$200, my day off, and my new diy calcium reactor! - Page 5

andro · #**101** 05/13/2005, 12:11 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by craby
FYI -
The 1/4" tap is called 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Thread), or 1/4 - 18 (18 threads per inch).

I wander how we can make a ventury for the CO2. Supposedly this would break up the CO2 into smaller bubbles before it hits the pump.
Maybe we could use 1" PVC to just before the pump inlet, bushing it down to 1/2" & use a 1/2 x 2" nipple w/ a short piece of tubing inside the nipple. Tap the nipple & go through the tubing, & connect nipple to pump w/ a 1/2" threaded coupling. The other side could remain flex tubing for movement option.

Do y'all think this would work?

Haven't made mine yet, but I still think that it will force water out. The whole system is pressurized from what I could gather, because if you use a MJ1200 to pump water from the tank to it, the 1/4" line to feed back to the tank will restict the flow enough to force water out of any available hole.

craby · #**102** 05/13/2005, 12:27 PM

Why not put the effluent valve between the supply pump & the reactor? That way you don't create unnecessary back pressure on the reactor. Also, this would help keep the valve from getting clogged w/ calcium deposit.

Scott S · #**103** 05/13/2005, 12:48 PM

What a simple concept. I have been working with acrylic trying to make one (still fixing leaks).

My only concern is the screw for the red vent and contact with the saltwater.

I also made my stand pipe with a bunch of small holes instead of sawblade slits.

Pics in my gallery.

em21701 · #**104** 05/13/2005, 03:23 PM

craby: you want the effluent on the other side because if it were in the front it would put fresh CO2 into your tank instead of into the reactor. On the out side you'll still get some but it will be less.

Scott S: I also have my concerns about the screw for the vent, but it looks like it is stainless steel. I'll be sure to inspect it after it has been running for a while. Depending on the type of Stainless used it can still rust. I'm supprised they didn't use a nylon screw for that.

OxInYourBox · #**105** 05/13/2005, 03:31 PM

Yeah that is true. I'm thinking if I can find a 1/2" PVC cross then it will cut down on the media loss. With the price of the project it's well worth playing around.

Most C02 inputs have been 1/4" (as it comes from the solenoid/regulator as such) but I don't see a reason why you couldn't convert from 1/4" to 3/8".

craby · #**106** 05/13/2005, 03:43 PM

em21701,
What I ment by effluent valve was the valve that regulates the amount of the effluent put back in the tank. I have my 1/4" John Guess fitting valve before the reactor on another reactor that leaks when I have it after the reactor. My thoughts of this leak are because of the typical reactor having flanges & rubber gasket which are prone to leaks under pressure.

I don't think this reactor would have the same problem, but if there was ever a problem w/ the soleniod valve, the back pressure may push effluent back through the bubble counter and into the regulator (if the solenoid valve failed).

One thing I thought would happen w/ the valve before the reactor would be that the CO2 would replace the water in the reactor, but that has not been the case on my other reactor. For this reason it may just be an added safety feature to have the valve before the reactor to protect the regulator.

Dragonmaster · #**107** 05/13/2005, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by em21701
craby: you want the effluent on the other side because if it were in the front it would put fresh CO2 into your tank instead of into the reactor. On the out side you'll still get some but it will be less.

Scott S: I also have my concerns about the screw for the vent, but it looks like it is stainless steel. I'll be sure to inspect it after it has been running for a while. Depending on the type of Stainless used it can still rust. I'm supprised they didn't use a nylon screw for that.

I just pumped silicone into the screw area and covered it up!

Dragon

Scott S · #**108** 05/13/2005, 06:07 PM

DUH! that would work great.

I am going to see what it looks like in a month or two.

WmTasker · #**109** 05/13/2005, 08:12 PM

Wow .... its amazing to see how crazy this thread is going while Im at work. I get home on a Friday night and have a dozen post to read just to catch up.

Im having problems getting the pH in my reactor to drop below 7.0. Everytime I think I get the bubble count right, I come back a few hours later and the bubble count has slowed down. Any thoughts from anyone? This is my first reactor and it was easier to make than to get dialed in.

craby · #**110** 05/14/2005, 08:33 AM

WmTasker,
Milwakee regulator - Try fully closing the large black handled valve & opening the brass needle valve. Slowly turn the black valve until bubbles start rumbling through your bubble counter like a hard boil. Then close the needle valve until you get the desired bpm.

