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  #26  
Old 01/24/2007, 09:19 PM
rudezuk rudezuk is offline
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Location: Boise ID
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We are seriously looking at building a wood tank for a corner unit...

Ill be watching this, Nice work!
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  #27  
Old 01/27/2007, 06:17 PM
rowland75 rowland75 is offline
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I too am watching this very closely, as also planning something similar for an inwall, probably the same size too.

I plan on a closed loop system, I have read through the posts but I'm intruiged to know how strong the tank will be with multiple holes drilled throughout the back and base.

How strong do you think the tank will be?

Cheers.
  #28  
Old 01/28/2007, 09:32 PM
dsandfort dsandfort is offline
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Nothing new to report except it takes a long time to lay up fiberglass. I plan to drill 4, 2" intake holes in the back and sides for closed loop inlets. I'll drill 4 more 1.5" holes across the back near the bottom for closed loop returns under the sand bed. The other closed loop inlets will come from the top. There will be other holes in the overflow box, of course.

So, "How strong do you think the tank will be?" All I can say is I'm no structural engineer, but, if it's not strong enough, it will likely be my last home-made tank. Or any tank for that matter. Know what I mean? I swear, my wife had developed occular problems as a result of this build. Her eyes roll around in her head every time she looks at the project. I think she needs to see an optomitrist about it.

Truthfully, I'm not worried about the bulkheads at all. I am worried about a good glass seal and the strength of the euro-style top brace. Time will tell.

Next up, glass the ends. Need to stand the tank on end for this. Should be exiting.

Del
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  #29  
Old 01/28/2007, 09:40 PM
rayman45 rayman45 is offline
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i think you will be good as long as you put the glass on good....build looks better then most wood tank i have seen..
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  #30  
Old 01/29/2007, 10:33 AM
KW-Reefer KW-Reefer is offline
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@dsandfort

Wifes worry, That's what they do! Even if it is idiot proof mine still would find something to "Wonder" about.

You should try and put 30K into a car and then Turbocharge it. I think all that I heard was "Is it going to blow up!" for a year. When I asked to be given a reason for the question, or as to how she thinks it would all that I got was "I'm just worried!". She also had to include the threat "If it does you won't get a New one!" LOL............ Mostly like us they are afraid of what they do not know. I just try to ask why she "Feels" the way she does and to put her at ease explain why it "Should" not happen...............

Tank looks more then strong enough to me. Like you I will be worried about a good seal on the glass. I have not heard of too many problems with Glass though, mostly Acrylic. Just use LOTS! of Silicone is all the advice I have received from others and I'm sure that is also what you have read too.

Take your time and don't rush, We can get our picture fix when you have time to keep us up to date. I'm just glad that you chose to share with us!

KW
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  #31  
Old 01/30/2007, 11:08 PM
H20ENG H20ENG is offline
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I love West System epoxy. Been using it for years!. They actually have a newsletter they send maybe 2x a year, with readers projects, destructive testing, etc. Very cool.

You are doing everything perfectly for a good strong build. Some of the ply tanks out there are more wood box than tank, IMO.

I'd use Dow 795 to hold the glass to the frame. Super strong sticky stuff. Waterdog Products uses it for their fiberglass tanks.
Cant wait to see more, but dont envy you in your Tyvek with a sander
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  #32  
Old 01/31/2007, 12:15 AM
dsandfort dsandfort is offline
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Thanks H2OENG-I've been operating on what looks strong to me. Glad you think it looks the same. Since the glass seal will be compression only, I thought regular silicone would be fine. Do you think I need more of a structural sealant? My plan was to place 1/4" plastic bumbers in the silicone so it would only squeeze out leaving that thickness. I am planning to use pvc pipe with threaded fittings to "jack" the glass into the silicone. What do you think?

I HATE SANDING!! However, I rigged up a vacuum to the sander and it sure keeps the dust down (no Tyvek and not even a respirator). Biggest problem is clogging the vacuum filter every evening.

