Adam's 55 gallon Reef (Lots o' Pics) - Page 5

divecj5 · #**101** 10/03/2006, 11:28 AM

Before I forget, can I use some Phoslock that I have in the reactor or should I get the phosban? Also, how often do the foam discs need to be replaced? Just curious since I hate having to pay for the shipping later on for a $2.00 item

cmc0814 · #**102** 10/03/2006, 11:30 AM

Hey Paul,
Even though this really doesn't matter a whole lot. You said that the actinic lights are measured in namometers and you didn't know why. It is because wavelengths are measured in nm, so it is just specifying how blue they are. Nothing big!

-Chris

cmc0814 · #**103** 10/03/2006, 11:30 AM

Hey Paul,
Even though this really doesn't matter a whole lot. You said that the actinic lights are measured in namometers and you didn't know why. It is because wavelengths are measured in nm, so it is just specifying how blue they are. Nothing big!

-Chris

divecj5 · #**104** 10/03/2006, 11:36 AM

Hey Chris. Just for general and future knowledge, so the higher the number, the more blue correct?

Also, does the whole actinic + just mean that the bulbs are higher in nms?

Adam

captbunzo · #**105** 10/03/2006, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by divecj5
I will probably use one in the auto top off that I might build in the future (will this be too strong of a pump) and I will use the other one for the reactor.

Too strong, er, probably not. However, there is the added complexity that you don't want to run a maxijet dry (in case of your reservoir emptying). I would recommend a little pump called an AquaLifter. You can get them for about $16 or so. And they have some nice advantages...

1. They can run dry (they are sort of like an air pump designed to be capable of pumping water too).

2. They pump VERY slowly (3.5 GPH), so they won't OVER topoff your system. By that I mean... A maxijet is probably going to push a little more water into your system then it needs to just because it is so powerful. An AquaLifter will be able to add just the right amount. This adds to overall stability of water parameters (salinity, etc). And if you are using Kalkwasser, which I recommend, then you will avoid problems with pH spikes...

There are more nice bits about using an AquaLifter, but my brains a little fried this morning... In fact, I was staying up too late last night ordering parts for my OWN auto topoff system.

Top-if-Off Kit Premium from AquaHub.com

I set one up on my 55g tank in Ardmore about 3 months ago. Now I consider it to be a REQUIRED piece of equipment for a tank. It is just too nice.

So I got a kit to setup for my 57g tank in dallas. Btw, that kit from AquaHub is about the best deal I have seen.

divecj5 · #**106** 10/03/2006, 11:47 AM

Funny you mentioned the aquahub site because I spent about an hour on there yesterday as well just reading about the different units that they have. I was looking at the aqualifter as well instead of the maxijet so I guess down the road the maxijet will be relegated to just mixing saltwater

I think I will go with one of the units from aquahub as well since they look very simplistic yet of course very functional. Out of curiousity, which unit did you go with? I was thinking about the middle range one because I would rather not have to strip a ton of wire (electircal cord) and also just skip the whole 9 volt battery deal. I like the idea of plugging it into the wall instead. Although, the battery would be good because if you lost power it would still top off.

That's funny that we were both looking at that yesterday. I saw a pic on the MACNA pics thread and decided to check out the page. They will probably be getting my business in the near near future as well

I'm off to check out your thread on the auto top off. How are your other tanks and projects coming along?

Adam

divecj5 · #**107** 10/03/2006, 11:48 AM

For those of you who haven't seen Paul's tanks, he has some killer pillars going on....I'm still jealous of those

Divetime · #**108** 10/03/2006, 12:51 PM

Adam - I've been running a float switch from Aquahub on a Auqalifter pump. The plastic molds that they sell are awesome. I can see using them for multiple applications. Everything is so cheap I ordered extras to be on the safe side. I used Melev's example that he shows how to make on his website. I've had no problems so far & love the simplicity of not having to add topoff water everyday.

captbunzo · #**109** 10/03/2006, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by divecj5
Before I forget, can I use some Phoslock that I have in the reactor or should I get the phosban? Also, how often do the foam discs need to be replaced? Just curious since I hate having to pay for the shipping later on for a $2.00 item

Foam discs, order extra. NOT because I forsee having to replace them (they rinse, etc, just fine) - but because I hate for YOU to have to pay shipping later in case that $2.00 item mysteriously needs replaced. Hey, stuff happens!

As for Phoslock, my research leads me to believe that it is pretty much another variety of GFO (Granulated Ferric Oxide) phosphate remover (like PhosBan, Rowaphos, etc). Technically it is GFH (Granulated Ferric Hydroxide). However, I would personally use a straight GFO media after you run out of Phoslock, such as Phosban...

captbunzo · #**110** 10/03/2006, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by cmc0814
Even though this really doesn't matter a whole lot. You said that the actinic lights are measured in namometers and you didn't know why. It is because wavelengths are measured in nm, so it is just specifying how blue they are. Nothing big!

