Bloke's 90g Build Thread

[Bloke]

OK, here we go...

I bought a 90g reef-ready tank from Sea Dreams to replace the 55g tank sitting in my family room. I wanted something a little larger without going to a 6' tank. I will be running it with a 45g sump which should give me a nice volume of water. The sump used to run DNGSPOT's 150g setup so it should work great for this 90g. It has already been drilled for an auto top-off and I already have a float valve - therefore, it's ready to go.

For plumbing, I have an Ocean Runner 3500 which pumps ~950gph. I am sure with a single drain that I will have to adjust it, so I plan to use the pump to run a UV sterilizer as well. I have heard nothing but good things about these pumps and best of all, they run very quietly, which is another plus since this tank will be sitting within 3 feet of the TV.

I've already purchased the lighting for it from a place called Catalina Aquarium . I really would suggest checking them out. I bought a 2x250w MH setup including 2 10k bulbs for less than I could find at most other sites including piecing one together. The only draw back is that some sites offer free shipping whereas they do not.

My first chore is to build a stand. The tank footprint measures 48.5 x 18.5 so I added .25" to each and started cutting. I wanted to make certain to have enough support for what will probably weigh somewhere close to 1000 lbs when filled. I also wanted to make it a little taller than most factory stands, so I made it 36" tall. I plan to make the canopy between 12" and 14" tall. More to come...

Here is a pic of the progress on the stand.

[drummereef]

That's a solid looking stand. Good luck with the progress!

[Dave12678]

Bump I got my lights fixture from Catalina and love it. Cheap and all made in the USA.

[Bloke]

I purchased my nano lighting from them and my nano tank has shown termendous growth. I have no complaints about their product.

Here is the SketchUp blueprint I put together for the stand if anyone's interested. Nice program, by the way!

[Bloke]

Tank is awaiting the stand to be finished. As you can see I have most of what I need to get this project up and running. I may get everything placed and plumbed before I skin the cabinet to make sure there wont be any problems.

[Bloke]

For the sump, I think I am going to have a place where the water can flow over a filter pad before dumping into the return chamber. You can see the pieces of glass which will be holding up the eggcrate and filter media on the left side. My only concern is keeping the calupera off the media, but if it does, the water will simply overflow the last baffle which is lower than the top of the sump.

This is a 45g (~ 48x12x19) tank. Water will be moving from right to left. The display tank will be draining down from the left side to the right side of the sump. I wanted to reduce the head pressure on the pump so I figured I would have it make the shortest run instead of the drain - does that make sense? The pump plumbing will run straight up about 2 feet is all.

[Bloke]

The sump will fit very tightly...

[Bloke]

Anyone heard any reports on Fulham Electronic Ballasts?

I've used a Workhorse5 to fire 2x36w PC actinics without trouble and was thinking about buying a Workhorse7 to fire 4x54w T5. I've gone to Fulham's website and if you select the lamp type (T5 Linear HO) and then select 4x54w T5, they suggest the Workhorse 7.

Most online vendors price other T5 ballasts at twice what this ballast would cost me to run a similar setup.

I already have a 2x250w MH 10k setup, and was looking for something for actinic supplementation. I know Bogey runs 2x96 PC in her 90g and since T5 bulbs are cheaper and seem to last longer, I thought I would go this route instead of PC lighting.

Also, am I correct in my understanding that URI bulbs do not require a reflector because one is built into the bulb?

Any thoughts or suggestions?

[Bloke]

Here's a picture of the progress on the stand...

I've got the majority of the work done, but I'm not finished. I still have some trim work to do on the canopy as you can see, and of course the doors aren't made yet. Overall, I can't compain; it's coming along nicely. To cut the holes for the doors, I used a router with an edging bit. Worked like a charm.

I hope to be finished with everything tomorrow so I can start to stain this weekend.

[Bloke]

Well, between visiting with some family friends, talking a while with missile150 (Jim), and watching the race today, all I got accomplished was finishing out the canopy. As you can see, I managed to get the rest of the trim on the canopy, the ventilation holes, as well as the lid and the hinges.

I wanted to make certain that I didn't have to hold up the lid when it was lifted, so I bought spring-loaded hinges; typical to those found on children's toy boxes so that once lifted, it would remain open.

For ventilation, I cut three 3" holes in the back. I will leave the center hole open and install two 3" Sunon fans in the others. I plan to finish out the doors tomorrow.

[ccoons43]

Nice Start, Can't wait to see it set up

[bllfish]

I would triple the size of the hole where the drain and return bulk heads go. I am speaking from experience. Make sure you can easily get to the bulkhead fittings easily with a wrench.

