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#26
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Wow, 5200 gph. That's pretty sick. That's not a bad price for that much water movement, but that's way more than I would ever need.
I ordered one of these for water movement in the tank: http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...731481&isKit=0 That, plus the 700 gph from the return should be plenty of water movement. Plus, I don't have any cables in the tank like I would with traditional powerheads. No heat either.
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Josh |
#27
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FWIW I use a pan world 100px. 1.5 years now and I am quite happy. 11 feet vertical head.
[IMG][/IMG] This is one of the outputs. [IMG][/IMG] If you are going to just pump up water for waterchanges, I would look for somthing cheep from the hardware store. But such a pump would cost to much to run 24/7. It says 100 watts on the pump (panworld) but I couldn't say for sure how many watts the thing is useing Hope this helps. Anton |
#28
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Watercooled poseidon pumps are something you may want to look into. |
#29
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I think you would be happy with the Gen-X Mak4. Its a tad noisy, but in a basement, who cares? Its a strong pump and is only $120. This is what I use on my 180G/75G sump/30G fuge. Some of the flow is T'd off to the fuge. You can see the pic in my previous post.
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[This space for rent] |
#30
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I've gone ahead and purchased the Iwaki 100 pump. I'm going to be installing the PVC pipe today (1.5" drain line, 1" return line). I think I'm going to try to have an equal amount of water volume in my sump+fuge to match my display (75g). Thanks for suggesting that I go with a basement sump. From my research, I can tell it's going to make things much easier to maintain.
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Josh |
#31
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I yous mak4 to bring water up from basement
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The problem with making assumptions is that we belive they are the truth. |
#32
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Quote:
I would oversize your return line if possible. 1-1/2" would be minimum IMPHO. HTH David
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Too young for Medicare Too old for women to care |
#33
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The lines were run yesterday. I have a 1.5" ID PVC running for the drain line and a 1" ID PVC running for the return line. The overflow drain on my tank is 1.5", so I don't think going any bigger than that would help.
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Josh |
#34
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http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...5&pagenumber=1 this might of helped if i could of gotten it to you faster
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The problem with making assumptions is that we belive they are the truth. |
#35
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Not trying to but in but what I am idealy trying to do is plumb all of my equipment from my basement to my tank in the dining room. One problem from the basement floor to the top of my tank is about 14'. The horizontal run is about 25'. I have an AGA 125 pre-drilled w/ 2-meagaflow overflows, 1" feeds and 3/4 returns. I think I am going to use the 3/4 holes as additional feeds, t'in them into the 1" and then into sump. So if 1" is rated for 600 GPH of flow by adding the 2 additional 3/4 ones I should have somewhere near 1800 GPH of overflow water from my tank to my sump. I was planning on running 1.5 PVC pipe, keeping in mind that it will ultimatley be reduced to 1" at the tank where it splits into 4- 3/4 locline outlets over the top of my tank. Minimal use of 90's I will use as much spa-flex as possible to make gradual changes in direction. I am looking for a return pump for my sump and a pump for a closed loop probably plumbed to a OM 4-way. Id like 5x turnover out of my sump and 30x+ turnover from the closed loop. I was looking at the hammerhead and the Mantaray, fantasticaquatic.com has them for real cheap online $299 w/ shipping. Let me know what you think. And if you guys think that this setup sounds bad let me know, I only want to do this once so Id rather do it right the first time(to save some sanity and especially my wallet) Thanks in advance Jay
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Um, I need money!!! |
#36
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That thing uses 3.5 amps!!!! Whats that.... 400 watts. Wow!!! With all that power, Id use an eductor even with a basement sump. |
#37
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Smitty,
I went with a Barracuda for my basement return. Even at that I had to close off the returns some to reduce the amount of flow through the sump. I have about 12 feet of head, so a Dart would not quite make it. The sequence pumps can handle being closed off at the output and will actually run less energy. I think you will be overdoining things with the Hammerhead. Also look at the Vortec for your circulation. I am very happy with how they are working in my tank (60X36X25). |
#38
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bump for the man that gould not get the search engine to work looking for basment sump
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The problem with making assumptions is that we belive they are the truth. |
#39
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Am working on plans for a basement sump/refugium, doing lots of reading here, but it's a bit overwhelming.
