did not have good success with it. It was missing a hard tube as well, so maybe that was the issue. I also kept it in a bit warmer water. It seemed to do well for about a month, then it went bad. When it was doing well, I would feed it bits of krill, silversides, etc.. It also seemed to constantly be grabbing things from the water column. Every now and then one of its tentacles would retract towards the mouth as if feeding. Feeding on what, I have no clue. One thing I would be weary of is that they will devour a fish or ornamental shrimp if one gets too close. This is the main reason why I wouldn't try one in my tank again.

[dendro982]

Thank! More experiences welcome, especially with damaged tube anemones.

Here it is - morning after arrival. The damaged part was cut ~7 PM (19.00 for the rest of the world) and body buried in the sand in plastic tube (ReefPlus bottle).

So far it is 2.5 times larger, that it looked in store - 5.5" from the center to the end of tentacles, 90g tank. Seio 630, adult percula clown and young mombasa lion for comparison:




So far burned face of the valentini puffer - likely puffer tried to check, if it is edible. Two white streaks.

Any advices? Will move it in more open space, of course.

[ScarabRa]

Call me cRaZy, but I thought they "Built" the tubes around themselves, like Feather dusters...Right??

In my experience, I have had one in a tank I set up before, and it came without a tube. I put it in a medium to low current area. Sucked the sand out of the area, layed it down where I thought it would like to open, and poured the sand over it with a cup. It formed its own tube for me.

Im looking for one of the 3 color ones for my 200gal at the moment.

[MYDRAAL]

Am I missing something? I've had my tube anemone for over 2 years and it's never had a hard tube,just soft outer tube.

[dendro982]

You see now, why I am looking for the infrormation from keepers?

Thanks! Add more.
Mention temperature, food and frequency of feeding too, please.

[MYDRAAL]

Temp 78-82 with no problems to date. Mine eats any and everything the fish don't get to first. I normally just let it catch leftovers from feeding fish.

[dannyfromholland]

Hi dendro

just berry them in fine sand as mentioned they will make their own tube. Be sure that the Cerantius is in a very low flow area which is why it is difficult keeping them with dendro scleros or gorgoninans. They will eat almost everything that you feed your fish from frozen food to flakes.

Cheers
Danny

[dendro982]

Thank you, people, you are life saviors!
I started to panic a little after reading temperature requirements

Had to rearrange rock, powerheads and corals, in order to make lower flow in the only available open area.

[happyface888]

I have had mine for 7years, its gone through tank upgrades, downgrades and crashes and its still here. This creature is pretty hardy. They have great colors but I have come across people mentioning they eat fish. But it has never happened, if a fish goes near it and gets stung the fish would than jolt across the tank and rub and bounce of the sand alittle and after wards they stop. I notice if you feed them shrimp alot they get bigger, but I don't feed the little guy that much maybe once in awhile. The one I have looks exactly like this one

more information here
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...004/invert.htm

[dendro982]

How big pieces of shrimps, and how many at one time?
So far mine took a flat thin shave across the shrimp, small krill, but spit out pretty soon the group of mysis and larger pacific plankton (given in the same manner, as for sun coral).

How would you evaluate the flow on the last picture - a little bit too high, but still acceptable?

[happyface888]

I just cut the shrimp up into 3 pieces and feed once everyweek. Sometimes I add selcon to it. I would say medium flow is best, if you give it too much flow it would look like its flopped over and you won't be able to see the center.

[dendro982]

Thank you!
Without seeing the size of mouth, I underestimated its capability, and a common description as a filter-feeder added confusion too

[yrema]

hi dendro,

I have a tube anemone, without the tube also. I placed it in the sand and it seems to have made a new tube within a month, but thinner looking than the tubes of other anemones I see. They say it's a filter feeder, but it's more responsive when fed with bits of shrimp, clam or fish.

I feed mine nightly, it looks healthier than when fed every other day.

btw, guys
is your anemone always visible even during the day? mine only pops out during the dark.

[dendro982]

Thank you! More welcome.

Mine is open all the time - day and night, fully extended. Huge - it should have own 60g hex.

Same with purple frilly gorgonian, that should open at night only, it looks drab, when open.

The tank is 90g (342 L) with 110W PC, 10,000K. Filter feeders food is added several times a day, if this matters.

[MYDRAAL]

Mine stays out all day but extends its tube almost to the other side of the tank only at night.

[dendro982]

Any photos, by chance?
Mine doesn't moves, may be because it stands

[happyface888]

Mine is always out, I agree yrema about the feeding, if you feed it more it looks better. For awhile back I didn't feed the tube anemone and it start to shrink in size. but if I kept feeding it alot the colors would brighten up and get bigger too. great kind of invert and hardy, but most don't want to get them because they heard rumors about fish being devoured by them.

