Tank-O-death - Page 15

Haab · #**351** 08/13/2007, 12:36 PM

Does anyone have a link to the tread before the disaster? I cant find it any more. That tread was the reason for me to start with reefs. Amazing tank tank both before and after the disaster...

Thanks ;-)

Haab · #**352** 08/13/2007, 12:37 PM

Does anyone have a link to the tread before the disaster? I cant find it any more. That tread was the reason for me to start with reefs. Amazing tank tank both before and after the disaster...

Thanks ;-)

LIReefer · #**353** 08/13/2007, 12:38 PM

Here is a link to Steve's web site www.oregonreef.com

melev · #**354** 08/14/2007, 01:43 PM

And here is when his tank was featured on RC as TOTM:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-03/totm/index.php

nauticac4 · #**355** 08/14/2007, 02:38 PM

Steve,

Your tank is what made me start a reef.

I am glad to see you back on your feet. The pictures I have seen in the past 15 pages look better than anything I could hope for and that is the aftermath of what happened. I cannot wait to see the new life progress in your tank you are the envy of many a reefer!

snulma1 · #**356** 08/14/2007, 02:48 PM

Wow Steve, I remember looking at your tank and thinking thats what I want in my living room (then realized I lived in an apt on the 3rd floor!) It sucks to have that crash, but what a rally back. The tank looks great, and im sure it will continue to grow! Good luck!

Theron · #**357** 08/16/2007, 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by steveweast
I thought that I would do a final update on this topic for closure. I finally finished installing the float switch today. The float switch is an inexpensice float switch from Macmaster. I extended the wires from the float switch through a clear acrylic tubing and filled the tubing with a black pourable epoxy. The switch was then plugged into the interface box from Neptune which allows the float switch to talk to my controller. I have the controller programmed (when a low water level is detected) to turn off the skimmer as well as all halides and UV. So far it works great....and since that I completely drain my sump once a month during water changes, I can test the float switch monthly. Here's a pic of the finished float switch which just hangs down into the sump. Total cost was $40.

Steve, where could I get some of this epoxy that you used for this float switch? I would like to build one of these.

Thanks,

Theron

pepeinthenavy · #**358** 08/16/2007, 12:57 AM

Wow That sucks man. Think of it this way, you'll never do it again and you are an inspiration to us all not to do that.

steveweast · #**359** 08/16/2007, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Theron
Steve, where could I get some of this epoxy that you used for this float switch? I would like to build one of these.

Thanks,

Theron

Tap Plastics has some very pourable two part epoxys. I just mixed the two parts together in a cup....mixed in some black colorant that they also had....then used a syringe to fill the acrylic tube. Curing time was 48 hrs though.

jnarowe · #**360** 08/16/2007, 10:10 AM

Probably a better result than using silicone like I did. Yours looks much nicer and more robust.

Theron · #**361** 08/16/2007, 10:25 AM

Thanks,

I looked on Tap's website and they have a general purpose epoxy. Is this the stuff you used?

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=28&

Theron

steveweast · #**362** 08/16/2007, 10:41 AM

Nope...that's not it. I don't see it on the website. In the store, it came in two small bottles that were equal two parts....I can't remember the name though.

bayreef · #**363** 09/06/2007, 01:48 PM

well on a good note your are re-eligible for TOTM.

dgasmd · #**364** 09/06/2007, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by steveweast
I thought that I would do a final update on this topic for closure. I finally finished installing the float switch today. The float switch is an inexpensice float switch from Macmaster. I extended the wires from the float switch through a clear acrylic tubing and filled the tubing with a black pourable epoxy. The switch was then plugged into the interface box from Neptune which allows the float switch to talk to my controller. I have the controller programmed (when a low water level is detected) to turn off the skimmer as well as all halides and UV. So far it works great....and since that I completely drain my sump once a month during water changes, I can test the float switch monthly. Here's a pic of the finished float switch which just hangs down into the sump. Total cost was $40.

Steve:

I am glad to see that my suggestion of the float switch a few months back came to life and is in place. Awesome to see that things are slowly getting back into shape too. The only small suggestion I have for you based for what you said in a couple of pages back is to at some point in the future re-do your close loops so that one of them pumps though the chiller instead of being in a close loop in the sump. The live stuff is in the tank and not the sump, so you could still isolate the sump completely and have cool water in your tank. It might be minor, but it is something worth thinking about.

Again, congratulations on having things running nicely again.

cward · #**365** 09/06/2007, 08:53 PM

Seeing these pictures has made me anxious to start over with a new tank. Thanks for keeping this thread going.

purplereef · #**366** 09/07/2007, 10:42 AM

Hey Steve,
How do you keep your rocks so clean and free of bubble algae and macro algae?

NanoManMaster · #**367** 09/26/2007, 08:02 PM

any updated pics?