Calling all BASS HEADS!!!! - Page 3

55semireef · #51 12/22/2007, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Jeremy Blaze
Ported enclosures take a little more "knowledge" to build right, with port tuning and all, take up more space, and sound 'sloppy or loose" imo.

But, it really depends on what you are going for, what music you listen to, etc...

That's true. Most people that have systems listen to rap but obviously there are those that listen to other genres of music. I like to listen to rap mainly but I also love listening to other music too and see what a difference a system actually makes. But if you are going for loudness, vented is what I would go with. Havn't had to much experience with bandpass.

Jeremy Blaze · #52 12/22/2007, 10:23 AM

I did some band pass boxes, they can be good but in a narrow range, good for some competitions.

I also did some isobaric boxes, not many of those around, but they can do a great job as well. They can make a lesser sub preform very well.

55semireef · #53 12/22/2007, 10:24 AM

What on earth is an isobaric box? lol

Jeremy Blaze · #54 12/22/2007, 10:28 AM

It is a bandpass type box. You mount 2 subs face to face, each in its own chamber, you wire them out of phase. On chamber is sealed one is ported.

Works very well. We did 2 low end pioneer 15"s in one, and won the 250-500 watt class in DB drags with them.

Humboldt_Reefer · #55 12/22/2007, 10:32 AM

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ThaNgBOm321 · #56 12/22/2007, 12:42 PM

hum.. never heard of that.. i have seen boxes where 2 speakers are at a 45 of each other and with the speaker part seal. then, the back of the speaker of both are sharing one "box" with ports, one on each side.. ( think the JL spec box for w5/ w6 but if you sealed off the front of the speakers.. btw.. i love the JL box.. they are totally solid in sound .. ) ... then i have also seen speakers crazy boxes where the box is a "V" shape... one speaker at the top left leg pionting outward and then there would be the other speaker in the bottom middle where pointhing so that it is facing the magnet of the first one.. weird desing but they worked nice... i dont understand that one can as far as i know of.. bass speakers need to box to isolate the soundwaves from the back of the speaker from the front.. as to not "cancel" out the sound.. this is my understanding of how they work.. but now really... i also know about the cu thing and why certain things of the box has to be certain specs.. ( like cu ft.. too much and the speaker can over extend and bust.. too little and the they wont extend enough... polyfill is to slow down the air... and other things )

YzGyz

sherm71tank · #57 12/24/2007, 11:23 PM

Many ways to skin a cat. I've built the subs facing each other with a "push pull" arrangement and it's a loud one. Though I don't care to see the rear end of a speaker myself.

I got the amp, cap and subs in today. Spent the better part of 4 hours installing the amp and cap. You know why they charge so damn much to install your stereo at "brand x retail store"?

Because it is worth it! I got a bloody nub for a left hand, my back is sore, and I found out why I stopped messing with caps 2 years ago when I reconnected the amp cable to the battery ZAAAP! . I had to change my pants when I was done.

sherm71tank · #58 12/24/2007, 11:29 PM

I wired it all parallel so I have 2 ohms per speaker. I will wire them both parallel to the amp for a 1 ohm load. I'm going out on a limb here but I purchased a Power Acoustik OV1-4000 mono block amp that is theoretically 1 ohm stable. We'll see how it does.

What are your thoughts on sub break in time?

sherm71tank · #59 12/24/2007, 11:43 PM

Ok, just one problem. I put the Q-Logic box on the table. Then I Put the subs in the box. One at a time. I need help picking it up! LOL!

sherm71tank · #60 12/24/2007, 11:47 PM

I hope everyone is having a merry Christmas. I'm having a good time re schooling myself on these subs! (though my fingers really hurt right now!)

55semireef · #61 12/25/2007, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by sherm71tank

What are your thoughts on sub break in time?

Roughly 20 hours.

sherm71tank · #62 12/26/2007, 05:04 PM

Got it all done this morning. Someone turned all the knobs to high. When I started the car to check it all out (with the stereo off) I got a nice blast from the subs, and fried the 60 amp fuse on the battery. My wife even came running out of the house cause it vibrated everything in the house and was "really loud". I immediately thought I installed something wrong, thank goodness for that fuse! I got it all turned down and checked all the connections again. All is well, I put the cover on the box to run it sealed. I just like the tighter base sound and I have more than enough power. I'll take some pics and post later.

sherm71tank · #63 12/26/2007, 05:32 PM

ThaNgBOm321 · #64 12/26/2007, 08:26 PM

get rid of those fuses... get a breaker... ( it's just like the breaker for a house.. but for a car) once the thing trips.. you just pop the hood and click it back on... i have one installed 1' away from my battery... i dont think i will ever go back to the fuse.. pop here and there adds up to lots of $$$....