Tank is on it's end. HOLY TOLEDO! It looks twice as big standing on end. I'll get a picture tomorrow.

Del
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  #33  
Old 01/31/2007, 01:40 AM
rppvt rppvt is offline
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I want you to know that if you don't fail, (and i'm trusting you won't) I'm tempted to jump back into the wooden tank world, myself. Don't do what I did when I was 16 and put the glass in BEFORE the resin. Genius.
  #34  
Old 01/31/2007, 11:35 AM
Fudge Fudge is offline
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Lookin Good Del,

I also really love the west systems, low voc`s are always nice when your doing the work in a 18 x 12 shop..lol.

Heh, when you mentioned the tyvek, i remembered when i was sanding mine up i put my clothes in the wash with the wifes and the daughters....
Needless to say the next day they were yellin at me while they scratched themselves raw.

Glad to see your hard at it.

Marc.
  #35  
Old 02/01/2007, 05:12 PM
lpkirby lpkirby is offline
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Nice, I love my 300 Gallon Fiberglass tank. It saved so much money to put elsewhere in the reef. Will watch yours. The only downside is that I did not go bigger...
Leon
  #36  
Old 02/02/2007, 02:42 AM
Haddock Haddock is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2005
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This is exciting Planning on one of these in my future house.

Epoxy is probably the best option for resin, but I guess the polyester would be cheaper? Would still put epoxy on top so it is "potable." Also see that you are using the expensive option as far as glass fiber is concerned. The 90 deg fiber cloth is more expensive I guess? All in all wood tanks are great options. Can be made to any shape as well.

Dan
  #37  
Old 02/02/2007, 12:15 PM
djian djian is offline
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Del, I cant wait to see more.
Ian
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  #38  
Old 02/02/2007, 12:22 PM
masharp1126 masharp1126 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Allen, TX
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Like several others that have already posted, I too am about to start my plywood tank. Will finish the tank room this weekend. Taped and mudded it last weekend, install linoleum and paint it this weekend.

Some questions. Would it be easier to fiberglass and apply the six coats of epoxy to each piece (bottom, back, and sides) before putting it together. Then build the tank, install the corner pieces and fiberglass/epoxy the corners, top and front last?

You mentioned only using glue on the 45 degree corner pieces, so you didn't use glue in the joints of the plywood, just screwed them together?

What's the dimensions of your overflow?

Great pictures by the way, expecially the detail in the angle iron add-on. That's a great idea, think I might add it to mine. I had originally thought I'd have to use the metal rod from front to back, but this might be a good alternative.
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Bldg - 450 g in-wall plywd tank w/ 10'x15' tank room. Eq. to include: 3 400W MH's w/ Lumenarc III reflectors, PFO 400w HQI ballasts, ASM G-5, ASD Calc reactor, and CL on Darts (2 or 3).
  #39  
Old 02/02/2007, 12:50 PM
lpkirby lpkirby is offline
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What I did was put one coat of glass on each piece of wood then put it all together. You want it together to make the joints and seems bonded together forever and man is it strong.

That's what i did, not sure about Del.

Leon
  #40  
Old 02/02/2007, 12:55 PM
dsandfort dsandfort is offline
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Location: Fort Collins
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Dan-
Polyester resin is cheaper. I think Fudge went this route. West System runs about $125 a gallon here and I figure I didn’t want to save on what I consider the most important part. I’m trying to follow the West System guide for tank building which calls for about 20 mil thickness of epoxy. Besides, what’s a few hundred dollars in the scope of things?

The woven fiberglass is a bit more but I like working with it better than the mat style.

Hi Mark- Sure wish my fish room was as far along as yours.

I considered your idea of finishing each panel separately but felt I might loose some structural strength. The way I did it ends up with at least 4 layers of fiberglass on each corner. However, it's become a PITA rolling and tipping this thing on the appropriate side/end. Leon's method might be a good compromise.

All the joints were done with epoxy and screws except the inside 45s which were done with gorilla glue and a nail gun.

