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#576
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i have one other flasher in that tank and it is a filament flasher the other guys in that tank are a laboutti, lineatus, temmnicki, possum wrasse and a mandarin...i was at a store a day ago that had a p. angulatus that i was looking for..got one last year and it died but this one they have had in their store for almost 3 months so i put it on hold and i am going to get it this weekend...it flashes like crazy at the store so i can't wait for it...i had a mcoskers that never flashed..i guess i was pretty lucky with that line spot
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#577
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Hello all. I have been following this thread from the beginning and it is the best ever. Enjoyed it and learned so much from it, that I went out and purchased a Blue Filamented Flasher Wrasse on this past Saturday. I acclimated for 3 hours before putting him in my quaranteen tank. Which has to pieces of live rock and a ball of cheto in it. Parameters are right on. I keep it dimmley lit. He has only popped out once. He spends what seems to be the entire day hiding under the rocks. I feed twice dailey, but I really do not know if he is eating. My question is, how should I proceed from this point on. Thank you in advance for any help. Mike.
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#578
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My Male McCosker's Flasher Wrasse.
If I add a female will he flash more often or would adding another male flasher wrasse do the job? I wasn't going to get another male McCosker's, maybe a Filamented Flasher Wrasse (Paracheilinus filamentosus) or a Yellow Fin Fairy Wrasse (Paracheilinus flavianalis). The Paracheilinus attenuatus is nice as well. |
#579
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Acclimation and Photosensitivity
Hi, everybody! I've been quietly lurking looking at all these beautiful wrasses!
Anyway, I ordered a female McCoskeri from Liveaquaria and requested a large bag with lots of water and LOTS of O2. This got me thinking about some of the fatalities I've seen and heard about when acclimating and quarrantining shipped flashers. The story is basically the same: the fish during acclimation and in QT shows a whitish barred pattern, hides in a corner and dies within 3 days. I contacted Liveaquaria to ask about shipping mortalities and found out that many times it is shock from extreme photosensitivity. Link to my discussion with LA: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...readid=1225396 Everything I've experienced seems to bear this out. The flashers that acclimated the best were shipped in black-booted bags and were put in QT under barely visible conditions. I was just wondering if anyone wanted to share their stories (good and bad) & tips on acclimation and QT procedures for shipped flashers? Meredith |
#580
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All I do is drip acclimate for a coiuple three hours at least adding 4 times the amount of water in a 5 gallon bucket with a few rocks so he can hide . Then I just added them to my tank with little light and they usually hide or burry themselves for a day or two and they are fine. I have 7 wrasses and as long as they are not bothered by other fish they all have done great.
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#581
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Thanks for the information. He came out the other night and started eating as soon as I put some food in. He looks healthy and is eating like a pig.
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#582
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Hi Meridith,
Welcome back. Since I always start QT in the dark for 2 days maybe I am not the best reference but I have never lost a flasher in QT. Stressed out in the display yes. |
#583
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No one can help me with my McCosker's question?
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120 gallon mixed reef, 30 gallon refugium, two 250 watt Phoenix 14K DE metal halides, four 65 watt Actinic power compacts, AquaC EV-120 protein skimmer, Mag Drive 12 return pump, two Hydor Koralia 4. |
#584
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Hi Phil! Still a little leery of the local forum...
I think 2 days in the dark is CRITICAL for shipped specimens. That was my main point. The 2 seperate group buys we did (via someone who didn't profit at all, but was punished by RC anyway - you probably know who I'm talking about...) was with the same wholesaler, by all accounts a respected one. In the 1st buy, the flashers ordered were in large bags, black-booted and the acclimation procedure was much like yours - in the dark. Worked fantastic! On the 2nd buy, the flashers arrived in clear, limp, small bags. When I arrived, someone was holding one of the bags to the light, trying to I.D. the species. Although I followed the same acclimation and QT procedures, I lost those 2 flashers (I had ordered 3, but there were DOA's and we split up the remaining - I believe if the they were bagged properly then there wouldn't have been the # of DOA's). So this really isn't in regards to store bought flashers, but those ordered online. Just wanted to know if ZINN22 was referring to store bought or online purchases. Oh yeah, in regards to tank stress, I've seen female flashers go at each other. I'm not quite sure that this "harem" thing is more like a "truthiness" than an absolute rule. At least within the confines of a glass box. Meredith |
#585
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I wish I could help you rickyrooz1, I think the Doctor has gone over this. They'll flash with other males in the tank (at least from his pics!) and certainly there should be times with a female or group of females that he would flash - to me, the latter would seem less stressful. I have a male hybrid (me thinks) with females and he never flashes. Maybe he's just too young.
Given the number of hybrids I've seen on this thread, I think any flasher (male or female) would do the trick. Although with yours, if you went with a male, a flavianalis would make for a nice contrast - just my aesthetic call My flashers look totally boring... Meredith |
#586
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I may have missed it but how is the book coming, did it ever get published?
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