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  #1  
Old 08/11/2005, 09:03 AM
David M David M is offline
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Diy Uv ?

UV units are expensive, any DIY ideas out there? Seems to me with the new pc UV lamps the wiring is easy enough, a Workhorse 5 will drive 2 X 55 watt. But do those pc lamps produce the right light? Why is the quartz sleeve necessary? I'm thinking of a raceway just as wide as the lamps and maybe 3/4 to 1" deep, lamps are directly over the water maybe sitting on eggcrate. Simple enough to build & a fraction the price of a 110 watt UV, but will it work?
  #2  
Old 08/11/2005, 11:08 AM
Hockeyben51 Hockeyben51 is offline
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maybe you need to post in the Diy forums? unless you want to breed uv sterilizers?


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  #3  
Old 08/11/2005, 11:43 AM
David M David M is offline
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I did smart arse Take this as a compliment, I find the most advanced and valuable information is available in this forum no matter what the question, so I often double post oddball stuff like this.
  #4  
Old 08/11/2005, 12:44 PM
rsman rsman is offline
the cow flys at dawn
 
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hehehehe

the right uv light is not safe for human eyes, nor skin

additionally the quarts sleeve functions in 2 ways 1 it protects the hot bulb which should be as close to the water as you can get and 2 IT MUST NOT block or alter the light.

im not exactly clear which pc bulb your talking bout, but once you get the right UV bulb your set.
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  #5  
Old 08/11/2005, 12:45 PM
rsman rsman is offline
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btw i made one of mine out of "replacement" bulbs and a rubbermade container. the rubbermade is holding up to the UV ok, but it wont last as long as if there was no UV
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  #6  
Old 08/11/2005, 02:10 PM
chico_andrade chico_andrade is offline
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Hi,

The quartz sleeve protec the bulb from direct contact with the water, this way the bulb run at higher temp producing the most amount of uv light. Without the sleeve it runs at a reduced temp and the uv output is reduced.
I have made some units. You can find the quartz tubes in lab suplies shops. Use a 2 inch pvc pipe, 2 tees and a stuff called prensa-cabo in portuguese, its a piece that has a male tread on one side and a rubber o-ring that it pressed against the quartz tube making it water proof, the same stuff found on RainbowLifegard units.
The lamps can also be bought at lab suplies shops, here in Brazil its much cheaper then the aquarium bulbs.
Chico
  #7  
Old 08/11/2005, 02:19 PM
Hockeyben51 Hockeyben51 is offline
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Sorry David didn't mean to be an arse
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  #8  
Old 08/11/2005, 02:19 PM
ediaz ediaz is offline
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Rsman idea sounds great, the lamp in a container with water flowing under it, keep in mind the deeper the water the less effective.

Bon dia Chico,

Your idea sounds good using pvc and the prensa cabo, or compression fitting. I make all my filters out of PVC.

David check with pentair aquatics they sell all replacement parts for their UVs, ballasts, bulbs, fittings.... all you need is a housing.

Quote:
I did smart arse Take this as a compliment, I find the most advanced and valuable information is available in this forum no matter what the question, so I often double post oddball stuff like this.
I almost peed my pants!

Most of the breeders here are former or current reef aquarists, it takes a lot of knowledge to get the water quality and enviroment to get fish to breed.

FBF rocks!

Ed
  #9  
Old 08/11/2005, 02:28 PM
chico_andrade chico_andrade is offline
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Bon dia edgar,

I use the compression fitting (thanks) pressing the quartz tube, so the bulb is free for removal without having to disconect the water line. A good idea is also to use two smaller compression fittings 1/4 inch with two plastic rods conected to a neoprene ring inside the pipe, around the quartz tube, so every few days one can pull and push the rods making the neoprene ring clean the quartz tube, this way the tube is always clean and uv reaching the water is maximum.
Chico
  #10  
Old 08/11/2005, 09:53 PM
rsman rsman is offline
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the rubbermade container i used is one of those designed for under the bed storage, the water is no thicker than 1/2" in any area, its got ribs water flows across the length of the bulb, over the ribs where the bulb is positioned. contact time seems to be way increased this way without sacrificing the flow rate at least i think i dont have much to test with except my experiences DIYing
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  #11  
Old 08/12/2005, 03:43 PM
Luis A M Luis A M is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by chico_andrade
Bon dia edgar,

