Another 225 Tank Project! - Page 4

Foster · #76 01/07/2004, 11:39 AM

Good Questions! Keeps me double checking everything...thanks!

Quote:

Originally posted by H20ENG
Lookin good, Dude!
You may want to put in a bypass line from the ro/di feeding the reactor. With the float setup having the ro on for longer periods, you may overdose the kalk.
You could set it up with a couple of small valves. Restrict each one to set a good flow rate for the reactor and still feed the sump straight DI water for topoff. It may be easier to just feed the reactor separately though.
Sorry to hear of your delay. At least you were somewhat prepared for the wait.
Chris
PS, Thanks again for the sand!

Hey Chris! Im going to tee it off as you suggested when you were over, so not all the RO/DI water will go through the reactor. Glad you can use the sand, I look forward to seeing some home made rock

Quote:

Originally posted by class219frog
You might want to take all your 90Dg elbows an use 2 45's instead. I ran in to a flow problem with 180G. once i put in 45's it made the water fall into my sump almost twice as fast.

I just threw the 90s on for now, I would like to use 45s, but space is limited, once I get the tank installed and plumbed, I will see if I can get away with the 45s. I will be usings 2" flex PVC, so hofully it will work.

Quote:

Originally posted by harryehooper
You mentioned a flat top overflow box. I had one of those one time and found that snails would go over the top, get in the plumbing, restrict the water flow, and cause a tank overflow. I use overflows with teeth/slots now. The snails won't climb out of the water to go over the top.

In going to use egg crate ran to top of glass inside the overflow to keep the large things out of the overflows, I wont put in any snails that are small enough to fit through the egg crate. I need the flow rate, and cant afford the flow loss by using slots (because of the surge) Every pro has a con.

...sam

Foster · #77 01/10/2004, 10:06 PM

01/10/04 - Tank Arrives: This morning I was able to pick up the tank from Aquarium Solutions with the help of a couple of friends. The weight of the tank empty is a little over 400 lbs. Everything seems to be in order as far as the changes to the overflows and the placement of the holes. The craftsmanship of the LeeMar tanks are top notch and I realy like the euro bracing designs! Here are some pics of it on the stand, some of the pics might be hard to make out, its kinda tough taking a picture of a clear box!
Tank Dia: 72x30wx24, the overflows dia: 6x9" w/ 2" PVC drains

Quicksilver · #78 01/10/2004, 10:31 PM

Nice!! I can't wait to see it set up. William

Quicksilver · #79 01/10/2004, 10:59 PM

I see the wakeboards hanging on the wall. Still riding? William

gumbybc · #80 01/11/2004, 12:28 AM

Man, I cannot wait to get a place of my own, and a job so I can afford a big tank. I like your setup, very nice.

steve68 · #81 01/11/2004, 08:05 AM

that is one SWEETT tank!!!!!
please set it up fast

& i like the truck nice !!!!
that is one awesome stand

gumbybc · #82 01/11/2004, 03:26 PM

I gotta give a thumbs up to the truck too!!! Chevy/GMC is the only way to go. it seems platapus likes to do everything right!

vapovick · #83 01/11/2004, 04:01 PM

Great work !

/tag/

Foster · #84 01/12/2004, 12:33 AM

Thanks everyone!

Quote:

Originally posted by Quicksilver
I see the wakeboards hanging on the wall. Still riding? William

I still ride in the summer time, not as much as I would like to though.

Quote:

Originally posted by gumbybc
I gotta give a thumbs up to the truck too!!! Chevy/GMC is the only way to go. it seems platapus likes to do everything right!

thanks!

Foster · #85 01/13/2004, 01:22 AM

01/12/04 - Plumbing: I have started the plumbing on this pig, most of it is 1.5" and 2" PVC. In the second pic, is the 2"PVC Durso standpipe to help cut down on noise, for now I will
just run them high, and then adjust them once the they are full of water. The last pic it the limewater reactor that has finally been completed!

gumbybc · #86 01/13/2004, 02:21 AM

Looking good man! Looking good. My little 4x2x3 stand/project keeps looking smaller and smaller.

Fish-o-holic · #87 01/13/2004, 02:25 AM

Very nice. Tagging along as usual. When do you expect this "pig" to be up and running?

Foster · #88 01/16/2004, 12:57 AM

01/17/04 - Plumbing/Surge: Moving right along, I have finished most of the plumbing. Below is a couple of shots of the sump returns as well as one of the overflow drain that splits off
into the refuge. On the stand pipes I choose to tap in a 3/8" ball valve to control the noise/air intake.

