DIY Coil Denitrator Plans - Page 7

rsman · #**151** 08/08/2007, 01:15 PM

you dont put the entire output of the pump down the coil read back i think there are pictures, but a simple T will do fine, especially if the long leg of the T is not hooked to anything

depending on what pump you have you may need to adjust the output at the long end of the T(using above setup) so more or less is pushed into the coil, but use a valve on the output to adjust the final drip rate.

timrandlerv10 · #**152** 08/08/2007, 02:11 PM

ok. makes sense.

so cycle flow is 1 drip/second, and full flow is...well, whatever gets me 0/0/0 amm/ites/ates?

hal9000a · #**153** 08/08/2007, 02:24 PM

thanks rsman, it's easyer that way

rsman · #**154** 08/08/2007, 02:59 PM

so cycle flow is 1 drip/second

its just a starting point, for .170 coil, you can do slower, you can do faster, but you will have to adjust it, or wait.

and full flow is...well, whatever gets me 0/0/0 amm/ites/ates? EXACTLY

kysard1 · #**155** 08/08/2007, 06:32 PM

So where does the Nitrogen gas come out of this unit ? Do you see it bubbling out the output?

rsman · #**156** 08/08/2007, 07:00 PM

So where does the Nitrogen gas come out of this unit ?
hopefully out of the output, if it came out the in, that would just be funky

Do you see it bubbling out the output?
the thing that needs to be understood is these dont just kick on and wipe out all nitrates. generally you wont see bubbles, but the top of the chamber will collect gases

sevise · #**157** 08/09/2007, 03:01 AM

Has anyone ever tried using LR rubble instead of Bioballs?

32flavors · #**158** 08/09/2007, 03:04 AM

Yes, I asked that a few pages back, and was told that unlike a Sulfur denitrator, which needs a pH correcting factor--bioballs are best for coil denitrators

slandis3 · #**159** 08/09/2007, 06:54 AM

what would be a good size for a 400g system?

rsman · #**160** 08/09/2007, 08:41 PM

32flavors: Thanks

slandis3: your going to need to provide much more information than that, how fast do your nitrates rise, what do you want them to be, what space requirements exist. and anything else important

slandis3 · #**161** 08/09/2007, 10:09 PM

nitrates stay around 40 all the time. I want to get them as low as posible. Pretty much unlimited room. Its a reef system.im not sure what else you need. I have some 6" pvc laying around if that would work.

rsman · #**162** 08/09/2007, 10:20 PM

an hour before your routine water change what are the nitrates?
an hour after your routine water change what are the nitrates?
how much water do you change?

slandis3 · #**163** 08/10/2007, 12:03 AM

i will check tomorrow. I am going to change water then

rsman · #**164** 08/10/2007, 02:02 PM

slandis3: one more Q b4 you post how long between water changes?

slandis3 · #**165** 08/10/2007, 09:30 PM

usually 30 days. I got called into work so i didnt have time to do one today. My water changes are so far apart because I work so much. Thats why i want to build on of these.

Alaska_Phil · #**166** 10/15/2007, 11:34 AM

Ok, after reading through this thread twice I think I'm ready to build mine. It's for a 50 gal reef with moderate bio load and no sump, no deep sand bed. So sounds like I need 50' to 60' of 1/4"OD coil, in about 18" of 3" PVC with bio balls to fill it.
Sound about right?

Phil

mwood · #**167** 10/20/2007, 12:02 PM

This thread still open, it's an old one?

I have a 300+ gallon system I'm considering a denitrator for. I currently have my trats down to 40 with a 32gallon bucket DSB. I have 4" and 6" PVC in the guarge I'd like to use. Would a 24" tall 4" unit with 3 50' runs of .170 stuff be well balanced? With a 300 gallon system I'm temped to go bigger but I hear you saying to balance the unit.

How about 4 runs and a 36" unit?

32flavors · #**168** 10/20/2007, 03:30 PM

I'm not sure but that size is usually recommended for 100-125 gallon systems. It is balanced though. Maybe use more than 1?

rsman · #**169** 11/04/2007, 09:23 PM

been away lets see what i can still remember:

slandis3: did you still wanna build one, what were your numbers?

mwood:
24"x4" with 3 50' runs sounds like a great starting point, but 4 or 6 runs wont be too much for a 24"X4" unit.

ive always pushed adding coils vs using 2 denitrators, there is no requirement that any of the coils be INSIDE the chamber while they do add surface area basically for free. you can put the coils outside this lets you expand the system as needed, so build small and upgrade

InADream · #**170** 11/04/2007, 10:36 PM

Hey Rsman could you go over the procedure for adjusting the drip rate... I have a 18" x 3" PVC with 50' of coils, I just built it and need the instructions to adjusting the rate and how long till you run it full speed

Thanks

Dream

mwood · #**171** 11/06/2007, 09:12 PM

Should I be monitoring nitrates and nitrites of water output during cycling? I'm only about 2 weeks into cycling and assume the speed up slow down recommendation is for post cycle.

t-bone2 · #**172** 11/06/2007, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mwood
Should I be monitoring nitrates and nitrites of water output during cycling? I'm only about 2 weeks into cycling and assume the speed up slow down recommendation is for post cycle.

