125g setup...the wall.....shook... - Page 11

Scuba_Dave · #**251** 01/25/2004, 10:03 PM

Built a 9' x 38" bench down in the fish room to hold a frag tank & refugium. I left enough room underneath to upgrade my sump to a Rubbermaid stock tank.
Now I just need to figure out where to put my top off & water change drums

Scuba_Dave · #**252** 01/25/2004, 10:18 PM

Ok, let see if I can post a pic of the Hippo.
For size comparison, that's a 1.5" elbow in the picture

gumbybc · #**253** 01/25/2004, 10:28 PM

That Hippo is so awesome! I heard that they do not have a high chance of survival when they are that small. has this been your experience?

Another question: Do the overflows you have setup skim the surface well, or would an overflow box skim the surface better? I am putting one in my 29g but not sure if I want to bother installin an overflow box or just doing it like you have it. Thanks for all the help.

Scuba_Dave · #**254** 01/25/2004, 10:39 PM

3 people bought them from our club, all the same size. So we'll soon see how they do. Another club member bought on at this size & his is now 5".
I'm feeding cyclopeze & he is alos picking at algae & small flake food when I feed other fish

I have dual overflows at one end & one return pointed across the top from the end . So I get a good surface flow towards the drains. No surface film at all. We have other club members who have used similar setup w/good results - 30g, 55g & other tanks

gumbybc · #**255** 01/25/2004, 10:43 PM

Thanks. An overflow box would be too obtrusive in my small 29g, in my opinion. I will be interested to see how the small guy does. I love those tangs, someday... :-)

Scuba_Dave · #**256** 01/25/2004, 10:58 PM

And here is a top view of my hood. The 2 blue lines are angle iron that is bolted to the center piece of wood. Each 6' piano hinge is under the angle iron. Each side flips up for easy access. With the 4 holes drilled for electric, there isn't a lot of wood left for support, hence the angle iron.
If I had it to do over (and I might). I would simply have (2) 9" top pieces & each side would flip up. Only a 2x4 as cebter piece underneath w/MH attached. I would still use the angle iron on each side for support
I had to wait until the wife was gone for the day so I could make a mess in the main room

Scuba_Dave · #**257** 01/26/2004, 10:09 PM

Well after 6 weeks & unpacking 60+ boxes I finally found my VHO setup. Figures just after I bolt the hood together. Now I need to either unbolt the hinges & drill a hole to slide the wires in, or figure out another way to run them.
I hate wires inside the hood

partagas · #**258** 01/26/2004, 11:14 PM

can't wait to see pix of the whole thing set up. So far everything looks great Dave. Now I am even more afraid to do this at my place.

Scuba_Dave · #**259** 01/27/2004, 10:05 AM

It's not that bad. Most of the problem is moving AND setting the new tank up at the same time. I would have prefrered to move & then plan out the 125g install better. But I'm going slow, tank has been up & running over 6 weeks now. I'm making progress in the fish room.
Just glad it's winter, I wouldn't want to be doing all this & "trapped" in the house during the summer. When I go to setup the 180g I'll be doing a lot different.
Good learning experience

partagas · #**260** 01/27/2004, 11:22 PM

Well keep posting and teaching us. So far you are helping more then you know.

Adam101 · #**261** 01/28/2004, 12:21 AM

Im just tagging along its a rockin setup

Scuba_Dave · #**262** 01/28/2004, 10:04 AM

Thanks Adam
My basement has been at 49.9 with all this cold weather. I have even insulated the sills (well 1/2 so far). The fish room area sills are all insulated, and I caulked a sill in furnace room that was letting a lot of cold air in.
There are 5 single pain (I DO mean PAIN!) windows in the basement, 1 of whihc is broken, and all are poorlyu sealed. 2 of these will be "enclosed " when I add on the 2 car garage (1 of these will be cut down to be a door from garage to basement). The other 3 windows will be replaced w/new windows in the spring.
The basement entrance is a 32" door, I am going to build an insulated wall against the existing cement wall & install a new 36" door instead. The current door is not sealed & is another major loss of warmth.
Basement was up to 60 w/30 degree weather
I have a 30-40 sump down there at present. This will be upgraded to a stock tank. I built the 9' x 3' shelf to accomadate up to a 48" wide x 34" tall sump/stock tank. The stock tank will stick out from shelf on one end. The shelf is approx 34" deep & the stock tank is 52" long
There aren't any basment ligt switches/outlets, so I am also working on running wiring/lights/outlets. At the same time I am labeling/documenting all breakers & what they control
I need another 10 day vacation....

Groove · #**263** 01/28/2004, 10:07 AM

Keep at it. You are keeping me motivated.

What kind of head pressure are you pumping?

How many heaters are you running?

Scuba_Dave · #**264** 01/28/2004, 10:22 AM

On the return pipe I have (3) 45 degree bends to get thru the floor, then a 90 bend to get over the tank. I then run along the tank & "T" off at each cross brace to a 3/4" line w/ball valve & 12" locline - total of 3 = 1 for each 2' "section"
There is 6' from pump to floor, 34" stand, and 24" deep tank (+2" to get over tank)
So total of about 11'. I'm currently using an Iwaki 70 - max 1500gph. According to Reef Central figues I should be pumping a little over 1400gph. This sort of equates out, as I need 1.55" of drain to accomadate 1400 gph. I have (2) 1.5" drains, and if I shut one off, the tank will slowly overflow (enough time to run to the basement & unplug the pump!!)
I am going to have an "emergency" pump shut off in the cabinet beside the tank
I was initially running a 350w in the tank, and a 350w in the sump. I have since shut off the 350w inthe tank & will be removing it. I will be adding a 150w - just in case - emergency heat thru an Inverter if needed. I added another 150w in the sump with all the cold weather we have had.
Once the 75g fuge/frag is connected (if it is & not stand alone), I will add another heater to that - 200w maybe
I have so many heaters.....good idea to have spares
I am planning on having my 55g as a "fragging tank", where I will actaully frag the corals. Then I will have the 75g as the grow out tank. That's the plan as of today, always subject to change

Really nice to get that bench in, starting to look more like a fish room & less like a pile of junk

Automated top-off is my next step---I think

Groove · #**265** 01/29/2004, 10:05 AM

I need a top off system as well. I think I'm loosing about 1.25 gallons a day.