YzGyz

55semireef · #65 12/26/2007, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ThaNgBOm321
get rid of those fuses... get a breaker... ( it's just like the breaker for a house.. but for a car) once the thing trips.. you just pop the hood and click it back on... i have one installed 1' away from my battery... i dont think i will ever go back to the fuse.. pop here and there adds up to lots of $$$....

YzGyz

Or you can just buy the right fuse and fuse holder and still never have to worry about buying them again.

Sherm, a 60 amp fuse is way to small for that system which is why it blew. You need at least a 100 AMP fuse.

sherm71tank · #66 12/26/2007, 09:41 PM

I think the fuse blew because the amp was maxed out on settings because it hasn't made that sound (thankfully) again.

I did replace the fuse with a 100 amp I had from a previous install. I have turned the amp and bass boost (for 45 hz) almost all the way down and it sounds good. After break in I'll play around with it some more. At least my headlights aren't going out on me yet.

The amp is rated at 160 amps and the alternator 150. Looks like I'll be blowing fuses before I have to worry about the alternator.

YzGyz, what brand do recommend for the breaker?

sherm71tank · #67 12/26/2007, 11:34 PM

I found "it". Audiopipe 160 amp breaker for under $20.00 delivered. Thanks for the suggestion!

stlrams88 · #68 12/27/2007, 11:54 AM

JL is the best as far as im concerned and if you have money for some JL w7's go for it. I have one 12" kicker L5 with an alpine 700(?) watt amp and my rearview mirror has unscrewed itself a couple times because of the vibration. If you like bass with a lot of sustain id suggest that sub in the slot ported box made by kicker (they may not make it anymore i got mine used).

55semireef · #69 12/27/2007, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by stlrams88
JL is the best as far as im concerned and if you have money for some JL w7's go for it. I have one 12" kicker L5 with an alpine 700(?) watt amp and my rearview mirror has unscrewed itself a couple times because of the vibration. If you like bass with a lot of sustain id suggest that sub in the slot ported box made by kicker (they may not make it anymore i got mine used).

No, JL is the most overpriced company. Don't get me wrong JL is good but they are not the best. W7s are rediculously overpriced but still put up great SPL and SQ. If you want the bang for the buck buy the L7s. They get more SPL than the W7s and still have decent SQ. It really depends on the setup. Rockford fosgate make some great subs and amps too.

sherm71tank · #70 12/27/2007, 09:05 PM

I've tried all kinds of brands Kicker, JL, JBL, Audiobahn, MTX etc. etc. The most important thing IME is not skimping on the amp size. I helped a buddy of mine put a system together in his truck with Audiobahn subs and he beats guys all over with them. I think he paid $200.00 for the subs. People can't believe it when they see'em! "But I paid alot more for mine" that sucks!

Anyhow, I need a new deck, mids and tweets now. I have the amp turned almost all the way down and it's too much.

Thanks for your help!

crab0000 · #71 12/27/2007, 10:15 PM

A good box can make even mediocre subs sound great. IME it's all about the box and amp and not so much the subs. I used to have a Soundstream amp that I ran at 1/2 ohm for 12 years, so I think it was a pretty good amp. I would have replaced it with another Soundstream, but couldn't find one locally, so I went with JL.

55semireef · #72 12/28/2007, 12:40 AM

Well it is the subs too. If you have a great amp and a well built box but crappy subs it will just sound ok but nothing special.

crab0000 · #73 12/28/2007, 08:08 AM

That's why I said IME; yours may be different. I'm not talking about $30 flea market subs sounding like W7's, but I had some bottom of the line MTX subs in a good box with a good amp and they sounded pretty good IMO.

sherm71tank · #74 12/28/2007, 08:48 AM

I agree with you crab0000. It's kinda like skimmers, if you paid for the most expensive top of the line one you can get then you'll defend it to the death even though a lower priced model works just as well. You spent your money on it after all!

55semireef · #75 12/28/2007, 03:29 PM

I know, there are a lot of factors that play a role in what the overall SQ is. Just put it this way, great subs+great amp+great box= AWESOME system. Okay subs+great amp+great box=good system.