Anyone here do custom auto paint?

[Crusty Old Shellback]

If your wanting a quick spin, then go with the shorter rods. Long rods and long stroke are for slow RPM high Torque making motors. A short rod/stroke, like in a 327 is a quick, high reving motor. Since you got the gas, you'll have the power you need.

Glad you got what sounds like a good machinist. Mine builds a lot of the alchol sprint motors around here and is the head mechanic for the lucas oil twin turbo drag boat. Got his name from a guy who held a bunch of drag boat records when I was starting to build my truck. One thing I've found out from a few people out here is when you build the motor, use lucas oil for the assembly lube on everything but the rings, it will do wonders on keeping it running longer and protecting things during the startup and breakin period.
Good luck with it.

[budhaboy]

Originally posted by blown63chevy
JP,
YOu stated earlier that it's hard to match the color with the pearl right? So if I'm changing frames and rear fenders and having the tank smothed down, does that mean I need a complete new paint job so that everything matches? I love my factory colors and want to keep them. I want to paint the frame with the black pearl. I'm going to a wider rear fender but want the factory paint scheme on it. As for the tank, I want the center weld smothed so I can run it without a console strap. I just want the colors to match. Which way to go?

I still vote for a light coat of the blushing red pearl.

to be honest, if you're gonna ride it as you do now, I would stay with Powder Coating(either stock or custom)- paint the frame, and 2 months later, it'll be rock chip city. YMMV however. Getting a full paint on your tins isnt going to be much more work than what you're doing now- just a matter of pulling the front fender(IIRC, your oil sump is chromed) My Uncle had to replace the tank on his scoot, after the ex took a hammer to it before the sheriff could stop her, and I painted that tank 4 times to get it where it is now- at high noon, you can tell the color difference- its faint, and I hate it, but my Uncle doesnt want to park his ride long enough to shoot it again. Plus this way, if I were you, I'd get a few extra coats of clear done as well- that way scratches will only muss the clear, and not the pearl- buffing and waxing will remove the scratches that otherwise would destroy the paint, plus tha fact that thick clear coats give a deeper finish IMHO - done right the paint will always look wet. Personally, I like that wet look- on street rods AND bikes.

[Crusty Old Shellback]

Thanks. I like the wet look too. Just didn't want to spend the extra money on a full paint job just yet seing how as it's barley 6 months old. Might have to wait till this winter then to tear it down so I can still get some good riding time in. I'm debating still on getting a new oil tank and having it painted to match.
I didn't want to go powder coat because I didn't think they could do a pearl paint to match the bike. Also, if I do some molding on the frame to smooth it out, can it still be powder coated? I thought it had to be all metal for the paint to adhere before it was baked.

[budhaboy]

Originally posted by blown63chevy
Thanks. I like the wet look too. Just didn't want to spend the extra money on a full paint job just yet seing how as it's barley 6 months old. Might have to wait till this winter then to tear it down so I can still get some good riding time in. I'm debating still on getting a new oil tank and having it painted to match.
I didn't want to go powder coat because I didn't think they could do a pearl paint to match the bike. Also, if I do some molding on the frame to smooth it out, can it still be powder coated? I thought it had to be all metal for the paint to adhere before it was baked.

you've never Tinned a car before? its fairly easy, especially on a frame, and its how the old guys used to fill back in the day before Bondo.(I come from a long line of Bikers and Street/Hot Rodders, Gramps showed me how to do it)
If you really want the frame painted, look into teflon clear coats- not as strong as powder coating, but pretty damned tough, it IS a bit more money though, but then again, none of this is going to be as pricey as shooting color on a car.

[Crusty Old Shellback]

I've never tinned but know about it. Didn't really think about doing it that way. May have to learn a new hobby

[Jeremy Blaze]

Okay, got the copper penny (sorry blown63chevy, but I am trying to stay away from being to red).

It looks great in the can. Finishing body prep this weekend, going to spray the last coat of primer next week and block it down in prep for the color!

Man, jsut to many hobbies, but my tanks still look good too.

[thrlride]

Tell me about your '88 Camaro. Is it a Z28 or IROC?

I really like the styling of the 91 - 92 Z28's, you ought to look in to the hood louvers and spoiler of those. Ground effect's are different too but would be more pricey to change. The front grill with the red bowtie on it for the fog lights is only $35 at GM. Foglights are more but you can probably find those all day on ebay. Upgrading the interior seats to 4th gen would be sweet too. If it isn't a daily driver the white seats out of the '97 anniversary camaro would be sweet with your orange.

Sounds like you have a good plan with this car. I am very fond of the Camaro and can't wait to see some pics.

[Jeremy Blaze]

thrlride,

Heres the story of the car. It is an IROCZ, no t tops, has the L98 engine.

Current upgrades are;

Rebuilt front and rear suspension, has poly urathane bushings troughout. Big swaybars front and rear. Boxed rear control arms, adj. rear track bar. KYB struts and shocks, custom springs front and rear.

Engine mods, heads have had major port work done, milled as much as possible for increased compression. 1.6 roller rockers to make the stock cam a little better. Intake is a Holley Stealth Ram, which has been ported, 28.5lb LS1 injectors, 58mm TB. Adj. Fuel regulator.

Shorty headers, y pipe, high flow cat, 3" cat back.

Car has been striped to a bare shell, under side is coated in POR 15. Body has been coated in a PPG Epoxy Primer/sealer.
Has new fenders, 3" Jongblod Fiberglass hood (www.gtfiberglass.com) I am sticking with the gfx that came on it, and the small spoiler. I like the areo package of the 91 92 cars, but everyone puts them on the old cars. Battery is in the back.

There is no interior in the car now. I got all new black plastic panels to go into it. I will be adding new carpet,new door panels, headliner, 4th gen TA seats, 4th gen console, etc...

I have all new weatherstiping to go on after paint is on.

After the paint is on, and the car is back on the road, I have a few more thing to do.

1. Subframe connectors, and LCA drop brackets. Adj. Torque arm
2. Tranny. I am going to have a 700r4 built with a loose converter.
3 Rear. 9" with 3.73 will go in.
4. Brakes. I am going to put LS1 brakes on the front, not sure about the rear yet.
5. New engine. I am building a new 355 that will handle a 200 hp hit of nitrous.

I am running 2 set of wheels and tires. Bad weather tires are regular performance street tires on 92 Z 16 wheels.

Weekend tires are kumhos on the front and 26x11.50 ET streets on the rear, all mounted on 17x8" Ealge alloy 77's.

What else you want to know?

[Jeremy Blaze]

Oh, the fog lights are gone, as the ports now feed straight into my air filter boxes. I have thought about putting the bowtie grill in place of the script on, but am still undecided.

[Jeremy Blaze]

Gonna try and spray the last coat of primer on tommorrow, then its more wet sanding, then time for color!


Also, going this weekend to pick up the new project car, a 1967 Pontiac Firebird convertible!

[budhaboy]

cool man- post some pics

[Jeremy Blaze]

My computer at home crashed last night, after I had a guy over to fix it. If I get it working in the next day or so, I will post some pics.

Going to wet sand again tonight, and spray the last coat of primer on.