[dendro982]

Mine deflated once - after catching piece of the Angel food, but then restore. Sting in the valentini puffer face became almost not noticeable in two days, and hammer and sun baby are recovering after close contact during the whole night too.

Are the thin tentacled (as yours) and thick tentacled (as mine) tube anemones the same species, only young and older?

I'm considering the smaller grape colored anemone with green center, and it is thin tentacled. Will it grow?
And dark violet vs. lighter grape colors - does it depend on health or it is a permanent coloration? I don't like too dark ones.

[silverplanet]

Hello

lets get some correct information in this post and hopefully stop all the rumors about tube anemones. The tube anemone that you have is a warmer water one. you can keep it around 76 to low 80's for temperature. the purple ones can be kept at a lower temperature of around 68 to 75 but they can also be kept at higher temperatures if you would like to. these are very hardy animals and can go threw a lot before dying. they should have a dsb of sugar sand at least 4 inches. more is better here. the pvc tube is also fine for them with sand around them inside. they should not be left on a crushed coral bottom or wedged between rocks. they do not create a hard outer shell but rather build a soft mucus shell out of the sand and stinging cells they produce. try to keep this shell on them if you can unless it is really damaged then you can gently pull it off. it takes a lot of energy for them to create a new one. they are filter feeders and eat anything that sticks to there tentacles. you can feed them any kind of meaty food as well, varied diet is always better. frozen shrimp cut up, mysis, bloodworm's, krill, clams as long as it is small compared to the anemones mouth. even dt's phyto or live brine shrimp don't feed to much or they will spit it up later in the night and 2 or 3 times a week for feedings should be fine. if it grows to big cut feedings to once a week and over time it will get smaller. these are nocturnal animals so they may not like bright light and come out mostly at night. they also get about 1/3 bigger at night then during the day. they will get used to the light over time and also get used to the time for feeding. they may not come out for a day or longer and have there tentacles and body inside there tube, don't be worried just something they do. a moon light is a must for having a tube anemone and fish in the same tank so the fish can see it so they wont get stung. the reports of tube anemones eating fish is a terrible rumor, they may get stung once and a while but if someone here who has one has seen it happen then speak up. i hate hearing everyone post that info with out any proof. it has been clinically proven that a tube anemones sting is actually a lot weaker then a lot of the anemones that we all keep. i have 3 purple kinds in a 5 inch dsb and they are all growing strong, i am currently setting up a 40 gallon with a 8 inch dsb just for them. may keep a pistol shrimp and a catalina goby in the tank with the snail cuc. temp will be 72 and aq 100 for a fuge, no skimmer and lighting for algae growth only. it should be a great project. please dont forget that tube anemones are animals and they can get very big. some cold water species can be over 4 feet. cooler water and warmer water tube anemones should not be kept together or else they will sting each other. the water flow should be minimal, the less is better would be a good approach. the tentacles should sway but not be forced in any one direction. food needs to be able to stick to the tentacle and then be brought into the middle set of tentacles. if flow is to strong this cant be done or food will be lost. any other questions i may be able to answer them.

Jason

[dendro982]

Wow! Thank you! Can you add illustrations, sizes (maximal dimensions inflated) and speed of growth?

If I understand right, the purple are different species, colder water ones.
Do you know name and from where they come? A lot of info on the web, but without differentiating species, available for aquarist.

How the warmer and colder water versions could be recognized - color only (there is also the small, white, thin-tentacled tube anemone - anything good or bad about it?), or anything else?

Is the thickness of tentacles age- or species-related?

I'm also thinking about setting a separate tank for tube anemone - if anything else could be put there (another tube anemones, for example). Hexagon tank - like the flow pattern there, only looks like in 35g will fit only this big pink anemone, 11" diameter.

How do you plan to place 3 anemones in one tank, without them touching each other? Even 40g breeder - long and wide, but after 8" sand bed, not much place will be left.

About everything else mentioned:

- mine catches, but releases small clumps of several mysis or bigger pink Pacific plankton, seems not interested in Cyclop-eeze (long tentacles are not drawn to the short tentacles), but gladly takes quarter of defrozen cube, small krill or cross-section of the grocery shrimp.

- I had seen tube anemones in LFS, that has tubes, keeping shape - standing from the sand, and once had seen not buried one - it was partially curved tube, may be 3.5 cm (>1") in diameter, and ~6" (15) cm) long. The grape-colored with neon green center - slightly smaller, than mine, but having thin tentacles.

- hammer and baby tubastrea started to recover from sting.

