how do you remove (built-in) temp controller from chiller ?

[wizsmaster]

I'm looking to remove the temperature controller from my chiller, so it will always be on when power is on. I'd rather control the temperature with my AC3, than the built-in temp controller on my CW1000 chiller. This is a 120v 1HP chiller.

Can someone lead me in the right direction, or provide instructions on how to go about this?
There are 4 wires + temp sensor on the PCB.

Wire Color (Label on PCB) - Voltage (chiller state)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Black (AC_N) - 120v (OFF)
Gray (HEAT) - 120v (OFF)
White (on "COMP) 120v (OFF) / 2.9v (ON)
Blue (on "COMP") 120v (OFF) / 2.9v (ON)


Wire connect to
-------------------
Black -> Gray & white to fan
-> Blue to Starter (?)
-> "+" power in (positive)
Gray ->Heat Cutoff on copper?
Blue -> Blue on compressor
-> Black on Fan
White -> "-" on power in (negative)





here is the PCB

[wizsmaster]

any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

marco

[Rogger Castells]

Marco, I know you probably thought on this but, the way I would do it is to just lower the temperature setting to say 74 degrees at the chillers thermostat, and connected to the AC3, in tis way the chiller will alway be on because the AC3 will never let it go that low before it disconnects the power.\
This will also serve you as a second security in case the AC3 fails to stop the chiller.

[wizsmaster]

Rogger,

Yes, i have though of it, but i am not very fond of that solution. I have had 1 chiller stay on, and another not turn on due to a faulty temp controller. Since my chiller is outside on my front porch - i'd much rather bypass it, and just control via power.

I also just figured out that this chiller is a chiller/heater unit - it uses the compressor to heat the water.

[ReefWreak]

Kind of off the subject, but certainly related - for a 1hp chiller, are you running it on your DC8/DC4/DC4HD circuit, or do you have it hooked up through a expansion socket?

I've got a 1/4hp chiller that I'm worried to run on my Aquatronica's powerbar, and am wondering if others are using an expansion socket instead of their power bar directly.

Anyway, maybe O Aigos can answer your question, as he's the local electrician, as far as I know.

Cheers

[Rogger Castells]

ok, I see your point, now my second stupid question have you tried disconnecting all the wires from the board to see if the chiller stays on? that is usually the case the chillers are wired to be turned off by the thermostat not on. If that is the case then al you have to do is disconnect all the wires going into the board.

[wizsmaster]

Right now it's plugged into an outlet, i don't have it controlled by the AC3 at all right now. i do have an expansion socket though that i was planning on using for the chiller. It's easy enough to build your own as well anyway.

[Rogger Castells]

Originally posted by ReefWreak
Kind of off the subject, but certainly related - for a 1hp chiller, are you running it on your DC8/DC4/DC4HD circuit, or do you have it hooked up through a expansion socket?

I've got a 1/4hp chiller that I'm worried to run on my Aquatronica's powerbar, and am wondering if others are using an expansion socket instead of their power bar directly.

Anyway, maybe O Aigos can answer your question, as he's the local electrician, as far as I know.

Cheers

I believe Marco runs the 240v version of the RK outlet extension

[wizsmaster]

I have the 220/240v version of the expansion socket, i used to run this for my 1/2hp that i had on my 150g system - but this 1hp is 120v

For a simple 120v socket expansion all one needs is a simple 120v SPDT relay if i remember correctly off the top of my head. (I'm in bed on my blackberry)

[ReefWreak]

Whoa there buddy, hang on a sec.... All I know is that Black is Hot, White is Negative, and Green is Ground circuitry and programming are not my fortes. Sad fact, since I'm such a computer hardware buff. Oh well.

I'll be getting an extension outlet eventually for my chiller and heater. Right now they're still on my Medusa controller (though I have the Aquatronica) and are on a different circuit from the rest of the tank in the house.

[jeffbrig]

I would bypass the circuit board entirely and wire directly from the plug to the chiller's starter circuit. If the starter isn't separate from the PCB, the easiest route may be to buy a new $20 starter and wire it directly.

My 2¢