jbj nano, stndrd nozzle or hydor flo?

[quaz]

I just set up my 12gal nano dx and have a maxi 600 hooked up to the fan nozzle that comes standard with the tank. I'm not sure if I like continious strong flow. the tanks still got the two pc bulbs and i plan on having lps, rics, and zoas. thanks for the input.

[PSam]

Hydor Flo really kills the flow. Continuous stronger flow better than weak rotating flow. If you must have a Hydor Flo, get a mj900 or 1200 to put in the back.

[mchembree]

Don't want to hijack this thread, but I have a related question. Our used 24g jbj DX came with a modded pump assembly. It had a Rio14 pump (840gph, 45w) with a "Y" loc-line return. One end of the loc-line "Y" terminates in a narrow/flat piece that shoots water out in a flat/thin line of flow about 1.5" across; the other end of the loc-line "Y" contains a little tube on every other loc-line "joint" so that a little bit of this arm's flow is distributed from each little tube.

We've since replaced the powerful but high-watt pump (it was heating our water too much) with a maxijet 1200, and added a hydor koralia nano on the other side of the tank.

We were thinking of getting a hydor flo to replace the loc-line "Y" set-up on the pump return, but after reading this thread I'm thinking that might not be a great idea. We want to increase flow, not decrease! So, should we leave it "as is," or should we remove the loc-line altogether and use some other type of outlet at the return instead?

(We plan to keep a couple of reef fish and some softies, maybe some LPS.)

Thanks.

[mchembree]

anyone?

[Yedgy]

I think the most important aspects of flow are that it is random/turbulent, that it agitates the surface, and that there are no dead spots anywhere in the tank. As long as these three criteria are met, it doesn't really matter whether it's rotating, released in series, etc. There's always more than one way to set up good flow, and much of it has to do with your aquascaping. And don't forget, aiming a PH or return nozzle at the glass can make for great turbulent flow as the current billows out to the sides. Have fun experimenting with your nozzle(s) and find a setup that works for you.

[quaz]

mine shoots out with the fan nozzle along the surface, hits the glass and flushes every where in the tank. My only issue with it is that the zoas that I've put in there so far are up front and the water is a steady current. They don't close up though and they are feeding well on chop mysis and brine, same with the acan I have in front. The strength of the flow is good for continuing that flush down the front glass into the back of the rock work, so I'll see how the coral reacts. Thanks for the suggestions.

[mchembree]

Originally posted by Yedgy
I think the most important aspects of flow are that it is random/turbulent, that it agitates the surface, and that there are no dead spots anywhere in the tank.

How much surface agitation? The loc-line in our tank goes around 2 of the top wall edges of the tank (right side nearest pump return, continuing around the front right corner of the tank onto the front wall). That part of the loc-line has little "spigot" tubes coming off every loc-line joint; they are about 3/4" long, and directed across the surface of the water, or just below that. The water surface isn't bubbly or churning, but it's moving around with a slight up and down surface undulation. Is that enough?

[Agu]

I'd go with the hydor if it's not too intrusive looking in the tank.

[Yedgy]

mchembree, all that's usually needed is a small "bump" in the water's surface. There's no need to break the water's surface tension, just distort it enough to cause numerous ripples across the entire surface of the tank.