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#51
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reefdna,
you might think about putting in some kind of vent in when you build your canopy. i can tell you my 3 250W MH's put off a lot of extra heat into my living room. |
#52
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Quote:
And wattage. You'll be up to 1200 - possibly more depending on what ballasts you get. I would strongly recommend getting a slightly bluer bulb, like the XM 15K. There is a person locally who is running the 400W and it looks great. She has also probably run the Ushio 400W (so have I, hated the color) and can give you some advice. 30" is a really tall for an SPS tank, you'll be in there a lot. I hope you have really long arms. The main problem the way I see it also is that you either have 1,200 watts or none, without fluorescents. Plus the color might not be too pleasing with the Ushios. I would wait to buy until you can see them in person. Personally I'd recommend three 250W DE pendants. It's almost as bright as the 400W in a pointed area without the spread. but you won't need a lot of spread since you're only 24" wide and you're putting 3 over a 5' long tank. Gotta run but if you wanna talk shoot me a pm and I'll give you my phone #. I've owned almost everything possible in the last few years. Aquaspacelights, Novas (Geisemanns), RO3 pendants, RO1 pendants with 400W, Aquaspace Mini 400W, it's almost embarassing.
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When life hands you lemons ... add vodka! Growing old is mandatory. Growing up is optional. Closed minds should come with closed mouths. |
#53
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fliger,
I was definitely planning on 2-4 VHO actinics for supplementing. I heard the same thing about the ushio from others here on the boards. I will PM ya and see if we can get together sometime soon and I'll pick your brain. Thanks for the info. Ed C
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The true measure of strength is not how many trials you have faced..... but rather how you face each trial. |
#54
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Ed, you forgot to add in the VHO's for your pricing.
Also, wouldnt you want fans and/or moonlights as well? Again, i have the same tank as you, if it helps i ran two PFO Moonlights on my tank. i put them each about 20" from each end and from each other. [actually i may even be selling mine soon when i get my new fixture] I am also going with the 3x400W (from Cool Touch, i'd rather they build it than I, I dont trust myself enough, and also i feel like it comes out a little cheaper somehow). I am going with the DE as opposed to your SE, but the way i see it is that at 1200W we have more than enough light and can afford to go with a bluer bulb. If you had 3x250's i would say to go with 10K to get as much PAR as possible, but with 3x400's i think we have enough PAR even out of 20K bulbs. This of course is not based on any facts or anything, just what i would think.
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- Albert -------------- To most people solutions mean finding the answers but to chemists solutions are things that are still all mixed up... |
#55
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alrha,
Here is the VHO kit I was considering, though I was going with all actinic's. http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch...ode=Icecapvhor What you say about the lights makes sense but what about when I finally get into to SPS's would You upgrade/downsize to a 10K bulb? What I am trying to achieve is an optimal lighting system that can easily be made to accomadate SPS's in the future without any real extra expense. Which is why I am opting for the 400W's now. I apprecite all of the advice and opinions here They've helped me and hopefully other MH newbies who are reading this thread. Ed C
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The true measure of strength is not how many trials you have faced..... but rather how you face each trial. |
#56
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Alrha,
If you want to back it up with facts go to page 1 and follow my link to Sanjay's lighting output tests. It'll give you some real information with which to make your decisions. |
#57
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Ed, so it looks like you're looking at about $1500 with the VHO (but still w/o fans and moonlights, figure in i guess $200 if you want the PFO moonlights and the IceCap Smartfans).
ReeferMonkey, it all depends on the bulb and wattage and color. there are a few variables, but the issue is how much PAR is needed desired. this is obviously a little flexible. I guess you can check if 3x400W 20K has more/less PAR than 3x250W 10K but that still doesnt help decide if it is enough or not. Maybe i'll go play around with the numbers and post back what i find. Ed, with SPS in mind - at 8+ watts/gallon we most likely have plenty of light even for the most light demanding SPS. a 10K bulb would probably give you faster growth rates while a 20K would likely provide nicer coloration of the SPS. so it's a give and take. but i would think that it is still adequate. Changing bulbs down the line anyway is not as big of a deal. perhaps you can start with a used bulb that has say a couple of months of life left and see how you like it, if you do, you can then buy it, or if not you can try another one and you really didnt waste a lot on a new bulb. personally, i am going with the IceCap 10ks (400W DE) which really are like 20K's almost. I would prefer for my corals to look nicer than to grow faster (which would end up using more Ca/Alk - he he) but that is just preference. Perhaps if you have frags you want to grow out go with the 10Ks but if your corals are full side, more growth may just end up being problematic so go with the 20Ks and enjoy the coloration.
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- Albert -------------- To most people solutions mean finding the answers but to chemists solutions are things that are still all mixed up... |
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