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  #226  
Old 11/04/2007, 03:57 PM
killereef killereef is offline
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very nice
  #227  
Old 11/05/2007, 05:29 AM
Baros Baros is offline
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Congratulations Machado on your beautiful propagation setup!!
I felt like a kid looking at all those gorgeous frags. It's like a coral candy store
  #228  
Old 11/07/2007, 02:34 PM
ReefFreaks ReefFreaks is offline
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Machado,

Your success rate looks very good 95/100. Great job. I think I read waaaaay back that you use Seachen reef dip. Are there any other tricks to your success rate as far a "conditioning" or "healing" of the frags?
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  #229  
Old 11/07/2007, 07:23 PM
Giga Giga is offline
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this has acually inspired me to do something simlar to this, just on a smaller size(my apartment is only so big ) ) i'll have two 25 gallon tank-one coral growing tank-one mangrove tank- and a 29 gallon sump/filtration-finisheing the stand this week!
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  #230  
Old 11/08/2007, 05:19 PM
redox redox is offline
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Machado havent heard from you latley. Are you busy cutting corals?
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  #231  
Old 11/13/2007, 08:13 PM
magnoliarichj magnoliarichj is offline
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ttt
  #232  
Old 11/17/2007, 09:59 PM
Shouse94 Shouse94 is offline
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Well,
Ill be the 101th guy to say it. Amazing setup Machado de Sousa!
I enjoyed every word of the 10 page thread. I hope to be at your level of expertise someday.
Just one question, not sure if I missed it somewhere in the thread. How high are your T5's mounted off the water surface?
Pete
  #233  
Old 11/18/2007, 12:54 PM
Shouse94 Shouse94 is offline
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Also why do you choose to replace your T5 bulbs every 6 months?
I only ask this b/c I've heard from other reliable sources that T5's hold their light output curve waaaay longer than Metal Halides and don't really begin to lose efficiency till near the end of bulb life (which is way longer than 6 months). I'm not questioning your strategy, only trying to understand from your point of view/experience. Thanks for any insight you can provide.
  #234  
Old 11/21/2007, 01:41 AM
Machado deSousa Machado deSousa is offline
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Hello friends,
Excuse me my delay in thanking you for your comments and answer questions posted here but I have been a little busy with work. Thanks for your interest and sympathy.

I will answer to all questions.


Quote:
Originally posted by ReefFreaks
Machado,

Your success rate looks very good 95/100. Great job. I think I read waaaaay back that you use Seachen reef dip. Are there any other tricks to your success rate as far a "conditioning" or "healing" of the frags?
My first trick is to avoid at all costs contamination with pests such as EAFW, red bugs, Montipora Eating Nudibranch, etc.. If I suspect the existence of any parasite in my system I move away the coral as soon as possible and do the treatment with the more indicated Chemical baths (dipping).

My second trick is to combat all kind of undesirable algae. I avoid the introduction of any new variety of algae in the system and reduce nutrients such as phosphate and nitrate to the minimum levels not only to enhance coral colors but to prevent algae apparition. Rowaphos and algae filters give a good help. As a preventive measure large variety of fish and invertebrate herbivores are welcome.

And the last but not the last trick is stability to all physical and chimical parameters.

Cheers,
  #235  
Old 11/21/2007, 01:52 AM
Machado deSousa Machado deSousa is offline
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Hello friends!
Excuse me my delay in thanking you for your comments and answer to the questions posted here but I have been a little busy with work and others affairs. Thanks for your interest and sympathy.

I will answer to all questions one by one.

Quote:
Originally posted by ReefFreaks
Machado,

Your success rate looks very good 95/100. Great job. I think I read waaaaay back that you use Seachen reef dip. Are there any other tricks to your success rate as far a "conditioning" or "healing" of the frags?
My first trick is to avoid at all costs contamination with pests such as EAFW, red bugs, Montipora Eating Nudibranch, etc.. If I suspect the existence of any parasite in my system I move away the coral as soon as possible and do the treatment with the more indicated Chemical baths (dipping).

My second trick is to combat all kind of undesirable algae. I avoid the introduction of any new variety of algae in the system and reduce nutrients such as phosphate and nitrate to the minimum levels not only to enhance coral colors but to prevent algae apparition. Rowaphos and algae filters give a good help. As a preventive measure large variety of fish and invertebrate herbivores are welcome.

And the last but not the last trick is stability to all physical and chimical parameters.

Cheers,
  #236  
Old 11/21/2007, 02:00 AM
Machado deSousa Machado deSousa is offline
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Hello friends!
Excuse me my delay in answering to your questions but I have been a little busy with work and others affairs. Thanks for your coments, interest and sympathy. I will answer to all questions one by one.

Quote:
Originally posted by ReefFreaks
Machado,

Your success rate looks very good 95/100. Great job. I think I read waaaaay back that you use Seachen reef dip. Are there any other tricks to your success rate as far a "conditioning" or "healing" of the frags?
My first trick is to avoid at all costs contamination with pests such as EAFW, red bugs, Montipora Eating Nudibranch, etc.. If I suspect the existence of any parasite in my system I move away the coral as soon as possible and do the treatment with the more indicated Chemical baths (dipping).

My second trick is to combat all kind of undesirable algae. I avoid the introduction of any new variety of algae in the system and reduce nutrients such as phosphate and nitrate to the minimum levels not only to enhance coral colors but to prevent algae apparition. Rowaphos and algae filters give a good help. As a preventive measure large variety of fish and invertebrate herbivores are welcome.

And the last but not the last trick is stability to all physical and chimical parameters.