Foster · #89 01/16/2004, 12:58 AM

Surge: I have begun building the surge tank out of 1/4" acrylic. The dimension ended up being 30.5"L x 25"W x 16"H for a total of 52 gallons. The surge tank will cantilever over the
main display 4.5" so that the surge outlet will have a 24" straight shot into the display. The opening on the top of the surge is minimal to help reduce noise. I have also equipped the with an
overflow as a safety precaution.

remora · #90 01/16/2004, 02:28 PM

Looks sweet! One question though. How do you plan on getting that monster in the house when you're done with it? Can't get it in in one piece, can you? (Ok 2 questions!

)

minfinger · #91 01/16/2004, 02:39 PM

platapus,

On the top of your tank, that big pipe is your only return? And it goes to those 3 90 degree elbows, right? Were you planning on having any surface agitation? That's one thing I did not account for when I built my prop system. Unfortunately, it was an easy fix, I just modified some plubming in one tank and put a few powerheads in the other.

I think it's one of those things that a lot of people don't think of. A great way to push a lot of water around is to make you own nozzle with a 3" peice of PVC. The SCH-40 works the best. Take a heat gun or boil some water. You get one end heated up and pinch a little bit with your fingers. And then curve it just a tad. It will fit perfect back in any fitting and does wonders for giving the water a little bit of pressure at the tip and for surface movement.

Foster · #92 01/16/2004, 02:41 PM

the stand is 2 pieces lagged together, all of the plumbing has unions at different points so that it comes apart easy.

Foster · #93 01/16/2004, 02:45 PM

If I understand you questions.........

Im running a 52 gallon Carlson Surge Device, I predict that will agitate the waters surface, as well as creating a mass over flow.

Quote:

Originally posted by minfinger
platapus,

On the top of your tank, that big pipe is your only return? And it goes to those 3 90 degree elbows, right? Were you planning on having any surface agitation? That's one thing I did not account for when I built my prop system. Unfortunately, it was an easy fix, I just modified some plubming in one tank and put a few powerheads in the other.

I think it's one of those things that a lot of people don't think of. A great way to push a lot of water around is to make you own nozzle with a 3" peice of PVC. The SCH-40 works the best. Take a heat gun or boil some water. You get one end heated up and pinch a little bit with your fingers. And then curve it just a tad. It will fit perfect back in any fitting and does wonders for giving the water a little bit of pressure at the tip and for surface movement.

Zephrant · #94 01/17/2004, 12:24 AM

Plat- 30x25x16 is a little large for 1/4" extruded- Keep and eye on it. Each time it fills and drains it flexes the panels, which has a slight chance of fatiguing the joints.

You might want to reinforce the corners with gussets to help a little.

Zeph

minfinger · #95 01/17/2004, 09:40 AM

What are gussets?

Plat,

As low in the water as those elbow appear to be, I don't think they're going to do that good of a job.

I can't wait to see you test it. I'd be interested in more detail pictures of your plumbing and a schematic if you have one.

Foster · #96 01/17/2004, 01:53 PM

Zephrant - I wasnt sure on stock size, I thought 3/8 might be overkill since it is only 16" high. I think he gussets are a good idea, just in case

Minfinger - The 2 elbows that are in the pic are for the sump return only, those arent going to be the exact hieght of them (they are not glued) Im just trying to ge an idea.

2 of the elbows are for the sump return, the other is for the surge. It might make better sencce once I start the water test, should be with in the week.

minfinger · #97 01/17/2004, 02:57 PM

Sounds good...Send some pics

Alberio · #98 01/17/2004, 03:23 PM

1. My favorite part of RC is keeping up on great projects like this, thanks!

2. I hate people who have bigger sumps than I have display tanks!

3. Your plumbing boggles my brain.

Foster · #99 01/17/2004, 04:21 PM

lol - I think it is the return that splits into 2 that is creating confussion, it a little hockie, but Im going to give it a shot

Here is a quick schema I just made to help clarify. Kinda sloppy, so bare with me

The AM3000 is the sump return / laminate flow. The 2 returns for it have ball valves so I can adjust the flow of each one to my liking. The MAG9 fills the surge tank every approx 5 mins. The fuge it "T" off the overflow return with a ball valve. I can split the return evenly, or can choose to go out one. I will be able to dial this in once I fill it with water. Thats it, its not too fancy.

The sump has a second bulkhead installed that I capped off so that if need more circulation down the road, I can add a second AM3000.

minfinger · #**100** 01/17/2004, 05:32 PM

I see where the confusion is coming from! You can only see the return from the Surge box in 1 picture. And it's confusing because it's not actually plumbed into the tank. I now undersand everything

I don't ever glue the ends of my returns. Good plan!