Well I knew that much.

My real question is: why are actinics measured in nm and regular bulbs in Kelvin? Wouldn't it have been just as easy to say something like 7150K (420 nm) and 6500K (460 nm).

Btw, here is the page google always sends me to when I search from nm to Kelvin conversion formulas...
http://www.cinematography.net/Pages%...Conversion.htm

captbunzo · #**111** 10/03/2006, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by divecj5
Also, does the whole actinic + just mean that the bulbs are higher in nms?

Ignore words such as actinic+ ... that's just a brands model name and has no signficant use beyond identifying what you bought last time you bought bulbs.

Really, just find the specs (nm or Kelvin) and use that as your judge.

NOW, if we can get a definitive answer on whether 420 or 460 nm has more blue in it...

captbunzo · #**112** 10/03/2006, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by divecj5
I was looking at the aqualifter as well instead of the maxijet so I guess down the road the maxijet will be relegated to just mixing saltwater

You NEVER know when an extra powerhead will come in handy...

Quote:

I think I will go with one of the units from aquahub as well since they look very simplistic yet of course very functional. Out of curiousity, which unit did you go with? I was thinking about the middle range one because I would rather not have to strip a ton of wire (electircal cord) and also just skip the whole 9 volt battery deal. I like the idea of plugging it into the wall instead. Although, the battery would be good because if you lost power it would still top off.

I went with the middle unit as well. Since I am using an AquaLifter, I don't actually need the water level switch in the topoff reservoir. But I did want the project box, etc. I also added in a toggle switch and LED indicator. And funny on the battery thing - I like the idea of not having to plug it in. Supposedly the battery should last for quite a long time.

Quote:

I'm off to check out your thread on the auto top off. How are your other tanks and projects coming along?

Things are going well. I need to get off my lazy butt and build some stands, though...

divecj5 · #**113** 10/03/2006, 01:20 PM

Thanks guys. I think I am going to be getting within the next week the phosban reactor (I'll just use a maxijet on it), 2 SEIO 620s, some phosban (to be used after I go through phoslock), some carbon, and some various tid bits.

I know...I don't even have it yet and i already have questions. How often does the phoslock need to be replaced? Also, do you just run phosban for a couple weeks and then run carbon for a bit as well? Just curious what sort of "schedule" would I run the two.

I think I will probably order the middle unit as well from aquahub in the coming weeks and just set up my topoff system like that. I am going to be going out of town in about 2 weeks and would like to have that set up so that my girlfriend can just check things for me and feed the clowns (I've already showed her the ropes and I will set out amounts beforehand for each day

) Not that I don't think she's capable but you know....

Thanks for the advice about the bulbs and the aqualifter. I figured the (+) was either a marketing ploy or a way that one company distinguishes the bulbs from one another. Glad it's not a marketing ploy...well not really at least

Thanks again for all the help.

captbunzo · #**114** 10/03/2006, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by divecj5
I know...I don't even have it yet and i already have questions. How often does the phoslock need to be replaced? Also, do you just run phosban for a couple weeks and then run carbon for a bit as well? Just curious what sort of "schedule" would I run the two.

Read this and then post again to let me know if you have any question left about running carbon & phosban. It's relatively short...

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=879435

And the topoff system is a good plan.

divecj5 · #**115** 10/03/2006, 01:26 PM

Man...that little LED light and toggle swith (although really simple) are pretty cool additions for sure.

You'll have to let us know how it turns out.

Adam

captbunzo · #**116** 10/03/2006, 01:30 PM

Yeah, unfortunately the little red LED is not available anymore. I only got it (for FREE!

) for reporting it on their website as a bug. I clicked and clicked and couldn't get it to add to my shopping cart. So after I ordered, I emailed them about it.

So they sent me one for free and fixed their website. You should be able to find somethng very similar at a Radio Shack... For example...

http://www.radioshack.com/family/ind...032058.2032233

divecj5 · #**117** 10/03/2006, 01:36 PM

Thanks for the Phosban and Carbon thread Paul. Glad you posted that since I probably would have had to search high and low to find it otherwise

It's also great that you inquired about this for a 55....takes some of the guess work out of it for me. That's a sweet deal that you can use both in one reactor (might be more efficient otherwise in two but who knows)...and hey, if Randy said it was alright, must work just fine

Lucky dog with the LED lights....they don't show up anymore on their site....guess I'll have to go to Radioshak down the line.

Thanks again for help.