[silverplanet]

ok here are some answers to your questions:

If I understand right, the purple are different species, colder water ones.
Do you know name and from where they come? A lot of info on the web, but without differentiating species, available for aquarist.

as far as i know the purple ones are a colder water species, trying to find a name for the tube anemones is basically impossible. they have all been grouped into the same genus, probably from lack of study and you need to dissect them to actually tell one species from another. there are only a couple in the trade anyways. i have 3 different purple ones. one is a dark purple, other has light purple tentacles, almost whitish and i have a purple one with the neon green center. good luck if you can find any info on names.

How the warmer and colder water versions could be recognized - color only (there is also the small, white, thin-tentacled tube anemone - anything good or bad about it?), or anything else?

as far as trying to find this out. i believe the pink and orange ones are the warmer water species. i have only seen about 6 different color variations in the trade. there is a white tube anemone that is cold water and grows to a huge size, not sure if that is one your talking about.

I'm also thinking about setting a separate tank for tube anemone - if anything else could be put there (another tube anemones, for example). Hexagon tank - like the flow pattern there, only looks like in 35g will fit only this big pink anemone, 11" diameter.

as long as they are the same species then there should be no problem. my dark purple and light purple ones touch tentacles all the time and have no ill effects. but i have heard that if it was a purple and a orange/pink then there would be a problem.

How do you plan to place 3 anemones in one tank, without them touching each other? Even 40g breeder - long and wide, but after 8" sand bed, not much place will be left.

it is a 40g hex and is 21" high so no problems here.

- mine catches, but releases small clumps of several mysis or bigger pink Pacific plankton, seems not interested in Cyclop-eeze (long tentacles are not drawn to the short tentacles), but gladly takes quarter of defrozen cube, small krill or cross-section of the grocery shrimp.


could be to strong current, or is still stressed if just bought from the lfs. it should take it more in time or try giving it right to the small inner tentacles with a turkey baster. i also douse with dt's 2 times a week.

I had seen tube anemones in LFS, that has tubes, keeping shape - standing from the sand, and once had seen not buried one - it was partially curved tube, may be 3.5 cm (>1") in diameter, and ~6" (15) cm) long. The grape-colored with neon green center - slightly smaller, than mine, but having thin tentacles.

sometimes after feeding mine perk up and stick about 4 or 5 inches of there tube out of the sand, usually they are about 2 or 3 inches out. sometimes lfs will plant them in the sand if they have the right kind or they will lay them on top. the tube anemone can bury itself by wiggling around but they are usually very stressed from the trip.

glad to here your fish are recovering. here is a couple pics of mine.

light purple tube anemone in its tube under actinic.

deep purple tube anemone

light purple tube anemone

my small purple with neon center.

here is a picture i just took at night.


if you have any more questions let me know.

Jason

[happyface888]

I've had a orange green center one for sometime and I was wondering how do they reproduce? Yeah the sting isnt that bad, when a fish does get stung they just jolt around for a sec and return to normal no harm done.

[dendro982]

silverplanet:
- Your opinion on difference between light purple, dark purple and with neon-green center - care, grown size, anything particular?
- How do you plan position the anemones, heaters and sources of flow in 40g hex?
- how long do you keep these anemones, did they grow noticeably?
- Just curious, what are these PVC tubes on photos, their size (to estimate size of anemones)?

Thanks for the info on incompatibility between pink and purple ones.
Already tried search, came empty.
The white one in LFS is even whiter, then yours, and small.

happyface: my valentini puffer had visible white lines and dots on the face in the morning, after adding anemone in the tank. But he is or scaleless, or has very small scales. No problem with other fish, lion rests under anemone.

[silverplanet]

Your opinion on difference between light purple, dark purple and with neon-green center - care, grown size, anything particular?

there really is no noticeable difference besides color for tube anemones and size., mine have grown quite a bit since i got them. probably about 2 inches in the last 3 months. mostly the stock is more noticeable then the tentacles.

How do you plan position the anemones, heaters and sources of flow in 40g hex?

well i try to keep them away from the heater by putting it horizontal closer to the top of the tank. i will have one power head in the tank close to the top directed at the water coming in from the hob filter i have made into a fuge so it breaks up the direct downward flow. i am going to try and give them as much space as possible with the 2 big ones on one side each and the little one in the middle. but they do move in the sand if they like to or if there not comfortable where they are. i just let them go where they like.

how long do you keep these anemones, did they grow noticeably?

see above answer

Just curious, what are these PVC tubes on photos, their size (to estimate size of anemones)?

these are the drains for the tank. i have a 20 g tall that is above this tank and flows into the tube anemone tank which flows into a sump below the tube anemone tank. the pipe is 1" schedule 40.