Phosban or Rowaphos for Po4 removal?

[cwegescheide]

I've got a few buckets of Phosban I got a long time ago and have been running it in a bag in my sump. I recently tested my Po4 with a Hanna meter and .14!! So I am now running it in a Phosban reactor. I hear though Rowaphos is much better at removing Phosphate.

Whats your experience? What things to watch out for when running it actively? I have heard you can do a lot of damage to SPS if you pull out Phosphate too quickly.

Right now I have my reactor about half full of Phosban and running it pretty slow. Slowly turning over the media in the chamber. I will have my Po4 tested next weekend with my LFS's Hanna Meter and then go from there.

Thanks,
Chris

[nismo driver]

send me your hanna and i will tell you how much more effective rowa is..


i was using puraphos phosban ect and since i had to replace the media i figured why not spend twice as much for the rowa phos..

i honestly have no idea if its better, i get low readings on my api kit no matter what and no matter what my dinos wont go away..

[Marko9]

Rowa is better of those two, but I recommend Phosar HC.

[mcliffy2]

Arent these all pretty much ferric oxide? I use the generic ferric oxide from twopartsolution.com, and it seems to be doing a good job for me.

[msn711]

That's what I thought too mcliffy2.

What's the basis for thinking/determining that any one is better than the other?

[trueperc]

Another Twopart person here. This stuff works great and for the price its amazing.
Give you an idea, I have a 210 with a 72 gallon sump half full, been battle phos for a while. Now I have a few large angels and tangs plus others. My phos was .5 easy if not more. I tries the phoslock and it didn do much, rowa did work but at the cost forget, I filled two phos reactors half full of the two part stuff and with in 2-3 day, my phos was 0 and it has been like this for over a month with the same media. Save yourself some money and get the twopartsolution.com(which is now http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/), I went for the pellet version.

[ozadars]

There is an article by Randy which compares the Phosban and Rowa. They are almost equal.

[j.prostrata]

twopart now sells and HC version like phosar HC.

[ozadars]

I dont know how effective phosar is compared to Rowa and Phosban but I think the advantage of phosar is that the granules are large enough that you can use it effectively without a reactor.

[tomasz]

How do you use yours? Do you rinse before using it?

Originally posted by trueperc
Another Twopart person here. This stuff works great and for the price its amazing.
Give you an idea, I have a 210 with a 72 gallon sump half full, been battle phos for a while. Now I have a few large angels and tangs plus others. My phos was .5 easy if not more. I tries the phoslock and it didn do much, rowa did work but at the cost forget, I filled two phos reactors half full of the two part stuff and with in 2-3 day, my phos was 0 and it has been like this for over a month with the same media. Save yourself some money and get the twopartsolution.com(which is now http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/), I went for the pellet version.

[trueperc]

I just put the dry pellets into the phosban reactor and then put the pump into a container of ro water and run it until the water is clear. Once this is done I move it over to the tank. I like doing it this was as I find it harder to put into those phosban reactor and I don't want to loose anything I paid for down the drain. I have two phosban reactors half full linked together and the pump I am using is a maxijet 400 and I have it dialed down so that the media is just moving around.

[RokleM]

I normally change my media at the same time as a water change (don't confuse with changing EVERY time I do a water change). I hook it up normal and put the output into an old salt bucket. Typically after about a gallon or so it's running clear, but I normally do 1/2-3/4 of a bucket.