Adam

divecj5 · #**118** 10/04/2006, 07:21 AM

So I finally just bit the bullet and just got done ordering some goodies for the tank:

Two Little Fishes Phosban Reactor

Replacement discs for reactor (just in case

)

1.87L of Black Diamond Carbon (I'm guessing this is a good size to get)

2 Seio m620s (on sale now)

Some PhytoPlan (just wanted to try it out since it was on sale as well)

I also got an auto feeder for when my girlfriend and I leave for a long weekend and some id tubing for the reactor (both of which aren't very exciting). So hopefully mr. FedEx will be dropping those to me possibly on Friday. If not, Monday then. I'm glad that I will be replacing the maxi jets although they have definitely served me well with no problems. Like I mentioned before, I will reuse them both: one for the reactor and the other for mixing salt.

divecj5 · #**119** 10/04/2006, 07:30 AM

I have been talking about getting some better and more T5 lighting for a while now on here and I think my corals are eagerly awaiting it as well. I am pretty much fresh out of college (well about 1 1/2 now) and luckily I was able to find a job quickly. Since I got a promotion yesterday

I have some extra money this month so I decided to go ahead and while I was upgrading some other things, I bought a T5 fixture from someone here on RC.

It is the Aquatinics T5 HO 5 Bulb Fixture . I ended up getting it brand new from someone selling on the Trading Forum for about 35% off what I could have got it from Aquatinics online. I really like the design (cooling fans already built in) and I like that they have a forum on RC where I can ask away and get good customer service. It is supposed to ship to me this afternoon so maybe FedEx will have that to me as well Friday. Might just be a great weekend

I like that the fixture has two seperate switches (I know, this is common) because I never had that with my Coralife Strip Lights. I also really like that there are separate reflectors for each of the bulbs and there isn't really anything extra that needs to be bought for it like the Tek5 fixtures (splash shield, legs, bulbs, etc).

Now my question is, what sort of lighting schedule should I start running once I get it on the tank. Right now, I run my lights full out (I can't control actinics and white seperately) from around 2:30 pm til 10. I know at first that I will just run the lights (since it will be almost triple the amount) for about half the light period.

I guess my question is what time should I turn on the actinics and what time should I turn on the others? What would you all suggest a good lighting schedule?

Thanks again for the suggestions. I can't wait to get everything this weekend. Although I am more patient now dealing with the hobby, it's still tough to have to wait for shipping.

I might go this weekend to get some more live rock as well. We'll see though.

Adam

captbunzo · #**120** 10/04/2006, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by divecj5
I might go this weekend to get some more live rock as well. We'll see though.

That, my friend, would ROCK!!!

(sorry, couldn't help myself - I'll post more intelligently later)

And congrats on the promotion!!!! WOOHOOO!!!

divecj5 · #**121** 10/04/2006, 07:52 AM

Hahaha....nice

If everything comes in on Friday, I might have one ROCKIN' weekend

Thanks for the congrats....wasn't expecting it.

Let me know what you think about the lighting schedule.

Adam

Divetime · #**122** 10/04/2006, 08:22 AM

Congrats on the promotion

Maybe I need to move to SC so I can jump into a kick A@# GIS Position although I don't think the wife would agree with that

It looks like Christmas came early this year!

What bulbs are you going to go with on the new T5 setup?

Let us know how you like the Seio 620's when you get them up & running. I want to go with the 1100's since my tank is BB but they may be too big for the 55.

Keep us posted & it I guess it's offical to say you have a Reef Addiction

divecj5 · #**123** 10/04/2006, 08:34 AM

Hey Divetime....there are actually a couple GIS opportunities up here where I work in Charleston so just let me know if you're ever interested....seriously

Yeah, Christmas did come a little early for me this year....it's nice to buy something like that every once in a while.

The bulbs that are coming with it are:

2-Sun Pro (10,000 K)
2-Blue Pro
1-Blue Plus

All are 54 watts.

captbunzo · #**124** 10/04/2006, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by divecj5
The bulbs that are coming with it are:

2-Sun Pro (10,000 K)
2-Blue Pro
1-Blue Plus

Pretty good set. And the combination is probably GREAT for a Softie + LPS tank. If you were more leaning toward SPS corals, I'd recommend 3 10000K & 2 actinic.

Anyhow, I'd suggest you put the 2 10000K bulbs plus the "Blue Plus" on the 3 bulb switch. Then put the 2 Blue Pro on the 2 bulb switch.

Run the 2 bulb switch for 12 hours and the 3 bulb switch for 8-9 hours, centered in between the 12 hour window for the 2 bulber. The exact time of the day does not really matter...

For example:

   09:00 AM - 2 bulb on
   11:00 AM - 3 bulb on
    ...
   07:00 PM - 3 bulb on
   09:00 PM - 2 bulb off

Now, you can do longer if you like. That will only increase your likelyhood of having problems with algae, etc.

divecj5 · #**125** 10/04/2006, 11:30 AM

Awesome....thanks Paul for the clear and concise explanation. That was what I was leaning towards but just wasn't sure how long I should run each. Thanks again man.

Adam