New 60 gallon Zoo Frag Tank

rkcca · #1 09/25/2007, 10:55 PM

Just got done adding some frags and some colonies from my display to my new tank. I'll be growing mostly zoanthids, ricordeas and yumas.

This is a 48X24X12 with a 40 gal breeder as a sump housing a ASM G3 Mesh/Gate Mod. I drilled the bottom and installed a corner overflow. There is on Korila 4 for flow in addition to a Mag 7 return pump.

Right now it's running a Hamilton 250w fixture with a 10 K bulb running 6 hours a day. I'll be switching to 14 K soon as this is not blue enough for me.

All I need is an auto top off and I'll be set.

What do you think so far? Any suggestions for feeding to get maximum growth and color?

lvpd186 · #2 09/26/2007, 07:10 AM

Looks really good to me! I would suggest two small changes though; for one, very simple, move your heater to the sump and increase it's depth a little. And secondly have you thought about making the height of the light adjustable? It looks pretty high up in the photo, but everything looks like it is happy so maybe its a non-issue. Very nice looking setup though, very clean!

MJAnderson · #3 09/26/2007, 07:53 AM

Was going to say the same thing. You can put the G3 on an eggrate platform to raise it up a bit so you can increase the water level in the tank. More water volume=more stability.

How high up is that light?

Rickyrooz1 · #4 09/26/2007, 08:55 AM

where did you buy your 60 gallon tank? I can't find a 48"x24"12"

rustybucket145 · #5 09/26/2007, 09:21 AM

Looks good! One thing though... something doesn't look level to me.... can't quite put my finger on what's outta whack but it might be worth using a level just to check everything.

Other than that, looks great!

Rickyrooz1 · #6 09/26/2007, 09:25 AM

It's because the camera was slightly tilted when the picture was taken.

derrikd · #7 09/26/2007, 09:59 AM

OK stupid Question do you need a skimmer of you have no fish in there?

rkcca · #8 09/26/2007, 08:44 PM

The light is way high as the corals just came out of QT from under my ghetto shop light (left side of FTS). The rest were at the bottom of my display under 14K. The 10K puts out more PAR and I don't want to burn any of the corals. As soon as I get the 14K this weekend, I'll start dropping the fixture. It’s being held up by pieces of wire so adjusting is easy as replacing with a longer length.

I'm going to raise the water level in the sump too. That's why the heater is in the tank. I've been too lazy to get more NSW. I've been getting 40 gallons a week for my display, QT and this tank. I guess I'll make one extra trip this weekend.

The tank is level as you can see the water just under the front rim. I guess I should have rotated the picture 1 degree before cropping. As soon as the QT next to the tank is empty, I'll center the light bar and it will appear more symmetrical. I bought a few more zoas that need a few weeks more isolation.

As for the skimmer, I won't run a tank without one. The G3 is probably overkill but the price was right. I got it from a fellow reefer here on RC.

I'm going to put a piece of cloth in the front in lieu of doors to hide all the equipment.

The tank and stand came from OC Aquatic at the end of Reefapalooza. It was cheap because they did not want to haul it back to the shop.

Now I have to find some uncommon frags to grow out to colonies.

bradford · #9 09/26/2007, 10:48 PM

that looks really great! i was doin some zoo fraggin today and i wanted to know what method you use. I have been using a razor blade very carefully to cut off a little patch of "skin" and glue it on a inch by inch tile. sometimes this gets very hard and i inevitably end up slicing off some polyp heads. do u have any tips?

rkcca · #10 09/26/2007, 11:43 PM

I'm not a professional, so someone may say I do it wrong but...The method I usually use is to take a razor blade and work it into the rock just below the polyp. This leaves a little bit of rock stuck to the foot and something to attach the super glue. If there are several freed polyps together, I then cut the mat apart with small sissors. I then glue a polyp or two to a plug. It seems that two or more polyps together have a better chance and grow more babies.

I used to use super glue gel. After accidently buying the standard stuff, I found it works better for zoas. Plus, the tube tends not to permenately seal itself as often as the gel. For SPS, gel is the only way to go as it makes a pile of glue to insert the frag.

I would not worry about cutting of too much foot. Most of the time they will be fine.

bristle · #11 09/27/2007, 08:48 PM

This helped me. The guy is kind of safety conscious, but a good read nonetheless.

http://www.zoaid.com/articles003.php

Chaotic Reefer4u · #12 09/28/2007, 06:45 PM

very nice frag tank, keep up the good work!

bradford · #13 10/05/2007, 05:42 PM

thats a cool link thank you

Dave VG · #14 10/06/2007, 06:49 AM

Good job looks real nice

peterink · #15 10/08/2007, 07:31 PM

I also found out that zoas loves actinics. I use 4 x 54W ATI HO AquaPlus and the colors on my zoas are strong and dense..IMO

rkcca · #16 10/08/2007, 10:48 PM

Here are some happy residence under Phoenix 14K's.

Ed Ricketts · #17 10/09/2007, 09:40 AM

RKC
What method have you chosen to ensure the safety of your NSW? I know there are lots of opinions, I was interested in your experience (what vessel do you collect in, if and how you QT the water, and so on). Looks great. With your setup, those zoas should be carpetting the bottom in no time. A buddy of mine has tremendous growth, but he feeds (minced everything) a bunch. Any thoughts on that front?

M

rkcca · #18 10/09/2007, 07:33 PM

NSW comes from an LFS. They get it from Scripps Institute in San Diego. There is a deep water trench just off the beach and the water is sand filtered.

I've been using their water for years without problem. I check for specific gravity and replace as normal. I avoid getting water shortly after storms due to possible polution.

As for feeding, the fish get pappone with half the sugar and the coral get the left overs.