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  #26  
Old 10/13/2006, 08:08 PM
douggiestyle douggiestyle is offline
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perfecto is owned by marineland.and as a matter of fact i have there # in a file of use and care manuals right here next to my puter.
800-322-1266

my lfs ordered one for me. try your lfs.
  #27  
Old 10/13/2006, 11:47 PM
pito pito is offline
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Thanks Doug. I actually just found perfectos web site through marinlands. Gonna drop them an email.
  #28  
Old 10/14/2006, 08:24 AM
Michael Mota Michael Mota is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by pito
Well I guess since only my front panal will be viewable, polishing would'nt be worth it. It only has a couple very small scratches. They probably wont be visable with water in the tank.
I decided not to replace the top trim as I want to add a eurobrace and plan to have my hood overlap the top portion of the tank. I cant find a lose spot on the trim at all and I cant even get to any of the silicone. Looks like I need to contact a manufacture. I think the tank is a perfecto but can't find any contact info. You would'nt happen to have it? By the wat what thickness is that glass? Mine is 1/2"
Polishing is a real pain in the buttocks thats why I only did the front glass pane. I too have a few scratches but they are on the outside and I really think they will not distract from viewing the tank. I think home depot may sell a chemical that can help to loosen/remove the silicone. I have no experience with using chemicals to soften/loosen silicone so maybe someone else can chime in on this. As far as the trim try the all glass aquarium site and contact them to see if they sell it or maybe that company called glasses cages. I am not sure who sells the trim but thats were I would start again maybe some one who has purchased trim before can pm you with more info. The euro bracing will work well and eliminate the plastic braces from the original trim which will allow the light to shine through the tank with out shadows. My glass thickness is 1/2" but this is a custom built/homemade tank, the guy I bought it from actually made the tank.
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  #29  
Old 10/14/2006, 11:45 AM
Michael Mota Michael Mota is offline
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Got the tank together!! The silicone is mostly dry but I will wait seven days before doing anything to the tank. I did clean it up today. I also decided that I need to drill one more hole for another 1" bulkhead so that way I will have two 1" bulkheads going into a 1 1/2" pipe to feed the Dart closed loop pump. After doing that I just have to cover the hole in the lower portion of the overflow. Got the acrylic but still waiting on the adhesive to arrive (weld on 3).

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  #30  
Old 10/14/2006, 12:20 PM
pito pito is offline
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Looking good my friend. I also plan on useing the dart for my closed loop as well. However, I'm useing a 2" bulkhead to feed it. What size return pump will you use to feed the sea swirl?
  #31  
Old 10/14/2006, 04:01 PM
Michael Mota Michael Mota is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by pito
Looking good my friend. I also plan on useing the dart for my closed loop as well. However, I'm useing a 2" bulkhead to feed it. What size return pump will you use to feed the sea swirl?
The closed loop dart pump is actually running on my90 reef, I will just be transfering it over t the 125. Same for the return pump, I will be using the mag 1800 for a return pump. Now before you guys say thats too much flow let me say I actually use this pump to run the chiller, calcium reactor, denitrator and ofcourse the return to the tank. I really like the mag 1800 because it is very quiet and in three years this pump has given me no problems ( I just jinks myself, lol) I am entertaining the idea of getting a ocean runner pump for the return because it uses less electricity but the only thing that is holding me back is I do not know anyone who uses this pump, nor do I know how reliable these are so for this reason I think I will be staying with the mag1800.
I am just waiting for the silicone to cure and then i can finish up the tank and begin on the stand. I do plan on painting the back and sides of the tank a true blue color. This tank will only be viewed from the front. Oh and thank you for the comments. On a good note I have aquired most of the parts I need to begin making the calcium and the kalk reactors. Stay tuned theres more to come.
Mike
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  #32  
Old 10/16/2006, 11:01 AM
Michael Mota Michael Mota is offline
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Painted tank

OK I have had some time these past few days to do a few things to the tank. As you can probably see I finished drilling the final hole and installed all of the 6 bulkheads. I also gave the back and sides a coat of royal blue rustoleum paint using a roller. I figure two more coats of paint should do very nicely. Once that is done I will check the tank to make sure it holds water even though I am confident it will. Remember this tank will only be viewed from the front thats why all three side are being painted.
I am still undecided on the type of wood to use for the cabinet/wall unit. I was thinking that oak would look nice but after seeing a piece of maple wood I fell in love with the grain of the maple. The thing is I am not sure if maple would hold up to the moisture and abuse of the salt water. Any one who is experienced with wood could give me some insight as to whether maple would be good enough for a cabinet, that would be appreciated.
Here is the tank getting it first coat of paint:
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  #33  
Old 10/16/2006, 02:53 PM
Michael Mota Michael Mota is offline
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Cabinet Design

Here is what I drew up as far as what the cabinet may look like. I am still playing with this design and I am undecided about a few things. The whole idea is to make this more like a wall unit. It will house all the equipment and maybe some extra room for extras. Any feed back will be appreciated.

