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  #776  
Old 01/02/2008, 04:12 PM
funkyman funkyman is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lorain, Ohio
Posts: 516
When I have to make an adjustment, it's very small. I normally only have to move the gate valve knob 1/4" - 1/2" either way. I don't have to touch it again until I turn the return pump off for some reason, usually at feeding time.
  #777  
Old 01/02/2008, 06:41 PM
robertifly robertifly is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Milan, Tn
Posts: 156
I also never have to touch a valve unless it has been powered down like funkyman and that is just to get the flow started good in the drain and that's just to keep from listening to all the water going down the emer. drain. Usually just open valve a full round to get it going faster, it will pick it up by itself like in a power outage but then I'm mot home to here if I am I turn give the valve a turn. My drains are both 1.5" and the reg. drain is t'd off to feed the reguim.
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  #778  
Old 01/02/2008, 10:48 PM
jacmyoung jacmyoung is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 1,357
If the fluctuating water level is an issue, consider making the drain pipe shorter so you have more vertical space for the water level to rise and fall without sucking air into the drain and causing noise.

My drain pipe stands half way in my overflow with a screen on top, simplest arrangement you can get, and tolerates the water up and down very well. The noise first comes from the waterfall splash if the water level is 6" or more below the top of the overflow box, yet still no comparison to the noise from if the drain is sucking air, and since my tank top is covered with glass the noise is further dampened. I have yet got to the point that my drain would suck in air before the water in the overflow self-regulated to a higher level.

Another reason for the success maybe that my return pump chamber in the sump is very narrow and tall, my return pump fits just all the way down the chamber, and there again is about a good 6" of vertical water level change before the pump will suck in air. So I basically have 6" head pressure play on each end to work out between the two of them for auto adjustment.
  #779  
Old 01/02/2008, 11:21 PM
trmiv trmiv is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 2,544
I've been using this method on my new 65 because the AGA megaflow (more like megaphone!) was so frigging loud. I was amazed how quiet it was the first time I tried it, and it appears to work great. I only have to do minor adjustments maybe once a week.
  #780  
Old 01/08/2008, 11:05 AM
yankeereefer yankeereefer is offline
OT Aluminum Chef
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Napertucky
Posts: 1,046
I've been working on a tank for a couple days now -

I drilled the bottom glass for a durso and man is it noisy - I can't get the water adjusted right with the cap-

I don't have enough room in the overflow box for a 2nd standpipe - Will this still work if I drill a primary drain on the back wall (inside the ofb)?

I think it will so long as my water level in the box is between the primary drain and the bottom of the durso intake.

Thanks in advance!
 


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