270 Gallon SPS tank for JBNY

[JB NY]

Hmm I'm not sure I know why drilling it would be a bad idea. They have the drill it for the overflows, what does 5 more holes matter?

I never really thought drilling in the bottom would be a big deal. I guess I'll have to search for some problems people had when doing this.

[cali_reef]

Holy swiss cheese

Are they using 1 inch glass for the bottom?

I would go with a two inch close loop intake or a second 1.5 inch intake, the Sequence ReeFlo series pumps have 2 inch intake.
My Oceans Motions' 4 way does not like sand or any type of debris, more than a few people I know have the issue with sand binding the internal drum. Having the close loop intake facing up wards will only further exaggerate this problem.

[pecan2phat]

The only problem that I can visualize with drilling on the bottom without an over flow box is that if you have a bulkhead or fitting failure, you would need to drain the entire tank to repair this.

I think that the larger Reeflo pumps might only have a 1.5" intake as oppsed to the Dart and Snapper.

[ckuhndog77]

JB, here is my .02.

I got a somewhat custom 215 oceanic drilled on bottom w/ 4 holes for closed loop. My advice, have the holes drilled so you can use the heavy duty bulkheads. Mine drilled only for regular. So far no issues, but HD bulkhead nuts have more threads and will hold better. No matter what, just use caution when adjusting any fittings under there once tank is full so that you don't cause a fitting to drip. About 11 months on my system and no drips so far.

Here is the thread I started for CL on bottom. Other threads out there as well.
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...highlight=loop

use a true union ball valve from savko on each one and threaded bulkhead. If you have to change something, you can insert plug on inside of tank or you have union on ball valve to close as well.

Alberto did have some good comments on p2 of linked thread. No loss of sleep so far for me

Good luck dude.
Craig
WAMAS President

[Zoom]

Originally posted by JB NY
Hmm I'm not sure I know why drilling it would be a bad idea. They have the drill it for the overflows, what does 5 more holes matter?

I never really thought drilling in the bottom would be a big deal. I guess I'll have to search for some problems people had when doing this.

The holes for the overflows are not in the weak part of the tanks bottom glass, the more you move to the middle of the bottom glass the more prone for a disaster.

[twinreef]

Joe are u going BB or DSB. i might be ordering my tank from them also late FEB. or March.

[JB NY]

Originally posted by cali_reef
Holy swiss cheese

Are they using 1 inch glass for the bottom?

I would go with a two inch close loop intake or a second 1.5 inch intake, the Sequence ReeFlo series pumps have 2 inch intake.
My Oceans Motions' 4 way does not like sand or any type of debris, more than a few people I know have the issue with sand binding the internal drum. Having the close loop intake facing up wards will only further exaggerate this problem.

3/4" for the bottom.

I'll probably put the intake on an elbow so it is not facing up, thinking it might create a little vortex if it is facing up.

Hmm, if the sand is a problem for the OM, I'll just have to make a decision no sand or no OM. I'm thinking of ditching the sand right now anyway. looks like it is limiting me too much right now

[ckuhndog77]

Originally posted by Zoom
The holes for the overflows are not in the weak part of the tanks bottom glass, the more you move to the middle of the bottom glass the more prone for a disaster.

Zoom, If he gets AO (aquarium obsessed) tank, don't they suggest that you install tank on sheet of foam supported by stand under tank? Outside small holes drilled in stand for plumbing, I think entire bottom would be supported, no? Trying to remember how Sanjay's is on the bottom and if glass rests on foam or if it's just frame that does.

page 15 of sanjay's thread is best I could find on quick scan of empty tank shots: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...&pagenumber=15 but hard to tell if glass sits on foam.

[JB NY]

Originally posted by pecan2phat
The only problem that I can visualize with drilling on the bottom without an over flow box is that if you have a bulkhead or fitting failure, you would need to drain the entire tank to repair this.
.

I've never had a failure with any of my bulkheads, ever. So maybe that is giving me a false sense of security.

Originally posted by ckuhndog77
JB, here is my .02.

I got a somewhat custom 215 oceanic drilled on bottom w/ 4 holes for closed loop. My advice, have the holes drilled so you can use the heavy duty bulkheads. Mine drilled only for regular. So far no issues, but HD bulkhead nuts have more threads and will hold better. No matter what, just use caution when adjusting any fittings under there once tank is full so that you don't cause a fitting to drip. About 11 months on my system and no drips so far.

use a true union ball valve from savko on each one and threaded bulkhead. If you have to change something, you can insert plug on inside of tank or you have union on ball valve to close as well.

