Tank Drilling Questions

pescadero · #1 11/15/2007, 01:19 PM

I have a 55G tank that I would like to modify for use with a sump. I have a few questions about drilling the glass to install bulkheads.

The bottom label on the tank says, "All Glass Aquarium, 12-24-1999, assembled by Dan."

I have tried to find the manufacturer, as I think that this company is commonly referred to as "AGA" on the board. I have not been able to find their web site or their corporate contact info, and I have not been able to contact their support department.

I have a few questions about this before I proceed in getting the diamond hole saw, bracing the tank, and drilling the holes:

1. Does anyone have contact information for AGA?

2. Does anyone know which panels on this tank would be tempered and which ones would not be tempered?

3. What is the best hole layout? I have been thinking about drilling two holes for drainage bulkheads, located on the back wall about one-third of the way from each end. (I am not sure about the distance from the top of the tank).

I have been thinking about building a skimmer box to go inside of the 48-inch tank that is about 24-inches wide and centered on the back wall. I was thinking that perhaps the box could be 4-6 inches tall and 4-6 inches deep. I was thinking about making it out of glass, and using silicone to attach the front panel, bottom panel, and the two sides to the rear of the tank.

My biggest concern is with the modifications that are irreversible; to make sure that i don't try drilling into tempered panels, and to put the holes in a suitable location for drainage. I've been thinking about not pressing my luck by drilling a lot of holes, and bringing the return lines in over the top.

any help would be appreciated! thanks!

jubjubrsx · #2 11/15/2007, 04:17 PM

aga = all glass aquarium first off....

second, most cases usually only the bottom panel is tempered, any glass shop should be able to tell, but for the most part only the bottom is is tempered...

look on ebay for the diamond hole saw's...cheap and pretty good...

for layout i was gonna put my drain in the left corner and 2 returns on each side and maybe a powerhead or 2, but thats to be stll decided.

stugray · #3 11/15/2007, 04:34 PM

pescadero,

I drilled my 75 G AGA tank in the back and mine says that the bottom pane IS tempered, so at least MINE was not tempered on the back.

I would not do the overflow box, I would do it this way again. I am very happy with it's performance.

That's a 1.5 inch heavy duty bulkhead.

I used the cheap ebay diamond hole saw and it worked beautifully.

Stu

jimmyj7090 · #4 11/15/2007, 06:20 PM

These people own AGA now. (though they say almost nothing on the website)
http://www.aqueonproducts.com/products/

IIRC 55G tanks don't have a tempered bottom, but I'd contact the above and ask to be safe. They do include a very obvious warning label on the bottom of all the tempered bottom tanks I've seen.

I like to use overflow box's, but to each their own. If you use one there are many ways to arrange it. IMO it makes sense to use the corner(s) if you run MH light since that way the box usually isn't blocking too much light.

pescadero · #5 11/15/2007, 10:30 PM

thanks for the help. i have contacted aqueon products (the new AGA) and filled out a tech-request form on their website. i gave them all of the information about my tank but i haven't received a reply yet.

my AGA-55 still has the original labels on the bottom, and there's no mention of tempered glass anywhere. i'm still trying to decide if that means that i don't have any tempered glass anywhere in the tank. one would think that if they used tempered glass, they would have left some sort of note, but since i'm not the original owner... who knows.

pescadero · #6 11/15/2007, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by stugray
I would not do the overflow box, I would do it this way again. I am very happy with it's performance.

That's a 1.5 inch heavy duty bulkhead.

Stu, I like your PVC design. It looks like you spent quite a bit of time with a drill press.

So how do you adjust the water level? did you leave the perforated PVC pipe press-fit into the elbows instead of gluing it? I'm thinking that if you left it loose, you could rotate the pipe to adjust the water level.

Do you have any more info or photos of the design? I like it! I'm thinking about painting the back panel on my tank black or dark blue. If I were able to find grey Sch80 PVC, that would look pretty good, IMO.

Jimmy, good point about the lamps and the overflows in the middle. I hadn't thought of that.

WRT corner mounted overflows, the one thing that I don't like about them is that they tend to spoil the side view of the tank. That's kind of a problem for my 55 setup, as its not very deep from front to back, and its going to be viewed primarily from an angle that shows the left panel and the front panel. so I'd like to keep the front and the left side as clear as possible. I'm not too worried about the right side. I might even consider a full length overflow at the right end.

Anybody got a link to those eBay hole saws?