Have a 220 gal with twin overflows and returns/cabinet sump. For a basement sump planning to use spaflex, and make "Y"s instead of "T'"s joining under tank before heading downstairs. Is that better or not necessary? Plan on a 75-100 gal sump in basement. How can I send water back upstairs for water changes without a separate return line on my tank? Can I add the fresh saltwater to the sump and use the main pump, or am I missing something? If I'm going to go through all the cost of changing my current set-up I've got to be able to send the clean saltwater upstairs! Thanks, I hope this question isn't utterly stupid. |
#40
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Sorry too late for the water change recommendation but if you like ideas for the basement sump then try this:
Because you will have lot more space try installing the equipment on shelves that really makes maintanance real easy. Also try building a drip box around the equipment, That will save you a couple of basement floods, a drain nearby is almost a must and a large sink for rinsing and cleaning equipment is a plus. http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/equipment.html
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Did I write what I wrote? What the heck am I talking about! Well..... Nevermind. Last edited by jdieck; 02/25/2007 at 02:54 AM. |
#41
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jdieck your set-up is amazing in the quality of the equipment, organization, and BTW, the tanks are beautiful. You look like you could run your own LFS!
So, you're saying I can't do a basement water change, but let me clarify what I want to do, or think I can do. I will still clean the main display tank like I already do, by siphoning it down to my desired level. Since my tank is running/full I see that I won't be able to just, "flip a ball valve" to drain the tank down. But, I NEED to send the water from the basement (where they'll be an ro/di unit, sink, sump, refugium, slop sink) via the sump to return the new saltwater to the display. Can I pump the reserve saltwater into the sump fast enough for the main pump not to run dry? How do I figure this out? I hope this is clear enough. |
#42
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^^^ what is a pre-sump, and what is it's function?
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#43
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If your sump is the right size the pre-sump box is redundant and just complicates the operation a bit. Just adds size and volume to the sump and functions as first chamber for the bubbles comming from the higher floor. I had a relatively small sump so I had to increase the volume. Taking advantage of the shelving I installed an additional box on an uper shell. I feed the skimmer from it and the skimmer output goes to the sump on the lower level. The pre-sump also has an overflow into the lower sump. It also gives additional space for extra live rock and I also keep in there the cartridge for the filter I use on the Q tank so it is always ready for a quick set up if needed.
For water changes I make them in the basement. Just empty the sump to the drain and transfer the water from the mix tank. I prefer to stop the return pump and empty the sump rather than adding and removing water at the same time. This way more pollutants get removed. All my equipment is in the basement, the only equipment I have with the tank are the ballasts and the controller and from the upper floor to the basement I only have two water lines (Drain and Return), three power wires comming from the main and an electrical signal line for the water on the floor alarm sensors and auto shut off. Here is a flow diagram that might give you some ideas:
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Did I write what I wrote? What the heck am I talking about! Well..... Nevermind. Last edited by jdieck; 02/25/2007 at 02:06 PM. |
#44
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Thanks jdieck for the info on how to go about doing water changes.
The diagram spells it out - there is a lot of equipment going on! I would need to incorportate a chiller, and uv sterilizer somewhere in-line, and maybe i could use an extra in-line pump for that like you show. I would like to have a separate refugium that would gravity feed to the sump. Notice that you have a fuge, where is that located? Will be buying a BM250 skimmer for in-sump, and would like to use a 100gal bin as my main sump. I've read that people put the skimmer in it's own container so it's fed more directly from the overflow, but do I need to be concerned about the skimmer's output? Thanks, Lisa |
#45
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The fuge is also located in the basement and has piping that can be fed either from the main aquarium drain or from an independent loop from the sump which feeds also the frag tank via two Mag Drives one 18 and one 12 connected in series.
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Did I write what I wrote? What the heck am I talking about! Well..... Nevermind. |
#46
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^^^Thanks.
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