Lots of equipment but i dont know what im doing - Page 2

GuOD · #26 02/13/2007, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jeffbrig
Blazer, does shooting in RAW give you more control to smooth differences in exposure in post-processing? I'm constantly amazed by how evenly lit your subjects appear.

You may know this already but the difference between raw and jpeg is that RAW stores data for every single pixel, so when making adjustments you have full data. Jpeg is compressed and slightly post processed by the camera.

His subjects may seem well lit because he uses a high aperture so it's all in focus and then makes sure the exposure is right.

Blazer88 · #27 02/13/2007, 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GuOD

His subjects may seem well lit because he uses a high aperture so it's all in focus and then makes sure the exposure is right.

Using a high aperture will give you more depth of field but that doesn't necessarily mean everything will be well lit, that has to do with how the picture is exposed (metering is important here). But shooting in RAW will make it easier to recover any details later on in post-processing. The picture of my firefish below was taken at F/2.8 leaving just the nose/mouth in focus yet everything is still exposed well.

jeffbrig · #28 02/13/2007, 10:49 PM

I know what you mean, I'm just wondering if any of the RAW importers allow "exposure smoothing" for lack of a better term. Something to combat the too-bright on the top, too-dark on the bottom that you get sometimes when shooting in a tank. With the raw pixel data, it seems like you would have an opportunity to play around, but I don't know if the tools support it.

Here's an example in a shot I took yesterday. The topmost tip of this branch is very bright, maybe a little overexposed. The rest of the shot is a little underexposed, to my eye. This shot was taken straight on from the side of the tank to avoid distortion, but that brings in the uneven lighting problem.

(btw, this isn't what I'd call a great shot. It was a quick handheld shot of a new coral, taken with the EF 100 2.8 macro)

Another example, good exposure for the topside, dark elsewhere.

Blazer88 · #29 02/13/2007, 11:14 PM

Processing in RAW can really help out in situations like that. I do notice that my lighting is much better when comparing it back to the original jpeg (I shoot in RAW+jpeg). But you can also easily correct lighting issues with PS as well, which I almost always do even after processing the RASW. The picture of the mushroom below is much different than the jpeg. The mushroom was actually really dark but I changed it in PS so it stood out from the rocks. It's easy to darken/lighten certain areas that you are trying to showcase, it's all in the books that I posted

jeffbrig · #30 02/13/2007, 11:59 PM

I think my next step is to buy one of those books.

Blazer88 · #31 02/14/2007, 12:00 AM

It's always best to start corrections with RAW processing, but here is a quick PS edit on your first SPS shot.

GuOD · #32 02/14/2007, 12:02 AM

Quote:

Using a high aperture will give you more depth of field but that doesn't necessarily mean everything will be well lit, that has to do with how the picture is exposed (metering is important here). But shooting in RAW will make it easier to recover any details later on in post-processing. The picture of my firefish below was taken at F/2.8 leaving just the nose/mouth in focus yet everything is still exposed well.

Yep, I know that. It's just usually when parts are in the background OOF/bokeh they will look dull/darker so thought I'd mention that part

I should try taking another sps shot later to see what I come up with... been needing an ID anyway.

xxxbadfishxxx · #33 02/14/2007, 09:32 AM

Blazer, can we see before and after pics of that mushroom?

GSMguy · #34 02/14/2007, 09:39 AM

i love that mushroom pic

Rosseau · #35 02/14/2007, 11:18 PM

watching along...

Rosseau · #36 02/14/2007, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Ebn
This might be of help.

http://www.photoworkshop.com/canon/

Here's a full PDF from one of them.
http://photoworkshop.com/canon/EOS_Digital.pdf

Take a moment and go through some of it. It should give you a basic understanding of the camera and how you can use it. From there, start shooting and then post some pictures for some guidance.

Without trying to stray... I found this almost immediately under the first link there.

http://photoworkshop.com/canon/contest/ls1.html

This photo won a contest for XTi's or something..... is there not a giant reflection from glass or something in the middle of this image?

BeanAnimal · #37 02/15/2007, 12:17 AM

Those photos are breathtaking... I guess I need to go back and get schooled some more.

GSMguy · #38 02/15/2007, 09:49 AM

i think i need to hire some one to sit here and help me

newhere · #39 02/15/2007, 12:20 PM

Blazer88 - very nice pics what lens are you using for these shots. I have the 30d and need a new lens for macro.

Blazer88 · #40 02/15/2007, 02:53 PM

I wouldn't look any further than the EF 100mm F/2.8 lens, it's an amazing piece of glass.

GSMguy · #41 02/15/2007, 02:55 PM

what blazer said

cschumaker · #42 02/16/2007, 02:32 AM

Don't forget to use mirror lockup for your macro shots, which will also help eliminate any vibration in the camera. It is custom function 7 in an XTi.

Blazer88 · #43 02/16/2007, 10:23 AM

I almost hate to admit it, but I've never used the mirror lock-up. I just read up about it and it seems very useful. I have always wondered if the mirror would cause any motion blur when shooting macro shots...now I know. Woohoo! Something new to try! lol

gregr · #44 02/16/2007, 06:46 PM

The general rule for mirror lock-up is that it's most useful for shutter speeds between 1/2 and two seconds.