[Bloke]

Thanks for that advice!! I haven't drilled the holes for it yet, but I will definitely keep that in mind before I make any holes.

I might be wrong, but I think the holes are 1.75", so are you suggesting I cut like a 3" or 4" hole? If I do that, I might as well just cut out a large wedge with a jig saw because holes that big would overlap... ??

[bllfish]

I would cut a large square in that corner. Believe me, I just went thru it. Eventually the seal goes or you move something and the "DRIPS" start running down you drain line. Trying to tighten or replace the bulkhead fitting is almost impossible without a LARGE hole. Your tank is only supported around the edges. The bottom glass touches nothing so you can remove as much as you want as long as the edges are intact. You actually do not need the piece of wood you will be cutting for the drain/return line. If you look at a lot of stands, there are one or two braces spanning the width of the stand.
Great looking stand by the way. I wish I had done it your way.
One more thing, I would caulk all the inside seams and then paint with an epoxy paint to try and water proof the stand. This would also help to contain the inevitable spill or overflow.

[bllfish]

Originally posted by Bloke
For the sump, I think I am going to have a place where the water can flow over a filter pad before dumping into the return chamber. You can see the pieces of glass which will be holding up the eggcrate and filter media on the left side. My only concern is keeping the calupera off the media, but if it does, the water will simply overflow the last baffle which is lower than the top of the sump.

This is a 45g (~ 48x12x19) tank. Water will be moving from right to left. The display tank will be draining down from the left side to the right side of the sump. I wanted to reduce the head pressure on the pump so I figured I would have it make the shortest run instead of the drain - does that make sense? The pump plumbing will run straight up about 2 feet is all.

Just a suggestion. I just converted the sump that came with my tank to a sump/fuge. You might check my thread out
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...readid=1142246
You do not want a lot of flow through the fuge area so you should try to keep the sump and fuge sections separate. I "T"d the drain line and have a ball valve between the drain and the fuge so I can regulate the flow into the fuge. All the rest of the water goes to the filter/sump section. From left to right on your sump: sump/ filter, return, fuge.

[Reefghoul]

looking good so far...

[Bloke]

Viola! J'ai fini

[Bloke]

I built doors for it out of 1/4" oak paneling and panel molding and did not like them. They were too flimsy and a waste of time - and after a piece of wood flew off the table saw and caught me in the leg leaving a 4" scratch & bruise, it was a nice release to throw, kick, stomp, and tear up that first set of doors.

So, after my blood pressure leveled back out, I went back to the store, bought 1/2" 2'x4' oak and corner molding a little smaller than I used on the corners of the cabinet. The end result were doors which are much sturdier and worth attaching to a custom made cabinet.

Inside, it will look like this:


Thoughts?

Next up, stain...

[Bloke]

Well, I have been a little reluctant to order the ballast for my T5's (Fulham Workhorse 7) because some people have questioned whether or not it was ever intended to operate the lighting configuration I was intending and consequently would not drive each lamp as needed.

Well, if I ordered everything through three seperate vendors, I would end up paying shipping charges three times over and that would elevate my costs by $50. Instead I think I am going to order two retrofit kits (2x54w T5 HO) through www.hellologhts.com.

Total cost is $250

[Bloke]

Well, not only did I stain the cabinet, but I also managed to cover my fingers in the stuff even though I wore gloves. I will touch up the stain tomorrow and prepare to seal it Friday or Saturday.

You'll notice that the trim on the right side of the cabinet has been removed. I will need to remove the entire side to get the sump into the cabinet because it will fit with about 1/16" on each side!

[bllfish]

Lookin gooood Bloke.

[BWine]

Nice job on the stand and canopy!

[Bloke]

Everything is starting to arrive. I recieved the three fans Friday, my T5 retrofits will be here Tuesday. The only thing left to grab is a heater, a few Koralias, and a 700+ gph pump for the skimmer.

I finished the last coat of varnish on the stand & canopy today. I will start to bring the pieces into the house and position them in a few days after I caulk them. I need to paint the back of the tank with the Krylon Fusion and get to plumbing things.

Things are progressing swimmingly.

[Bloke]

OK - the stand is complete! Built, stained, sealed, and caulked!

I will get the sump under it tonight and plumb it tomorrow. Thoughts?

[Bloke]

Here is a picture of the sump in place. Paneling from the right side was made to be removed to that the sump could be installed or removed if needed. Like I said before, it fits like a glove.