Alberto did have some good comments on p2 of linked thread. No loss of sleep so far for me

Good luck dude.
Craig
WAMAS President

Thanks for the info. Yeah, I only use savko true unions now. I used to use the Home Depot ones and had nothing but problems with them as time when on. When I re-did my sump room 3 years ago I redid all the ball values with savko true unions. So much easier to work with and replace if needed. I'll check out the thread you linked to, thanks!

[JB NY]

Originally posted by ckuhndog77
Zoom, If he gets AO (aquarium obsessed) tank, don't they suggest that you install tank on sheet of foam supported by stand under tank? Outside small holes drilled in stand for plumbing, I think entire bottom would be supported, no? Trying to remember how Sanjay's is on the bottom and if glass rests on foam or if it's just frame that does.

I did this on my last tank. 5 years and no problems. I actually have a ton of left over foam, so doing this would not be a problem.

[cali_reef]

Originally posted by pecan2phat
I think that the larger Reeflo pumps might only have a 1.5" intake as oppsed to the Dart and Snapper.

You are right, I assumed he would use a Dart or Snapper since those two are the ones I think are the best CL pump for a tank that size.

[tacocat]

Originally posted by JB NY
Thanks for the info. Yeah, I only use savko true unions now. I used to use the Home Depot ones and had nothing but problems with them as time when on. When I re-did my sump room 3 years ago I redid all the ball values with savko true unions. So much easier to work with and replace if needed. I'll check out the thread you linked to, thanks!

You're referring to the Georg Fischer ones correct? They work well. The 2" one is a bit tougher to unscrew than the others because the machine tolerance is so tight, but yeah, they work great. The ball action is smooth

[Zoom]

Originally posted by ckuhndog77
Zoom, If he gets AO (aquarium obsessed) tank, don't they suggest that you install tank on sheet of foam supported by stand under tank? Outside small holes drilled in stand for plumbing, I think entire bottom would be supported, no? Trying to remember how Sanjay's is on the bottom and if glass rests on foam or if it's just frame that does.

page 15 of sanjay's thread is best I could find on quick scan of empty tank shots: http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...&pagenumber=15 but hard to tell if glass sits on foam.

I saw the way Sanjay's tank is built and will be no problem putting holes on the bottom of that tank.
I don't know how AO built there tanks if they look similar to the acrylic tanks or a glass tanks without any trim that will be ok i just don't like to see anything like this happen to Joes tank.
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...5&pagenumber=1

[dlshaw]

Is it wise to drill the EuroBracing? Isn't it there for structural integrity of the tank overall? I'd hate to see your tank fail because of a few 1" holes in your bracing

[AcroSteve]

I too would opt for 2" on the CL intake. Or at least double 1-1/2" joined together into a 2".

The best suited, high flow, low head pumps have 2" inlets.

[JB NY]

I can do 2" intake.

dlshaw I originally thought the same thing, but tons of people do it and the manufactures say there is no problem with it.

[tacocat]

Originally posted by dlshaw
Is it wise to drill the EuroBracing? Isn't it there for structural integrity of the tank overall? I'd hate to see your tank fail because of a few 1" holes in your bracing

People do it all the time. If glass were more elastic like acrylic, than there would be some cause for concern.
2" would be the way to go. One can always downsize it with fittings.

I'd use one of these intakes as well.
http://www.bestnest.com/bestnest/RTP...?SKU=CAP-TS1.5

You should be able to find one for less than $10 either online or locally. These prefilters are the most invert safe I have used.

[JB NY]

After some talk with AO. I think I am going to ditch the CL. They would rather not have me put 5 more holes in the bottom, and I don't have the room for the CL out the back. I think using streams I should be able to get more than enough flow.

[RGibson]

Joe how many streams will it take and what model will you used?

[JB NY]

I'll probably add two 6100 (3170 GPH each) plus the 6000 I already have (1849 GPH), add another 1200 GPH for the return pump should give me about 34x turnove rate.

[JB NY]

My old tank had about 16x turnover. That one turned out ok.

[RGibson]

Joe are you going to used the 7095 multicontroller to run the 3 tunze streams?

[JB NY]

Originally posted by RGibson
Joe are you going to used the 7095 multicontroller to run the 3 tunze streams?

yup

[twinreef]

why don't u change the transformer on the 6000 and make it a 6100. there about 75 bucks.

[JB NY]

oops I just checked my 6000 and it's really a 6100. So I don't need the transformer but that was a good idea, I didn't know I could do that.