Just got my tank! - Page 5

Fmellish · #**101** 12/27/2005, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mope54
you have to level the tank...you could use self-leveling epoxy instead of shims.

also, if it were my house and I was putting a tank in the middle of the room (or anywhere not being a load-bearing wall), I'd crawl under the house and add support beneath the tank.

Thanks for the tip. I'll measure the level tonight. Unless it's way off I may just leave it.

I have a reinforced post tension slab. I would have to dig down 10 feet into the earth and then tunnel over to get under my slab. It's not a traditional raised house.

If I were to try and shim the tank, so I shim the entire stand, or just shim the tank where it meets the stand? I amagine it may be too late to shim anything now. The tank is partially full and I can't lift it. I couldn't really lift it empty either. Same with the stand, to shim the stand would be tough. I'd need a dolly to get it off the ground at all. And do I really want to be lifting my entire setup, (stand and tank), off the ground while there is water in it so I can insert shims?

Thanks
Josh

Fmellish · #**102** 12/27/2005, 11:52 AM

Update:

TDS level of tap water is 336 PPM.
TDS level of RO/DI water is 0 PPM.

Flushed RO/DI system for 3 hours and then put it's hose in the tank and let it flow over night. In 10 hours it filled the tank up approximately 25%.

I will turn the hose on again tonight.

Cheers
Josh

mmoore0803 · #**103** 12/27/2005, 03:55 PM

i thought you were going to use that thin styrofoam board in the garage to level the tank

Fmellish · #**104** 12/27/2005, 04:14 PM

The purpose of the foam is to distribute pressure of the wood frame across the entire tank bottom. I didn't plan on using it as I have a nice solid shelf for the tank to sit on, but I saw that fish stores sometimes put foam down, so I decided to keep it after all.

The foam is not a contributing factor and it will be squished fairly level once the tank is full.

mope54 · #**105** 12/27/2005, 04:16 PM

You have to level the stand, you can't just shim the tank. Acrylic tanks have to be perfectly level on the stand. You'll need to shim the stand.

I have plastic shims. You can buy them at Lowe's or some place like that. I got mine at a locally owned business, but I forgot the name. I still have a bunch lying around somewhere, but they're cheap.

1/8" on a 4ft run? I'm hoping you're referring to the length of the tank and not the width. If it's the width, you must level it because that's huge. If it's lengthwise, you may never run into any problems, but you've spent all this time to rebuild a stand you were worried about, redesign the plumbing, and etc. It just seems senseless to leave something like a seam busting to chance without at least increasing your odds against it happening.

It sounds like this is going to be a lifelong tank (or a decade or two). You've got your own house, setting it up in the living room, and all that. So far you've been following the do it right the first time. Unfortunately, someone forgot to mention to check level and plumb! But it's ok, this is a common issue, and besides, the tank settled more once you poured a half ton of water in it so you may have had to relevel it anyway. Just be thankful you don't have the problem I had--my tank was comnpletely set up and running before we bothered to check level! I had to do a complete tank tear down and move it against the wall. All you have to do is shim the stand or dump the water, lift the tank and pour some self-leveling epoxy.

http://www.shopmaninc.com/kk121.html

Quote:

Originally posted by Fmellish
Thanks for the tip. I'll measure the level tonight. Unless it's way off I may just leave it.

I have a reinforced post tension slab. I would have to dig down 10 feet into the earth and then tunnel over to get under my slab. It's not a traditional raised house.

If I were to try and shim the tank, so I shim the entire stand, or just shim the tank where it meets the stand? I amagine it may be too late to shim anything now. The tank is partially full and I can't lift it. I couldn't really lift it empty either. Same with the stand, to shim the stand would be tough. I'd need a dolly to get it off the ground at all. And do I really want to be lifting my entire setup, (stand and tank), off the ground while there is water in it so I can insert shims?

Thanks
Josh

Fmellish · #**106** 12/27/2005, 04:21 PM

It's a small amount acorss the entire length. Front to back is level, it's just side to side across 4 feet the water seems a tad higher on one side. But just a tad, and I haven't done any scientific analysis yet.

If the slab is level, which I don't know if it is, I'm assuming a freshly constructed wooden stand will settle a little bit?

I don't want to level it and then once it gets under weight it settles and then is not level.

It takes so long to fill, still only about 25% full. But I would hate to begin any leveling procedure without first verifying level once full and settled. Does my process make any sense?

Thanks
Josh

Fmellish · #**107** 12/27/2005, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by FrankB1
Check out the Compact ReefKeeper unit, its a 5 stage for $139.

BTW, I have to give props to FrankB1 for referring me to the RO/DI unit I ultimately bought. It's working great so far

Thanks FrankB1

mope54 · #**108** 12/27/2005, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fmellish
If the slab is level, which I don't know if it is, I'm assuming a freshly constructed wooden stand will settle a little bit?

It's not out of the realm of possibility that your foundation shifted, especially in OC where we live on a sandbed with more fault lines than solid pieces! But it's most likely you built a crooked stand

[quote
I don't want to level it and then once it gets under weight it settles and then is not level.

It takes so long to fill, still only about 25% full. But I would hate to begin any leveling procedure without first verifying level once full and settled. Does my process make any sense?

Thanks
Josh [/QUOTE]

Yeah, makes perfect sense. That's what I was commenting on, that your tank will continue to shift while weight is being added. Although, to be honest, I don't think you're going to get much more movement given that you're on a concrete slab. The changes occur because the floor beams bow under weight--not really because the tank or stand are shifting.