FlamesFan · #7 11/15/2007, 11:39 PM

yah, please more info on the overflow! How bout some rear tank shots and such?

stugray · #8 11/16/2007, 09:30 AM

pescadero,

I did exactly as you said. I just pressfit the pipe into the elbows at the end in case I need to rotate the pipe to raise or lower the level. However, I just eyeballed the height of the first row of holes, and it was perfect. I have one overflow from my display ( directly above on the next floor ) feeding this "frag tank" and my skimmer. When I work on the skimmer I can give this tank all of the flow from the one overflow, and the level barely makes it to the second row of holes. ( ~600 GPH )

There is not much to see in the back. The sump sits directly behind it and a few inches lower than the tank rim, so the pipe comes straight out the back and dumps into the sump.

If the sump were below, I would put a tee on the back with a vertical vent to allow enough air in.

HTH

Stu

pescadero · #9 11/16/2007, 09:42 AM

yes, that helps. as it turns out, i have long-term plans for pretty much the same kind of setup -- i have a display tank that will go into the main room upstairs, and a good spot for a similarly sized tank directly below it. the downstairs location is in a recessed area that is currently an in-wall bookshelf that i'd like to convert to an in-wall tank. behind that is an area beneath a stairwell in the laundry where i'm going to put the sump. i REALLY like your idea of using overflow from the upstairs tank to go t to the downstairs tank, and then the sump. for now it will only be the upstairs tank and the sump under the stairs, but i'm thinking about the second (downstairs) tank as an add-on later.

pescadero · #10 11/16/2007, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by stugray
There is not much to see in the back. The sump sits directly behind it and a few inches lower than the tank rim, so the pipe comes straight out the back and dumps into the sump.

If the sump were below, I would put a tee on the back with a vertical vent to allow enough air in.

Stu, I've never worked with drilling a tank and installing the bulkheads, so even though there may not be very much to see, pictures still help me a lot. I'll try to get by with a couple more questions if you don't mind:

By heavy-duty, do you mean those are Schedule 80 bulkheads?

What kind of fittings are on the inside and on the outside of the bulkheads? I'm wondering how you connected the pipe to the bulkheads inside and outside the tank, and if they're threaded fittings, slip fittings, etc.

Showing a little more of my ignorance, when you say that those are 1.5" bulkheads, does that also mean that you used 1.5" PVC for the overflow?

Great advice on the air inlet for the standpipe. I would have probably had to figure that out when I noticed the great sucking sound. Is your setup pretty quiet?

Thanks again!

Bob

stugray · #11 11/16/2007, 09:35 PM

pescadero,

"do you mean those are Schedule 80 bulkheads?"

Yes from marinedepot, sch80 1.5 inch. it is threaded on the backside ( side nut screws on ), and slip on the front ( side where the gasket goes).

"What kind of fittings are on the inside and on the outside of the bulkheads?"

On the outside, it is threaded, so if I chage my mind, I can reuse the bulkhead. On the inside of the tank ( where you see the overflow enter ) it is slip.

I didnt glue the inside ( slip ) joint, I just used a little silicone. If I need to change the inside, I can wrench it apart. At first I thought it didnt matter if the inside leaked a bit, but if the power goes out for long enough, a leak could drain the frag tank down to the bulkhead and possibly overflow the sump.

"does that also mean that you used 1.5" PVC for the overflow?"

Yes the entire piece you see in the tank is 1.5.
I actually had to trim the length of the 45 to get the proper height.

Stu

pescadero · #12 11/18/2007, 05:46 PM

thanks. i think i'm going to adopt your design when i build my overflow. now i need to work on getting my tank drilled...

ouuduy · #13 11/26/2007, 01:26 AM

thats a good idea ! man were always thinking of new things . put a patent on it hehe

Adamc1303 · #14 12/24/2007, 08:40 PM

It looks like one end is caped off, is it? How many GPH do you get through it? Do you think it could work with both ends open like a dual overflow?

customcolor · #15 12/25/2007, 01:05 AM

i was told once that any aga 55 made befor 2002 had tempored front and back. thats y i didnt drill my 55 for a sump and went to a 100 gal rubbermaid.

pescadero · #16 12/25/2007, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by customcolor
i was told once that any aga 55 made befor 2002 had tempored front and back. thats y i didnt drill my 55 for a sump and went to a 100 gal rubbermaid.

aw, FUD. i was totally happy that there was no data to suggest that my tank had a tempered front/back, and now you suggest this. if its true, then i'm going to have a real problem when i try to drill my 1999 AGA 55.

interestingly, my tank has all the original stickers, but none of them say tempered. where did you get your information?

unfortunately, the people who now own AGA never answered my inquiry.

customcolor · #17 12/25/2007, 01:06 PM

i was told by someone in our reef club but anyone could be wrong. i just didnt want to take a chance after hearing just 1 warning. lots of times people crack there 55 after drilling. i have seen about 10 on rc alone. so i just sold that 55 and got the rubbermade. just think now you have an excuse to upgrade

cpl40475 · #18 12/25/2007, 01:50 PM

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...readid=1278466

theres a thread that actually shows you a way to tell if your tank is tempered or not. Might be worth the trip to WallyWorld for the sunglasses.Unless you already have them

hyrumbradshaw · #19 01/03/2008, 01:01 AM

stugray did you paint your pipe at all?

