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#26
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Keep in mind that I have contacted any the major tank builders IE: All Glass and Perfecto...If you discribe your tank, and which pannel you insist on drilling, they will tell you yes or no on the tempered glass.... ALL 55 gallon tanks are TEMPERED!
Jason By the way... Great post.... can we just referr everyone to this from now on... holes seem to be very common topic... maybe lock this in... |
#27
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"if you get 4 or more holes out of each bit you are way ahead of the game"
Guess i wasnt thinking how many holes u can get out of the bits i was just thinking wow 10 bucks, so u are probably right derek, i have used one tile bit on 7 holes 4 1.5 & 3 1.0 inch the 4 i.5 where on 1/2 inch thick glass & the other 3 where on 3/8 guess im back to square one oh well.. there is nothing like making a perfect hole but i just cant see paying over 50 bucks to only get 10 to 12 holes,cutting glass is so easy most people brake the tanks cuz they use to much pressure & not enough water.
__________________
"Never Give Up Never Surrender" |
#28
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You really should not have any problems breaking tanks... I just spin the drill at a fast to moderately fast speed, try and keep the area wet with water, and use very little pressure against the glass. Also NEVER try and drill on tempered glass! Usually the tank will have a sticker on the pane of glass if it has been tempered. Also if you are concerned you can call the manufacturer and ask which panes of glass on your size tank are tempered.
Good luck and have fun. |
#29
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This needs to be a sticky. Great info. I was talking to a guy locally who wanted $35.00 to drill each hole! I told him he was nuts and this thread proves it. (I think I'll e-mail this to him)
Ed C
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The true measure of strength is not how many trials you have faced..... but rather how you face each trial. |
#30
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#31
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Here's a link to my Nano-Reef thread. I just cut bulkhead holes for my 20L with a dremel.
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/show...threadid=63483 |
#32
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#33
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I've also been using the bits from richon-tools and so far I've been able to drill atleast 6 holes for 1" bulkheads and atleast 12 for 1/2". I keep thinking that this is the last hole for this bit but they just keep on going. I'm very happy with the bits and the cost, cannot beat it anywhere. Also as far as breaking tanks while drilling I have drilled through 3 of my own tanks varying is size from 50G to 10g and have never had even a close call.
Rich |
#34
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If you are cutting small diameter holes through thinner glass (like drilling a smallish tank to use as a sump for instance) the bit will last many holes for sure. I managed only 2.5 holes with the 60mm bit for my 1.5" Bulkhead and I wimped out. I stopped using the bit because I thought maybe it wasnt cutting well anymore. So I ordered a new bit off of Ebay because they are so super cheap and I did not want to risk the tank. So my bit came in the mail and I finished my last big hole on the back glass of my 120g tank. The original 60mm diamond hole saw probly could have finished hole number three but I chickened out. It is really very easy and just about anyone should be able to do this. |
#35
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When drilling holes, how far apart should the holes be at least?3inches from center?? Is there a rule of thumb?so you don't risk undo stress on the glass.
Also how far away from the sides of the glass should you stay? EXAMPLE A-------Distance from edge? MINIUM? B-------Width between holes? MINIUM? |
#36
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A general rule of thumb is to stay the diameter of the hole away from all edges.
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#37
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Thanks does that apply to the holes in example B also?
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#38
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that avitar is 2 funny LOL.
__________________
"Never Give Up Never Surrender" |
#39
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#40
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Thanks for the info. Also is there a limit to how many holes can be put on one tank side?
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#41
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This thread has given me the blind confidence to try this myself. The local glass company wants to charge me $20 per hole. I ordered a 45mm and 60mm and should be able to do all the holes I need for less than $20.
Thanks!!
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Chris My son said I should have been a potatoe bug farmer. |
#42
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Just be sure when you are starting the hole you want the bit at an angle to the glass surface. It you try to start drilling the hole with the diamond hole saw flush to the glass surface it will be very very difficult to control the bit and it will want to "ice-skate" around all over marring the surface before it starts biting into and cutting the hole. Start at about a 45 degree angle to make it easier to get the hole started. Then later restart the hole squarely against the tank surface using the half area of hole that is cut into the tank to help keep the bit from skating around.
Soon you will see how easy it is. Good luck. |
#43
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JustOneMoreTank, nice job! Question on your overflow walls/weirs, you must have built those youself right? How did you do that?
Thanks |
#44
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Sticky!
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#45
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They sell Drill guides that will keep your hole saw in one place.....If you plan on drilling many holes, it might be worth it to buy one?
Drill guide on Ebay
__________________
Its what you learn, after you know it all, that counts! |
#46
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I have a 50 gallon Oceanic, I am tired of the CPR overflow losing it's siphon. . .
I would like to drill "teeth" into the back of the tank and then attach an oveflox box. Any advice? I have a dremel with the router attachment. Which bit should I use to rout the teeth?
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Click the red house. . .check out the new 120. . .tell me what you think! |
#47
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Hmmmmm, I'd like to see pics of that when your done!!
__________________
Its what you learn, after you know it all, that counts! |
#48
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it seems simple enough. . .drill .25" wide by .5" tall holes and space them an inch apart, nine holes, about 600 GPH, no siphon loss. . .
someone shoot some "holes" in my theory. . .LOL
__________________
Click the red house. . .check out the new 120. . .tell me what you think! |
#49
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Sounds like it would work....Just kinda scary when your the first one to try!!
__________________
Its what you learn, after you know it all, that counts! |
#50
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