What language are you guys creating?
I´ll give you a list of official choices
Buen dia-spanish
bom dia-portuguese
buon giorno-italian
bon jour-french
good morning-english
guten Tag-german

You sound like a misbarred hybrid slang
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  #12  
Old 08/12/2005, 03:52 PM
ediaz ediaz is offline
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I don't know Luis , had a brazilian girlfriend once, she said bon dia...never wrote to me

Envia el mensaje ya vacie el inbox de RC.

Ed
  #13  
Old 08/13/2005, 07:15 AM
chico_andrade chico_andrade is offline
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Hi,
This is portuguese with a spanish acent, or like we say here it´s portunhol ( portugues + espanhol).
Chico
  #14  
Old 08/13/2005, 09:00 AM
David M David M is offline
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Stop confusing me will 'ya ? I'm having enough trouble just trying to learn a little Spanish Portunhol ***
  #15  
Old 08/13/2005, 09:01 AM
David M David M is offline
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Boy, RC is strict. Can't even use "w", "t" and "f" together
  #16  
Old 08/13/2005, 03:49 PM
Luis A M Luis A M is offline
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Sorry guys,didn´t mean to hijack the thread,just cast some humor



Bringing it back,an UV without a quartz sleeve is admittedly a little less efficient,but much easier and cheaper to build as a diy project.

It is only a matter of closing a pvc pipe with two endcaps and drill both caps so a T5 UV lamp can fit thru and be sealed in place with silicone glue.Then two bearded hose connectors can be threaded/glued.To replace the bulb,the silicone must be cut out.
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  #17  
Old 08/13/2005, 08:34 PM
David M David M is offline
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Are you saying the water is in direct contact with the lamp???? That's EASY, won't the lamp shatter? Why would the quartz sleeve be better?
  #18  
Old 08/14/2005, 01:22 AM
rsman rsman is offline
the cow flys at dawn
 
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its only better from a construction standpoint, the sleve can be made waterproof, its non electrical, and the material does not harm the light itself(much). it can be made thick so it will withstand both the temp swings and the minor pressure it might be installed with. and to protect the tank itself from the bulb & electricity if it was to break.

as for a shattered bulb, it depends on construction. glass shatters from temp when there is a rapid change, there wont be a rapid change when the bulb is covered by water rapidly moving water. however that doesnt rule out breakage from other things like general stupidity and without some kind of seperator when the bulb breaks something is going into your tank, hopefully not electricity.
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  #19  
Old 08/14/2005, 01:23 AM
Luis A M Luis A M is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by David M
Are you saying the water is in direct contact with the lamp???? That's EASY, won't the lamp shatter? Why would the quartz sleeve be better?
Right.The lamp will run cooler,and because of that,it´s UV output will be a little less efficient.There are (cheaper) commercial UVs that are run like this,w/o the sleeve.The lamp won´t shatter unless you turn it on dry and then fill it with cold water.
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  #20  
Old 08/14/2005, 11:36 AM
David M David M is offline
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How "deep" should the water around the lamp be? IOW if a T-5 lamp was used (5/8") what size pvc, 2" ?
  #21  
Old 08/14/2005, 08:05 PM
Luis A M Luis A M is offline
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2" is fine.You can use an extra pair of endcaps to protect the sockets from moisture and eyes from the light of the lamp ends.
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  #22  
Old 08/15/2005, 06:51 PM
purplehaze purplehaze is offline
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David,

Check this site out...read the UV information part....

http://www.aquatechnology.net/Ultraviolet_systems.html
 


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