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  #1  
Old 08/11/2007, 12:22 PM
sjm1978 sjm1978 is offline
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overflow ? (pics)

ok i got the acrylic bent for my 29g tank its a corner overflow whats the best tool to use to make the teeth in it?


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  #2  
Old 08/11/2007, 12:27 PM
Stirfry001 Stirfry001 is offline
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I think most people use a dremel tool
  #3  
Old 08/11/2007, 12:27 PM
dkellyrc dkellyrc is offline
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I've used a table saw to notch teeth. You could also use a jigsaw.
  #4  
Old 08/11/2007, 12:30 PM
sjm1978 sjm1978 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Stirfry001
I think most people use a dremel tool
i was thinking of using a dremel with 1/4" router bit. how long should the teeth be?
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  #5  
Old 08/11/2007, 12:56 PM
aztbs aztbs is offline
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The length of the teeth will determine how much water makes it to your sump when the power fails. The width of the teeth determines the flow and must match the return pump evenly. I am afraid there is some math to do.
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  #6  
Old 08/11/2007, 01:17 PM
army67romeo army67romeo is offline
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i use table saw with home depot acrylic blade 2 1/2 times wide then the blade

dont make them so long i lossed the higth i could get an 1in is more then enf to that size tank
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  #7  
Old 08/11/2007, 01:43 PM
sjm1978 sjm1978 is offline
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what about if i cut about 1/4" or more off of the height so its no so tall and dont do teeth would that work? rightnow its to the trim but if i make it shorter i can go without teeth right?
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  #8  
Old 08/11/2007, 01:45 PM
aztbs aztbs is offline
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You could do that, but then I would glue on some gutter guard (black plastic mesh) to prevent fish from riding over the waterfall. I broke out all of the teeth and used the gutter guard myself because I wasn't getting enough flow.
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  #9  
Old 08/11/2007, 01:48 PM
sjm1978 sjm1978 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by aztbs
You could do that, but then I would glue on some gutter guard (black plastic mesh) to prevent fish from riding over the waterfall. I broke out all of the teeth and used the gutter guard myself because I wasn't getting enough flow.
cool i think ill do that. i have a whole roll of gutter guard.
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  #10  
Old 08/11/2007, 02:19 PM
918ReefCpl 918ReefCpl is offline
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Somewhere I read it was 1/4" wide slots, no more than 1" in depth & on 1/2" centers between teeth was good for 1 1/2" drains flowing 600gph...Or drop by a LFS w/ a tape measure and dbl check their tooth spacing. Dremel with Router bit/stand works well or a regular tabletop router. Alternative is to drill the 1/4" dia hole at the base of your measurement for the teeth height and then use a table saw or jigsaw to cut the teeth slots. Heat and acrylic/plexiglass dont mesh well together so you need to be carefull while cutting so it doesnt accidentally refuse behind the blade as you cut or drill thru the material.
  #11  
Old 08/11/2007, 02:20 PM
reefrandy reefrandy is offline
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a router works great also, it is also easier to cut before bending, have you drilled the bottom already?
  #12  
Old 08/11/2007, 02:24 PM
reefrandy reefrandy is offline
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i guess i could have looked at the pic!
  #13  
Old 08/11/2007, 02:39 PM
Elliott Elliott is offline
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aztbs: what material is gutter guard, what glue do you use, does HD have it?
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  #14  
Old 08/11/2007, 02:46 PM
aztbs aztbs is offline
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HD and Lowes has it. It is back in the roofing/building area with all of the other gutter material. It is black plastic and comes in rolls that are like 6inches x 15ft.

When I put in my tank, I used the black spray foam on the wall and I embedded the guard in to that. I suppose you might get silicone to hold it if you clamped it in place until dry.

Here is an old pic from the day the tank was filled:
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&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp ., \&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp y'&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp .
&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp '~'-. ,V'_.-~'&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp >( ')
&nbsp&nbsp o@o&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp "\_r'
&nbsp @o|,@&nbsp&nbsp _/,_&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp >( ')
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  #15  
Old 08/11/2007, 02:49 PM
AZDesertRat AZDesertRat is offline
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I would use a router in a router table with a guide to cut teeth. No waterfall effect that way and it will be easier to maintain the water level in the overflow. With a straight top your water will want to equalize between the tank and overflow.
  #16  
Old 08/11/2007, 02:54 PM
Elliott Elliott is offline
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ahh, I see. nice job on the foam! many thanks

sjm1978: I'm sure you know this but as a reminder, regarding flow, the width of the teeth determines flow into the overflow box, but that must not exceed the maximum flow allowed by the standpipe(s) you intend to use.
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  #17  
Old 08/11/2007, 04:59 PM
JMCAquarium JMCAquarium is offline
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In my fathers tank (240) wide we used a 1/2 drill bit and cut holes there much easier to do and covered with black mess like alto was speaking of and checked the flow we needed alittle more flow we lowered the water level and drilled one more hole and it was perfect still has the tank now 4 years later. I see a diffrents between slits and hole to be honest
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  #18  
Old 08/11/2007, 10:01 PM
sjm1978 sjm1978 is offline
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ok i was thinking of just doing the teeth on it now. im thinking of buying a dovetail jig template and clamping it to the overflow and use a dremel with a 1/4" dremel straight router bit. heres the link to the template http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-Inte...887503&sr=1-13
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  #19  
Old 08/15/2007, 01:49 PM
24gnanonewbie 24gnanonewbie is offline
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I used a 1/4" straight router bit, in a router table. I clamped a board across and used it to cut a straight slot. I did it 1" deep and every 1/2". I would adjust the board to accommodate after every cut. Mine worked out great! No flow issues...

Your welcome to come check it out. Or I can send some more pics...
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