I only used foam under my glass tanks, I never have with my acrylic ones. I know some people do, but those ones at the LFS you saw were most likely glass. You know the grade of wood you bought for the bottom (top?) of the stand so you'll have to decide whether you want or need to deal with it. It won't level anything, though, just protect the bottom of the tank from pressure points.

Fmellish · #**109** 12/27/2005, 07:13 PM

Thanks.

I'll check tonight to see if the tank is level or not. If not then I'll monitor the tank for a few days and correct if needed.

Thanks
Josh

Fmellish · #**110** 12/27/2005, 08:43 PM

OK, here's the scoop.

The stand is perfectly square and parallel to the ground, and the tank is perfectly parallel to the stand.

My cement slab is not level, as I knew it probably wasn't. I am seeing a 3/16 " difference in water height over 4 feet.

So if the water on the left of the tank were to just touch the ceiling, the water on the right side of the tank would be 3/16" below the ceiling. That's across 4 feet. Also front to back across 2 feet, the water level is lower in the front than the back by 1/16"

So the entire slab slopes towards the fron of my tank by 1/16" every 2 feet and 3/16" inch every 4 feet going the other way.

Is that small of a deviation any problem?

Should I bother to drain it and level it?

You seriously can't tell unless you break out a ruler.

Thanks
Josh

Reef_Dweller_69 · #**111** 12/27/2005, 09:58 PM

If the water level is lower in the front then the slop is to the back. As it leans to the back the water will rise in the back and be lower in the front

mope54 · #**112** 12/27/2005, 11:06 PM

If it's concrete, I'd probably leave it myself.

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=395149

Fmellish · #**113** 12/29/2005, 09:22 AM

Ok I need help quick!

I'm just starting to flow test and when I kill the return pump the sump will overflow into my family room.

My return line siphons the tank contents back into the sump.

i have locline on my return that plunges into my tank about 2 feet deep. WHen the pump kicks off the tank wants to drain to this level through my return line!!

Please help, how can i prevent this from hapening? How do I keep the return line from siphoning half of my tank back into my sump!!

I know with the drain line you can drill a hole to let air in, but I can't drill a hole in my return there is pressurized water in the return under normal operation. Help Help

I'ts running while I write this and I can't turn the pump off.

Help please

Thanks
Josh

Fmellish · #**114** 12/29/2005, 10:37 AM

Important updates!!

http://members.cox.net/jgunder/aquarium/

Also, do you apply teflon tape to the threads on a union?

My single union leaks. It doesn't leak at either end, but in the middle where the collar screws on. I didn't use teflon tape because the union has an oring and I didn't think it would make sense. Especially considering that unions exist to allow you to disconnect things, and I didn't think it made sense to teflon tape a connection I would be unscrewing from time to time. You can't really reuse the tape.

mmoore0803 · #**115** 12/29/2005, 01:25 PM

Great use of your christmas present...eesh

Instaead of plunging your loc line return a foot into your tank just have it return at just about the level of your overflow teeth or at least have the ends of the return nozzles at that point so it breaks the suction/siphon..as for your return pump noise....someone else is going to hafta help as I have no idea....is it just the vibrations against the tank?

Fmellish · #**116** 12/29/2005, 01:54 PM

It's a noisy motor for which the noise if amplified since it is hard connected to everything. The other pump, (same model), is connected through soft vinyl tubing and the noise is the same but at a much much lower volume.

Fmellish · #**117** 12/29/2005, 01:54 PM

I'm tellin ya, that book is VERY useful

Fmellish · #**118** 12/29/2005, 01:55 PM

Bump

Need help

http://members.cox.net/jgunder/aquarium/

mmoore0803 · #**119** 12/29/2005, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fmellish
I'm tellin ya, that book is VERY useful

I can see that

mmoore0803 · #**120** 12/29/2005, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fmellish
It's a noisy motor for which the noise if amplified since it is hard connected to everything. The other pump, (same model), is connected through soft vinyl tubing and the noise is the same but at a much much lower volume.

Is the pump submerged in your sump or outside? If it is in water, can you put it on a sponge...maybe that would absorb some of the vibration being amplified by the sump and other plastics that are attached.....or use vinyl tubing to attach the pump to the harder PVC?

Fmellish · #**121** 12/29/2005, 03:58 PM

The sponge sounds like a good idea. However the plumbing was measured and glued with the pump on the sump floor. I can't raise the pump without putting stress on the pipes.

mmoore0803 · #**122** 12/29/2005, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fmellish
The sponge sounds like a good idea. However the plumbing was measured and glued with the pump on the sump floor. I can't raise the pump without putting stress on the pipes.

cut and reglue leaving room for noise dampening spongey material beneath it

Fmellish · #**123** 12/29/2005, 04:24 PM

Listen Mr. smarty pants!

There's water in there now. I'd have to drain my sump. and then it would be days for the glue to dry so I don't make the water toxic.

What do you think of that!

Fmellish · #**124** 12/29/2005, 04:25 PM

Yeah I suppose I could do that.

I also thought about taking the stand and tank full of water to a car audio place and havng them install Dynomat all over so it's quieter.

mmoore0803 · #**125** 12/29/2005, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fmellish
Yeah I suppose I could do that.

I also thought about taking the stand and tank full of water to a car audio place and havng them install Dynomat all over so it's quieter.

that was gonna be my 2nd suggestion.....you didn't put a valve between your pump and drain? pump and return?