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#1
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Treated lumber in tank stands
Is pressure treated lumber ok to use in tank stands? Thought since it was suited for exterior use that it would do good as a stand frame since it would be exposed to constant moisture. Plus building a fence and have some left over.
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#2
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Unless you get KDAT (kiln dried after treatment) lumber, your average piece of treated material is still wet when you purchase it. It will more than likely warp as it dries, and in something like a stand where a level surface is so important I wouldn't recommend it (as ideal). Plenty of people use it though, so since you have some laying around you can use it. Just keep the warping issue in mind, secure everything together very well, and you should be fine.
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Michael |
#3
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One thing to remember is that the chemicals used to treat lumber are toxic. I doubt it would be a problem, but it's worth considering.
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If you put a Tang in a tank that small, the terrorists win. |
#4
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copper being a main element, hence the green color. though not so toxic anymore since the switch from cca to acq ect.
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#5
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Yeah, I've considered that before, but with so many people using treated material, I've come to the conclusion that it's a non-issue. Of course, you probably shouldn't sand on it or drill it once you have it setup unless the tanks are covered, that's about the only way the chemicals could be introduced to the water.
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Michael |
#6
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I wouldnt worry about the chemicals but the moisture as stated earlier is a issue. However its a issue in all lumber KD is misleading. It just means it went into the kiln it doesnt mean that the moisture was dropped low enough to prevent warping. Construction lumber 2x4's and 6's are KD to just under 20%. This is the point at which bacteria cannot survive and the wood wont rot. High production kilns pull at 19% which feels real dry to the touch and eye. Lumber dried for furniture is dried to 6% and should be stored in a dry , low humidity area less than 65% to maintain that 6%. So in short HD 2x's are usually 20+%. Ask the lumber guy to probe it with a moisture meter. If they cant or wont a cheap meter is only about $20 but I know that HD does random moisture check to check their supplier.
Don |
#7
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Quote:
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#8
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One thing I considered when deciding not to use treated wood was the possibility that spills may run over the treated lumber and drip into the sump depending on design. If it does it may pickup some of the chemicals in the lumber. This may be a little extreme but I am quite fearful of the copper issue.
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EJ NKAWTG, for those who know. |
#9
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EJ,
If you are spraying water around so much that it is randomly dropping into your sump you ought to be more worried about rotting the floor out of your house or catching it on fire from the water in your electrical. Seriously, in order to leach enough copper or anything else out of the wood to do any harm you would have to have a near continuous stream of water spraying on the wood. |
#10
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Mine warped a good amount after I set up my frag system. I had the wood corners extending 24" above the top of the tank so I could hang my lights from it. It warped so much that the wood ended up touching my tank (bridging the 3" gap). I ended up taking a jigsaw and cutting all 4 extensions off and hanging the light from the ceiling.
I was really surprised at just how much it did warp. I won't build another stand with it again. |
#11
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Epoxy comes to the rescue.
I use kiln dry limber for tank and coat with epoxy, at least the inside, preferably the whole stand. |
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