WmTasker · #**111** 05/14/2005, 11:15 AM

Thanks Craby. I did just that last night and when I woke up today I had the same bubble count as last night.

I have a bubble count of like 90/min, effluent of 50 mL/min, and a pH of 6.7 coming from the reactor.

em21701 · #**112** 05/16/2005, 07:42 AM

WMTasker, Are you using a ball valve or did you find a needle valve for you effluent?

WmTasker · #**113** 05/16/2005, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by em21701
WMTasker, Are you using a ball valve or did you find a needle valve for you effluent?

I have a little ball valve that has the john guest fittings on both sides. I just plugged it in to the 1/4" hose coming out of the reactor back to the sump.

WmTasker · #**114** 05/16/2005, 09:39 AM

This is the one I have

em21701 · #**115** 05/16/2005, 09:50 AM

That's what I have also, is it difficult to set the flow rate? Based on the size of my tank I'll only need 1/3 the ouput you have. I'm just wondering if I should try to find a plastic gate valve or needle valve to control the output.

giomacri04 · #**116** 05/16/2005, 11:13 AM

Ok im new to the hobby. and ive wanted to make one for a while now this is yet the best design. it's so simple but yet it works great from what i read .

Well my question?. is can some one make a diagram of where the
hose's go cause i have no clue of where to put which hose.

like the one with ball valve and which house gose back into the tank

i have a clue i get how it works but i rather be safe than sorry.

well thanx for all the help in advance .

and keep up the great diy pojects .

em21701 · #**117** 05/16/2005, 11:21 AM

Give this a try

Nemo_0916 · #**118** 05/16/2005, 12:55 PM

em21701 .. that's a GREAT looking reactor you got there!

giomacri04 ... thanks for asking the questions and thanks em21701 for the pic ... i was wondering the exact same thing .. much more clear now ..

WmTasker · #**119** 05/16/2005, 12:56 PM

em21701

Very nice. I was thinking about doing the same thing when i saw the post, but you beat me to it

WmTasker · #**120** 05/16/2005, 01:00 PM

DragonMaster

How many mL per minute of effluent do you have coming from your reactor? I am having trouble keeping my bubble count below 100/min. and the pH at 6.7. I thought I might have to much effluent coming out. It is about 50 mL per min. right now.

giomacri04 · #**121** 05/16/2005, 02:01 PM

thanx the pic is great i am in the process of getting the parts will post pics when done thanx agasin

em21701: hey what pump did you use ? and is it powerfull enough ?

ReefRatz · #**122** 05/16/2005, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by em21701

Give this a try

Do you pump the water in from the sump to the reactor or its gravity fed from your Main tank's overflow or drain?.
It seems line the water from the tank is going in the discharge side of the pump?

giomacri04 · #**123** 05/16/2005, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ReefRatz
Do you pump the water in from the sump or its gravity fed from your Main tanks overflow or drain?

i beleav when you ad water to it and you turn on the pump the force of the water movement from the pump will act like a syphin and suck the water to the reactor

giomacri04 · #**124** 05/16/2005, 02:39 PM

em21701: The ball valve is that their to regulate how much
is going back into the tank.

em21701 · #**125** 05/16/2005, 03:17 PM

Wow a lot of questions to answer!
giomacri04:
I have a mag 5 attached, based on what I've seen that should be overkill, but I had one already so the price was right.

I don't think there is enough flow throught the reactor to start a siphon, I havent gotten my CO2 regulator yet so I haven't run it with media in it to know for sure. I'm feeding it with my sump return pump which should be able to overpower the reactor pump if there is an outward pressure created. The ball valve is there to regulate how much effluent is returned to the tank. I would like to use a gate valve but I haven't found one in plastic yet.

Reefratz:
I am feeding the tank water from my sump return into the discharge side of the reactor pump. I have a mag7 on my return so it should over-power the mag 5 on the reactor if a siphon is not created (which I'm fairly certain it's not)