I have about a 125 gallon total system right now and notice that my 250 watt and 350 watt heaters are on a majority of the time. I keep the room at about 68 degrees. I was a little suprised how much it takes to heat water 10 degrees over room temp.

Let me know when you get the new electric bill...

Scuba_Dave · #**266** 01/29/2004, 10:15 AM

We recd new electric bill, $132, but the 55g had not been moved to the new house. The electric bill came from the old house, about $80. We have switched from Gas stove & dryer to electric stove & dryer. At least that is the excuse I am using. The next bill should be a doozy. I just can't wait.....

My salinity creeps up with evaporation, so getting the fish room bench up & running & a top off in place is (one of) my next chore(s)

nancysnuwave · #**267** 01/29/2004, 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Groove
I'm loosing about 1.25 gallons a day.

Any thoughts on a glass cover over the main tank?

Scuba_Dave · #**268** 01/29/2004, 10:53 AM

Glass will keep the heat in, plus will need to be cleaned quite often, or it will cut down on the light. I prefer to add Kalkwasser as top off, so I'm not too worried about evaporation. Once my hood is totally enclosed the only evaporation will be (mostly) from my sump in the basement. And I may partially enclose that once I have the system stabilized w/a Ca reactor

nancysnuwave · #**269** 01/29/2004, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Scuba_Dave
Glass will keep the heat in,

Re: keeping the heat in, in a 68 degree room, that doesn't seem all bad.... just MHO.

Scuba_Dave · #**270** 01/29/2004, 11:09 AM

It's summer time that I am worried about. My basement will (if my mom's basement is any indication) go up to 76 on a hot August day. Then the (3) 250w MH bulbs are going to VERY quickly raise the temp of the tank over 84. I would prefer to top off, rather then run an A/C. It's a lot easier to avoid heating the tank up, then to try to cool down a hot setup.
I don't have a really good place to install an A/C in the main room, other then the front of the house. Which is an eyesore.
Plus I've done the glass cleaning bit, didnt like it.
The sun is on the back of the house, so hopefully I will be OK. Plus if I need to I can put an A/C in the back room to cool off the house, or upstairs, or maybe central air w/addition

Adam101 · #**271** 01/30/2004, 03:26 PM

Hey Dave, Heatwise I have 4 small computer case fans on My 55 gal hood with 500w of MH and the fans keep the heat down to nothing I get ZERO increase in temp from them there are 2 on each end and the blow in to keep from sucking saltspray and My back is open, For you you would prob keep some open areas on top since you can see the back of your tank, The fans can be taken from Old PC's or from Old computer powersupplies that can be had on ebay cheap( search AT powersupply) and I just rip them apart and Then keep 1 powersupply and that powers the fans( Hummmm 12v of power that dosent break the bank) and they work EXTREAMLY well, they are easy to wireup with extra length cord like lamp cord, as for the windows have you considered just puting standard wall insulation in them for the winter, It would block the light obviously so that would be a tradeoff, Just some Ideas. Adam

Scuba_Dave · #**272** 01/30/2004, 03:39 PM

Thanx Adam. I actually have 4 Orion fans that push high cfm (85cfm & 110 cfm). I had 2 on my 60g - 1 on sump & one on the tank. Kept it cool on all except the hottest days.
By next winter the basment will be fully insulated w/new windows (not worried about it this year). The front patio will be enclosed/insulated. And there will be a 2 car garage on one side of the house. The back will have 1/2 of the length taken up with a sunroom.
And there will be an additional 75g tank & 100g stock tank in the basement....plus...?...

At present I have (4) 1.75" holes in the top where the wiring runs. These may be enlarged this summer. One or two fans will be mounted on one end to push air thru the hood. In addition I am looking at exhausting the heat up & out of the house thru the 2nd floor. Another option will be to have the fans sucking cool basement air from below & pushing that into the hood

I'm planning on running a large amount of tubing when they pour the 2 car garage foundation/floor (25' x 36') for additional cooling during the summer if needed.
Glass tops just aren't an option for me. I can always simply insulate to keep something warm. But want to avoid the cost of a chiller.

Trying to keep my options open

websiteworld.com · #**273** 01/30/2004, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Scuba_Dave
Last pic of the night. Close-up of the drilled holes. Just a little bit of chipping after drilling. I drilled from the inside out, so the chips are on the outside. Totally covered by the bulkheads. 2.5" holes, for a 1.5" thruput.
Ready to plumb, sumps are in the basement. All plumbing supplies have arrived, EXCEPT:
ordered 90 elbows from MarineDepot along w/rest of $180 order. They were out & sent rest 2 day Fedex (already recd). They backordered elbows, just recd shipping confimation.
They shipped them from CA GROUND....***!!???
I just love idiots...I sent them a p!ssed off E-mail asking *** they were doing. Waiting to hear....

You have a crack in the upper left hand corner of the tank in the corner, did you notice?

Dubge · #**274** 01/30/2004, 07:19 PM

I have some nice blue led fans.....maybe they would make a nice moon light kit. Dave if you need computer fans I think I have a bunch kicking around

Ray

Scuba_Dave · #**275** 01/30/2004, 11:08 PM

Actually the "crack" was silicone, thought the same thing when I saw it