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#26
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perfecto is owned by marineland.and as a matter of fact i have there # in a file of use and care manuals right here next to my puter.
800-322-1266 my lfs ordered one for me. try your lfs. |
#27
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Thanks Doug. I actually just found perfectos web site through marinlands. Gonna drop them an email.
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#28
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Quote:
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#29
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Got the tank together!! The silicone is mostly dry but I will wait seven days before doing anything to the tank. I did clean it up today. I also decided that I need to drill one more hole for another 1" bulkhead so that way I will have two 1" bulkheads going into a 1 1/2" pipe to feed the Dart closed loop pump. After doing that I just have to cover the hole in the lower portion of the overflow. Got the acrylic but still waiting on the adhesive to arrive (weld on 3).
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#30
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Looking good my friend. I also plan on useing the dart for my closed loop as well. However, I'm useing a 2" bulkhead to feed it. What size return pump will you use to feed the sea swirl?
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#31
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Quote:
I am just waiting for the silicone to cure and then i can finish up the tank and begin on the stand. I do plan on painting the back and sides of the tank a true blue color. This tank will only be viewed from the front. Oh and thank you for the comments. On a good note I have aquired most of the parts I need to begin making the calcium and the kalk reactors. Stay tuned theres more to come. Mike
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#32
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Painted tank
OK I have had some time these past few days to do a few things to the tank. As you can probably see I finished drilling the final hole and installed all of the 6 bulkheads. I also gave the back and sides a coat of royal blue rustoleum paint using a roller. I figure two more coats of paint should do very nicely. Once that is done I will check the tank to make sure it holds water even though I am confident it will. Remember this tank will only be viewed from the front thats why all three side are being painted.
I am still undecided on the type of wood to use for the cabinet/wall unit. I was thinking that oak would look nice but after seeing a piece of maple wood I fell in love with the grain of the maple. The thing is I am not sure if maple would hold up to the moisture and abuse of the salt water. Any one who is experienced with wood could give me some insight as to whether maple would be good enough for a cabinet, that would be appreciated. Here is the tank getting it first coat of paint:
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#33
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Cabinet Design
Here is what I drew up as far as what the cabinet may look like. I am still playing with this design and I am undecided about a few things. The whole idea is to make this more like a wall unit. It will house all the equipment and maybe some extra room for extras. Any feed back will be appreciated.
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#34
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I would place the electronic Ballast by the power center and the refugium where the ballast are that way you can feed the refugium directly to the tank for minimal pod loss.
Chiller is fine however most people will not place a chiller in the cabinet due to heat build up in most cases it is almost like defeating the whole purpose instead place the chiller outside of the cabinet and have a larger sump. This is just my 2cents worth. |
#35
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Even better yet you could get one of those tall skimmers such as a ASM G6, Aqua C EV400, or a ETSS 900, just to name a few Skimmer. and do away with the book shelf or relocate it to shelf between the refugium and frag tank.
Man I am getting excited and cant hardly wait to see what you will be doing. Last edited by cdentii1; 10/16/2006 at 03:42 PM. |
#36
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Quote:
The chiller will be a complete DIY setup and will have a vent to the outside during the summer months and in the winter I will remove the vent and just have the heat go back into the room to help with heating of the home in the winter. I plan on setting it up so it actually removes air from under the cabinet and vents it to the outside. Thank you for the opinion and I will really think about the refuigium idea for I think it is a good one. Thanks Mike
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#37
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Quote:
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#38
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New cabinet design
OK here is the new design, I changed a few of the equipment places due to a suggestion from a fellow reefer. Thanks for the idea, looks like it will work out really well.
Here is the new design:
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#39
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#40
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Re: New cabinet design
Quote:
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#41
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also make sure that the power station is 100% water proof the last thing I am sure that you would want is a leak or flood of some sort into the power station and trust me when I was 16 I didnt realize that the old drip loop was so important until I had saltwater run into the power outlet at my parents and caught the house on fire......
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#42
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I hope you don't mind me useing some ideas from your stand.
How many tubes of silicone did you use to rebuild the tank? BTW, I contacted Perfecto & All Glass via. email. They both said that I need to go through an LFS to get the trim. |
#43
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Quote:
Mike
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#44
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OH I almost forgot to mention the tank has been given its final coat of Rustoleum Royal Blue on its back and both sides. I went really thick on the paint. I will let it sit for a while to let the paint cure and then it will be time to test the tank to see if it will hold water. I also need to paint a room for my parents so that will put this project on hold for a few days.
Take care all, Mike
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#45
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My project is in slow motion as well due to some home renovations. I noticed that you never got an answer to the american dj power supply thing. I have seen them on ebay pretty cheap. I assume that you used aquarium silicone, and not the stuff GE makes, Right? Where was the cheapest you found?
Are gonna make the stand and the side towers all one piece ( or conected )? The reason I ask that is would'nt one piece make it hard to get to anything behind the tank? I was thinking of doing the two towers as seperate pieces. This way if there's an emergency behind the tank, I'll be able to take them off for easier access to back of tank. Let me see if I can mod your pic to show what I mean. |
#46
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Quote:
As far as the cabinet/wall unit goes it will be built in five pieces. There will be the bottom section that will help to distribute the weight to more rafters, the tank stand, the two cabinets and the hood front. This way it will be lighter and easier to carry up the stairs. Then once in place all the piece will come together and sit on top of the bottom section and I will some screws to hold it. This will allow me to also take it apart if i ever move. I think for access to the back both cabinets will have a piece of wood that will be on hinges and can be opened up for access to the back when needed. In other words the whole thing will be away from the wall and the cabinet with a extension on the side will make it look like everything is up against the wall kinda of like a door. Hope that you can understand what I just said. Tank is sitting in the basement all ready to get wet tested. I need to get some caps at Lowes to cap off all the bulk heads and then I will be ready to test it. Maybe a few more days before that happens cause I started to paint my parents bed room and I need to finish that first.
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#47
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Well, I could'nt upload the pic for some reason. So, I added it to my gallery. As you can see, I circled the portions of the stand that I feel should be seperate. Let me know what you think.
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#48
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I understand what you're saying and me likes! I'll definately be following your build. Sounds like you thought this out.
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#49
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Nice job on the tank. I couldn't decide on what color to paint the back, I wanted black, but the gal friend wanted blue....so it's blue. Looking forward to the cabinet project.
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#50
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Hey Pito,
Here is a pic of the stand and what I did was circle the different sections. Since this thing will be 9 feet long i think it is best to make the cabinets and stand so it can be place on the bottom/platform once in place. This way it will be much easier to move up and down stairs or through the window On this next pic is to show the side of the cabinet. You can see what I was talking about when I said there will be a door in the back for access
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