I would monitor both producing nitrites speed up slowly nitrates slow down slowy no matter if its breakin or broken in

cb747 · #**173** 11/11/2007, 01:04 PM

Hey all i have a question. Im making my own coil reactor. Its a 4 foot section of 4 inch PVC. I was going to cut it down but now im thinking. If i run 120 feet of .170 ID diameter hose into the reactor and then fill the reactor up with bio balls would i be able to increase my flow thru it as opposed to cutting it down to 36 inches high with 100 feet of the same tubing with approx 1 gallon of bio balls? Thanks for the advice

My tank volume is approx 200 gallons give or take a little. High bio load as well.

rsman · #**174** 11/11/2007, 07:43 PM

Ok Im back. just a note as stated before, I am out of the fish breeding business so I will respond on here when I have time PM or E-Mail me if you need a faster response. also for those that read the entire thread some of these responses have been dummed down to see if it helps.

Hey Rsman could you go over the procedure for adjusting the drip rate... I have a 18" x 3" PVC with 50' of coils, I just built it and need the instructions to adjusting the rate and how long till you run it full speed
the process is the same for any amount of coils and of any size

1)run them until there is no air in the coils and chamber Id hesitate to put a minimum time frame on it but I would time how long it takes from when you hook it up until when water flows out the output, then run it full open for that much longer. while waiting it might help to turn your unit upside down shake it around and whatever you can to get all the air out. no need to get blazing acuracy here just get the air out. plus if you break it here its better as you will be sitting in front of the unit.

2) close down the valve(s) you used until no water flows

3) open up the first valve run it as slow as you can time how long it takes to fill an 8oz cup to exactly 8oz. let it run like that for an hour and time it again, if it slowed down then speed up the flow a notch do #3 until it doesnt slow down after an hour

4) if you have more than 1 coil goto #3 for each coil

5) let the unit run for 3~5 days or so

6) test nitrite/nitrate

7) if there is no nitrite go back to step #2

8) if there is a little nitrite (less than 1ppm or so) and there is nitrate go back to step #5

9) if there is a lot of nitrite ( greater than 1ppm or so) and there is nitrate speed up the flow a little bit then goto #5

10) if there is a lot of nitrite and no nitrate speed up the flow significantly then go back to #5

11) if there is no nitrite and no nitrate open up the flow completely and goto step 5

then as a suppliment if you have been thru the loop for a few weeks and your still not increasing flow restart the unit, going back to step #2

[b]Should I be monitoring nitrates and nitrites of water output during cycling? I'm only about 2 weeks into cycling and assume the speed up slow down recommendation is for post cycle.[b] NO, the speedup slow down is NOT for post cycle, post cycle you should be leaving these things alone just verify there not cloged and dont touch it.

I would monitor both producing nitrites speed up slowly nitrates slow down slowy no matter if its breakin or broken in once the unit is broken in, and assuming nothing noteworthy has happened between your last waterchange you should not be adjusting your unit, there bio filters they dont respond instantly to huge changes in your waters quality IE a BIG fish dies and decomposes in your tank! if you try to micromanage these they will fail.

Hey all i have a question. Im making my own coil reactor. Its a 4 foot section of 4 inch PVC. I was going to cut it down but now im thinking. If i run 120 feet of .170 ID diameter hose into the reactor and then fill the reactor up with bio balls would i be able to increase my flow thru it as opposed to cutting it down to 36 inches high with 100 feet of the same tubing with approx 1 gallon of bio balls? Thanks for the adviceeither to back and re-read this thread or read it for the first time, if you still have this question then the answer is buy one dont build it.

cb747 · #**175** 11/11/2007, 08:51 PM

I should have edited my post. Ive read a bunch of threads and i should cut my tubing in half. Approx 60 feet each and run them both into the reactor and have one output. Ill cut down the pipe to probably 30 inches or so and add the bio balls. I am guilty of asking first before reading!