Cheers,
  #237  
Old 11/21/2007, 11:40 AM
Oldude Oldude is offline
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WOW!!! That is an amazing and inspiring set up. WELL DONE!!! You have given me some great ideas for mine. Thank you.
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Greg
  #238  
Old 11/21/2007, 12:30 PM
michika michika is offline
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Do you have any photos of moving the polyps over to your nursery tank? How do you extract the polyp(s)?
  #239  
Old 11/21/2007, 08:55 PM
Machado deSousa Machado deSousa is offline
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Hi Mods,
Sorry, please erase my repeated posts.
Thanks
  #240  
Old 11/21/2007, 09:21 PM
Machado deSousa Machado deSousa is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Giga
this has acually inspired me to do something simlar to this, just on a smaller size(my apartment is only so big ) ) i'll have two 25 gallon tank-one coral growing tank-one mangrove tank- and a 29 gallon sump/filtration-finisheing the stand this week!
Hi Giga!
I'm happy to inspire you. Go ahead! You are on a good way...
Cheers,
  #241  
Old 11/21/2007, 11:22 PM
Machado deSousa Machado deSousa is offline
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Hi Redox!
I was out for some time, not busy cutting corals but some eggcrates to the knew daycare center. I will post pics.

Cheers,
  #242  
Old 11/21/2007, 11:31 PM
Machado deSousa Machado deSousa is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shouse94
Well,
Just one question, not sure if I missed it somewhere in the thread. How high are your T5's mounted off the water surface?
Pete
Hello Shouse94!
T5 bulbs are so close as posíble the water surface, about 4".

Cheers,
  #243  
Old 11/22/2007, 12:28 AM
Machado deSousa Machado deSousa is offline
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hi Killereef and Baros, thanks for your coments.
  #244  
Old 11/22/2007, 08:23 AM
LittleBlueGT LittleBlueGT is offline
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Maybe I missed it:


Ozone?

Any bacterial system?
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When all else fails, turn up the flow!!!
  #245  
Old 11/23/2007, 02:00 AM
njdevilsfan njdevilsfan is offline
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im sorry if im repeating a question
why do you replace the t5 bulbs after 6 months?
  #246  
Old 11/23/2007, 09:30 AM
Shouse94 Shouse94 is offline
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Quote:
Also why do you choose to replace your T5 bulbs every 6 months?I only ask this b/c I've heard from other reliable sources that T5's hold their light output curve waaaay longer than Metal Halides and don't really begin to lose efficiency till near the end of bulb life (which is way longer than 6 months). I'm not questioning your strategy, only trying to understand from your point of view/experience. Thanks for any insight you can provide.
Well you are but I still haven't got a response yet.
  #247  
Old 11/23/2007, 12:56 PM
Machado deSousa Machado deSousa is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shouse94
Also why do you choose to replace your T5 bulbs every 6 months?I only ask this b/c I've heard from other reliable sources that T5's hold their light output curve waaaay longer than Metal Halides and don't really begin to lose efficiency till near the end of bulb life (which is way longer than 6 months). I'm not questioning your strategy, only trying to understand from your point of view/experience. Thanks for any insight you can provide.
Quote:
Originally posted by njdevilsfan
im sorry if im repeating a question
why do you replace the t5 bulbs after 6 months?
Quote:
Originally posted by Shouse94
Well you are but I still haven't got a response yet.
Sorry for delay in answer to your comments.
Shouse9 and njdevilsfan: Soon or late I will answer to all questions with all pleasure of the world.
Changing t5 every month is really expensive. The idea that I have about lighting used in reef keeping is that, even with t5 bulbs, we can see clearly drastic changes in color temperature after few weeks after use. The lamps tends to show a significant reduction of its intensity in the first six months of life but it is difficult to assure the reduction of intensity when used for some time after that "deadline". Is accepted by all that as the lamp ages the intensity will reduce. One way to counteract this situation, not a practical idea!, would be put the fixture furthest from the surface of the water when the lamps are new and go lowering the fixture as time goes in order to maintain the intensity at the water surface, but the problem of the spectrum of light bulbs that will change with time also, it would not be resolved. The intensity of the lamps are reduced sacrificing the violet and blue radiations "left zone of the spectrum" keeping more or less stable the right yellow and red zone of the spectrum. We note that the loss of intensity is higher for blue lamps, with high kelvins, which tend to be more white when ages but the same is not true with lamps with wider spectrum, around 10,000 ° K.
It is true that there have been large technological developments in the manufacture of t5 and electronic ballasts have brought significant improvements not only at the level of intensity of the lamps but also the stability of the spectrums, bringing in much life to the bulbs, but as a matter of caution i change my lamps with high kelvins every 6 months and the bulbs with low colour temperature can go up to 8 (10 months at most). To prevent light shocked i avoid sudden increases in brightness when i change bulbs I change few bulbs at a time.

Cheers,
  #248  
Old 11/23/2007, 02:49 PM
LittleBlueGT LittleBlueGT is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by LittleBlueGT
Maybe I missed it:


Ozone?

Any bacterial system?
????????????


Thanks
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When all else fails, turn up the flow!!!
  #249  
Old 11/23/2007, 10:30 PM
Machado deSousa Machado deSousa is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by LittleBlueGT
????????????


Thanks
Hi LittleBlueGT,

Sorry for delay, i didn't forget you.
I don't use ozone in the system.
About bacterial to reduce nutrients, i use every month Ultra-Bio and Ultra-Bac (Fauna Marin products).

Cheers,
  #250  
Old 11/24/2007, 02:58 PM
Machado deSousa Machado deSousa is offline
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Few days ago arrived new tanks destinate to the new day-cares. One of the new day-care began to be mounted to receive new babies.

General view and the new day-care localization- first plan on the left



Rack of the day-care tanks



Egg crate panes
 

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