The overflow is a coast-to-coast style so it is 94.5 inches long. I put the 2 "tabs" in it to mount wavy sea devices. The box is about 6" wide and about 12-14" deep (not home right now so I can't measure for you). The bottom is 1 1/2" thick by laminating 2 strips of plywood together. I did this so it provides a good support brace for the back of the tank. I think Fudge did this so it is not an original idea (could have been someone else though).

I won't know about the angle iron support until I fill 'er up. I hope it's enough, but I am prepared to add bracing if I get too much deflection.

Ian- you can see it in person any time you want.

Del
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  #41  
Old 02/02/2007, 01:05 PM
rppvt rppvt is offline
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I like the idea of finishing each panel with glas and one coat before assembling... heck if you're going to glue it together with epoxy anyway... it'll sure hold. You could even finish the uncut sheets before running them threough the table saw for that clean edge thing. Also a flat piece of ply would be easier to spread on if you're adding color. imho--
  #42  
Old 02/02/2007, 07:43 PM
AcroSteve AcroSteve is offline
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You really don't have to flop and flop the tank. I do understand it can make things a little easier, but when they do glass work on large boats, they don't do any flipping or flopping.

Just a thought.


Now, you should have got a big vacuume bag. Now that would be the way to go.
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  #43  
Old 02/02/2007, 08:10 PM
dsandfort dsandfort is offline
Be the valve.
 
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I tried layup on vertical surfaces and quickly found out I am not very good at it. Turning the tank makes my product actually look like I know what I'm doing. Much easier to get uniform coats with no runs or sags.

Second glass coat is starting tomorrow. Yipee.



I am lucky to have 2 beams in the shop from which I can rig a block and tackle.



It looks extra large standing on end. Here is my 5'6" daughter for perspective.

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  #44  
Old 02/02/2007, 09:43 PM
rppvt rppvt is offline
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Oh man, now the whole fishy world knows you've got a cute daughter.
she probably thinks her dad is some sort of crazy nutty professor guy in the garage...
  #45  
Old 02/02/2007, 09:44 PM
KW-Reefer KW-Reefer is offline
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Looking good!!


Thanks for the updates.

KW
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  #46  
Old 02/02/2007, 09:50 PM
dsandfort dsandfort is offline
Be the valve.
 
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Hey!!!! That's a crazy nutty professor guy in the basement

Too cold to be in the garage.
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Once you accept the Universe as matter expanding in to nothing that is something, wearing stripes with plaid is easy. A.E.
  #47  
Old 02/02/2007, 10:23 PM
jman77 jman77 is offline
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good lord that tank is going to be big..... great job so far !
  #48  
Old 02/05/2007, 05:22 PM
masharp1126 masharp1126 is offline
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Just started researching fiberglass cloth. Which did you go with? Noticed there are several different types and strengths (4oz, 6oz, etc.). Did you get it online or local?
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Mark
Bldg - 450 g in-wall plywd tank w/ 10'x15' tank room. Eq. to include: 3 400W MH's w/ Lumenarc III reflectors, PFO 400w HQI ballasts, ASM G-5, ASD Calc reactor, and CL on Darts (2 or 3).
  #49  
Old 02/05/2007, 08:04 PM
dsandfort dsandfort is offline
Be the valve.
 
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Location: Fort Collins
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Mark-
Cloth is 6oz and I get it here from a plastic/epoxy/acrylic specialty shop. It's a cool shop. We have large Federal and State research facilities here in town and it's not unusual to walk in to this shop and see him fabricating 50-100 tanks to be used in some research project. "Effects of mine tailing leachate on Greenback trout", that sort of thing.

Where are you on your build? Sounds like a similar size.

Del
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Once you accept the Universe as matter expanding in to nothing that is something, wearing stripes with plaid is easy. A.E.
  #50  
Old 02/06/2007, 02:02 AM
lpkirby lpkirby is offline
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Del what is the total gallons of that MONSTER?
 


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