GuySmilie · #20 01/03/2008, 01:23 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by pescadero
Stu, I like your PVC design. It looks like you spent quite a bit of time with a drill press.

That was my first impression too.
Even though Stu's drilled overflow shows excellent craftsmanship, I would have sawed it, creating a series of slots (or slits) about a third of the diameter of the pipe. Would have been less labor intensive.

Set a table saw blade height to about 5/8 to 3/4"" if cutting 1-1/4" PVC. Then make a series of slots, each cut spaced about the width of the blade for the length of the pipe. You could still adjust water level like Stu does by not gluing anything together.
Just a thought.

nayotte · #21 01/03/2008, 08:41 AM

I didn't read the whole thread here so not sure if any of you suggested this website. Glass-holes.com, This is where I bought several holes saws at a fair price. Free shipping if I remember right. They work great and the website gives info about drilling.

hllywd · #22 01/03/2008, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by cpl40475
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...readid=1278466

theres a thread that actually shows you a way to tell if your tank is tempered or not. Might be worth the trip to WallyWorld for the sunglasses.Unless you already have them

That info isn't exactly correct and is hit and miss whether you'll get the results you're looking for.

The best way is to use two polarizing camera filters, sunglasses will work but looking through two dark lenses makes this more difficult. On a sunny day take the empty tank outside. Place one filter on each side of the glass and look at the sky through both filters at the same time, rotate the filters until most of the light is blocked and move them simultaneously across the glass. If it's tempered you'll see light and dark areas in the glass if not all areas of the glass will look the same. You can (and should) try this on a side window of a car first to see the effect, it will NOT!!! work on the front windshield since they are laminated safety glass NOT TEMPERED!!! That part of the other thread is definately bad info!!!
It is true that you may be able to look at the glass with polarized sunglasses but not nearly as reliable since the light conditions need to be right to see this effect.

pescadero, Don't bank on this but I believe the tempered 55s had 1/4" glass to make them lighter. I can tell you that I did have a tempered 55 (all 5 panels) and it made a pile of diamonds on the garage floor years ago when I tried to lift it out of the truck by myself when we moved here.
For myself I would use the method i wrote about above and drill away. These are the saws I use http://richontools.com/catalog/i174.html the delivery time is a couple weeks but for the price and the customer service I've had they are my choice.

Tim

mcdermott.jimmy · #23 01/04/2008, 03:57 PM

I have a 55g AGA and I drilled two return holes and a larger drain hole in the back wall of mine, and it is just fine.

nanoDude · #24 01/04/2008, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hllywd
That info isn't exactly correct and is hit and miss whether you'll get the results you're looking for.

The best way is to use two polarizing camera filters, sunglasses will work but looking through two dark lenses makes this more difficult. On a sunny day take the empty tank outside. Place one filter on each side of the glass and look at the sky through both filters at the same time, rotate the filters until most of the light is blocked and move them simultaneously across the glass. If it's tempered you'll see light and dark areas in the glass if not all areas of the glass will look the same. You can (and should) try this on a side window of a car first to see the effect, it will NOT!!! work on the front windshield since they are laminated safety glass NOT TEMPERED!!! That part of the other thread is definately bad info!!!
It is true that you may be able to look at the glass with polarized sunglasses but not nearly as reliable since the light conditions need to be right to see this effect.

pescadero, Don't bank on this but I believe the tempered 55s had 1/4" glass to make them lighter. I can tell you that I did have a tempered 55 (all 5 panels) and it made a pile of diamonds on the garage floor years ago when I tried to lift it out of the truck by myself when we moved here.
For myself I would use the method i wrote about above and drill away. These are the saws I use http://richontools.com/catalog/i174.html the delivery time is a couple weeks but for the price and the customer service I've had they are my choice.

Tim

That's good info. Thanks Tim!

leoslizards · #25 01/05/2008, 07:24 AM

I want to drill a couple 10 gallon tanks but I don't want to spend alot on polarized camera lens so I think I'll just buy the hole saws and drill away. Does anyone know if the standard AGA 10g aquariums have tempered glass bottoms? If they do break they shouldn't be much to replace. How much is the common price on a 20" x 12" x 1/4" piece of glass? What's the difference between tempered and untempered glass? Is tempered the type that breaks into very tiny pieces?

Btw stugray, that's a great overflow design. No siphoning required either.