brown algae

[nwappleby]

on the rocks and back glass......

been doing frequent water changes.
tank is 2 months old
CA reactor running
protein skimmer
metal halides 4-12pm on
salinity 1.024
ph 8.0
I am not feeding right now at all.


what could be letting the excess nutrients in?

any advice would be appreciated...........

thanks

[hillrc91]

There are many types of algae, brown, green, red, etc..... The most likely algae that you have described is brown diatom algae. Nutrient export and control is the key to reducing algae. Test your water for excess nutrients like phosphates, silicates, and nitrates. The values for phosphates and silicates in Natural Sea Water is very, very, low. If the values are high in your tank, there are various granular media that can quickly bring those nutrient levels down. Marc Weiss products makes "Phosphate + Silicate magnate" Another similar product is called "Rowaphos" Yet another is made by Seachem, which consists of a white, bead shaped media. All work quite well. Phosphates and silicates can be introduced into the tank via the breakdown of uneaten fish food, tap water, etc...

[nwappleby]

no tap water used....rodi only
I am using a de-nitrate product
I am using a de-silicate/phosphate product (bead)
no feedings.

[hillrc91]

I understand that your using these products, but have you tested your water for these levels?

[nwappleby]

not yet.........

so phosphate and silicate test...here I come

[hillrc91]

nwappleby,

Regular testing is important to establish a baseline. If you know what your current levels are, then you're aware if corrective action needs to be take to address a given issue. For example, if you know that your phosphate levels are high, you can add a removal media to combat the problem. You can then measure the performance of the media that are designed to remove it. If, after the addition of the media, the level falls to 0, and regular testing shows it stays that way for 3 months, then begins to climb again, you know that it's time to add more media.... Regular water testing is a key ingredient to successful marine husbandry.

On another note, Test your nitrate too, I've used that de-nitrate media before without much success. I finally switched to a DSB for nitrate removal, but that's another story. We are all in a sense, water quality managers... Without good water quality, things can go bad quickly...

Richard

[ParkerSE21]

nwappleby,

I recently had an algae problem like the one youre describing. It was recommended, that multiple water changes be done. I did a couple of 15-20% changes every other day for a week I still was getting a reading for nitrates and phosphates, then I did 50% water change, all levels are at 0 at this time. I asked about treating my problem with different products that were available, but it was suggested to just do larger water changes until levels dropped, was cheaper and successful.

Maybe this will help good luck.

[hillrc91]

The water changes that ParkerSE21 has described will certainly work to reduce the nutrient levels in your tank, provided that your source water has none of these nutrients in it. However there are two points you should consider about this type of scenario...
1. It's quite maintenence intensive. That's alot of water. Recommendations about water change frequency and percentage vary, but that number is high.

2. Bacteria Removal. Although temporary, large water changes and gravel stirring remove beneficial nitrifying bacteria.

It will work, and it is cheaper l;ike he said, but the media can last quite awhile depending upon your nutrient levels. I've had a small bag of Phosphate + Silicate magnate in my Magnum 350 for 7 weeks now, and my numbers are undetectable, even with a colorimeter.

[nwappleby]

I am doing 20-25% changes now......i will do a 50% tonight.

[hillrc91]

No matter how you choose to reduce your levels, remember that water testing is critical to know what your levels are.

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

A few comments:

1. In a heavy algae outbreak, nutrients may read very low simply because the algae is consuming them so fast. That is the proinciple behind macroalgae growth to reduce nutrients.

2. I do not recommend using Phosguard from Seachem (or any white media) to reduce phosphate as that may release toxic aluminum. I'd use iron based media for that (they are brown or black), if you want to use a commercial phosphate binder.

3. Growing macroalgae is my preferred method to reduce phosphate and nitrate. Other methods are described in these articles:

Phosphate Issues
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...t2002/chem.htm

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...t2003/chem.htm

4. The continued die off of new live rock can provide nutrients for quite a long time.

5. Improved skimming is another good way to reduce many algae.