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  #34  
Old 10/16/2006, 03:20 PM
cdentii1 cdentii1 is offline
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I would place the electronic Ballast by the power center and the refugium where the ballast are that way you can feed the refugium directly to the tank for minimal pod loss.
Chiller is fine however most people will not place a chiller in the cabinet due to heat build up in most cases it is almost like defeating the whole purpose instead place the chiller outside of the cabinet and have a larger sump.
This is just my 2cents worth.
  #35  
Old 10/16/2006, 03:28 PM
cdentii1 cdentii1 is offline
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Even better yet you could get one of those tall skimmers such as a ASM G6, Aqua C EV400, or a ETSS 900, just to name a few Skimmer. and do away with the book shelf or relocate it to shelf between the refugium and frag tank.
Man I am getting excited and cant hardly wait to see what you will be doing.

Last edited by cdentii1; 10/16/2006 at 03:42 PM.
  #36  
Old 10/16/2006, 03:33 PM
Michael Mota Michael Mota is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by cdentii1
I would place the electronic Ballast by the power center and the refugium where the ballast are that way you can feed the refugium directly to the tank for minimal pod loss.
Chiller is fine however most people will not place a chiller in the cabinet due to heat build up in most cases it is almost like defeating the whole purpose instead place the chiller outside of the cabinet and have a larger sump.
This is just my 2cents worth.
Yep that seems viable, placing the refugium up top like that would be better for the pods but would also require an additional pump unless I can feed it off of the return pump some how. Definitely something to think about.
The chiller will be a complete DIY setup and will have a vent to the outside during the summer months and in the winter I will remove the vent and just have the heat go back into the room to help with heating of the home in the winter. I plan on setting it up so it actually removes air from under the cabinet and vents it to the outside.
Thank you for the opinion and I will really think about the refuigium idea for I think it is a good one.
Thanks
Mike
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  #37  
Old 10/16/2006, 03:42 PM
Michael Mota Michael Mota is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by cdentii1
Even better yet you could get one of those tall skimmers and do away with the book shelf or relocate it to shelf between the refugium and frag tank.
Man I am getting excited and cant hardly wait to see what you will be doing.
I will be keeping my skimmer I have now which is running on the 90. I do not feel the need to spend more money than needed, lol Book shelf must stay cause I really want one built into the cabinet. Got some books that really need a home. Bear with me my friend, this project will take some time to complete thanks to my job that I have to work. I hate work
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  #38  
Old 10/16/2006, 03:54 PM
Michael Mota Michael Mota is offline
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New cabinet design

OK here is the new design, I changed a few of the equipment places due to a suggestion from a fellow reefer. Thanks for the idea, looks like it will work out really well.
Here is the new design:

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  #39  
Old 10/16/2006, 03:54 PM
cdentii1 cdentii1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Michael Mota
I will be keeping my skimmer I have now which is running on the 90. I do not feel the need to spend more money than needed, lol Book shelf must stay cause I really want one built into the cabinet. Got some books that really need a home. Bear with me my friend, this project will take some time to complete thanks to my job that I have to work. I hate work
Yea I know the feeling I also have a 125g and it is still sitting empty in the living room as we recently moved and there are some projects the we need to get done first like wiring needs updated and actually thinking about getting a substation, fish room in basement ect (just thinking ahead for the really large tank), and the wife wants new carpet as well however the home had a addition put on and it settled so now we have to jack up the addition before carpet and don't really want to tear down a 125 for a couple of months delay and not to mention the risk of livestock loss. so until then I will be lurking about gathering new ideas and so forth. as far as the skimmer I can understand.
  #40  
Old 10/16/2006, 03:57 PM
cdentii1 cdentii1 is offline
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Re: New cabinet design

Quote:
Originally posted by Michael Mota
OK here is the new design, I changed a few of the equipment places due to a suggestion from a fellow reefer. Thanks for the idea, looks like it will work out really well.
Here is the new design:

Me Likes
  #41  
Old 10/16/2006, 04:04 PM
cdentii1 cdentii1 is offline
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also make sure that the power station is 100% water proof the last thing I am sure that you would want is a leak or flood of some sort into the power station and trust me when I was 16 I didnt realize that the old drip loop was so important until I had saltwater run into the power outlet at my parents and caught the house on fire......
  #42  
Old 10/17/2006, 09:02 PM
pito pito is offline
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I hope you don't mind me useing some ideas from your stand.
How many tubes of silicone did you use to rebuild the tank? BTW, I contacted Perfecto & All Glass via. email. They both said that I need to go through an LFS to get the trim.
  #43  
Old 10/18/2006, 10:23 AM
Michael Mota Michael Mota is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by pito
I hope you don't mind me useing some ideas from your stand.
How many tubes of silicone did you use to rebuild the tank? BTW, I contacted Perfecto & All Glass via. email. They both said that I need to go through an LFS to get the trim.
Nope I do not mind at all, in my opinion thats what these threads are for. Use any ideas you would like to. I am glad you where able to get some info on the trim now if I ever need to buy it I will know how to get it. I actually went out and bought 5 tubes of silicone just in case but I used almost four tube of the stuff. I did put it on heavy in the bottom section to hold the trim also, the overflow was put in along with the glass center brace and the top trim all at the same time that way all the silicone would dry at the same time and create a nice seal. Of course I used tape on the corners so when I peeled it off it left a decent looking seal not perfect but decent, I was in a hurry when doing it by myself. I highly recommend some help when doing this. Take care
Mike
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  #44  
Old 10/18/2006, 10:28 AM
Michael Mota Michael Mota is offline
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OH I almost forgot to mention the tank has been given its final coat of Rustoleum Royal Blue on its back and both sides. I went really thick on the paint. I will let it sit for a while to let the paint cure and then it will be time to test the tank to see if it will hold water. I also need to paint a room for my parents so that will put this project on hold for a few days.
Take care all,
Mike
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  #45  
Old 10/19/2006, 11:27 AM
pito pito is offline
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My project is in slow motion as well due to some home renovations. I noticed that you never got an answer to the american dj power supply thing. I have seen them on ebay pretty cheap. I assume that you used aquarium silicone, and not the stuff GE makes, Right? Where was the cheapest you found?
Are gonna make the stand and the side towers all one piece ( or conected )? The reason I ask that is would'nt one piece make it hard to get to anything behind the tank? I was thinking of doing the two towers as seperate pieces. This way if there's an emergency behind the tank, I'll be able to take them off for easier access to back of tank. Let me see if I can mod your pic to show what I mean.
  #46  
Old 10/19/2006, 11:47 AM
Michael Mota Michael Mota is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by pito
My project is in slow motion as well due to some home renovations. I noticed that you never got an answer to the american dj power supply thing. I have seen them on ebay pretty cheap. I assume that you used aquarium silicone, and not the stuff GE makes, Right? Where was the cheapest you found?
Are gonna make the stand and the side towers all one piece ( or conected )? The reason I ask that is would'nt one piece make it hard to get to anything behind the tank? I was thinking of doing the two towers as seperate pieces. This way if there's an emergency behind the tank, I'll be able to take them off for easier access to back of tank. Let me see if I can mod your pic to show what I mean.
Nope I used 100% silicone labeled by Ace Hardware store. I have used it in the past and never had a problem and the stuff is cheap too.
As far as the cabinet/wall unit goes it will be built in five pieces. There will be the bottom section that will help to distribute the weight to more rafters, the tank stand, the two cabinets and the hood front. This way it will be lighter and easier to carry up the stairs. Then once in place all the piece will come together and sit on top of the bottom section and I will some screws to hold it. This will allow me to also take it apart if i ever move. I think for access to the back both cabinets will have a piece of wood that will be on hinges and can be opened up for access to the back when needed. In other words the whole thing will be away from the wall and the cabinet with a extension on the side will make it look like everything is up against the wall kinda of like a door. Hope that you can understand what I just said.
Tank is sitting in the basement all ready to get wet tested. I need to get some caps at Lowes to cap off all the bulk heads and then I will be ready to test it. Maybe a few more days before that happens cause I started to paint my parents bed room and I need to finish that first.
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  #47  
Old 10/19/2006, 11:49 AM
pito pito is offline
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Well, I could'nt upload the pic for some reason. So, I added it to my gallery. As you can see, I circled the portions of the stand that I feel should be seperate. Let me know what you think.
  #48  
Old 10/19/2006, 11:54 AM
pito pito is offline
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I understand what you're saying and me likes! I'll definately be following your build. Sounds like you thought this out.
  #49  
Old 10/19/2006, 12:05 PM
Tiki G. Tiki G. is offline
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Nice job on the tank. I couldn't decide on what color to paint the back, I wanted black, but the gal friend wanted blue....so it's blue. Looking forward to the cabinet project.
  #50  
Old 10/19/2006, 01:20 PM
Michael Mota Michael Mota is offline
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Hey Pito,
Here is a pic of the stand and what I did was circle the different sections. Since this thing will be 9 feet long i think it is best to make the cabinets and stand so it can be place on the bottom/platform once in place. This way it will be much easier to move up and down stairs or through the window



On this next pic is to show the side of the cabinet. You can see what I was talking about when I said there will be a door in the back for access

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