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#1
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Rubbermaid Brute water storage
I'm fighting some cyano and green hair algae, everyone keeps saying it is phosphates. My API phosphate test kit reads zero, but I'm told it must be wrong. That I must have phosphates if I have algae. So I start looking closer at my water supply. I have an RO/DI unit. Tonight I took these measurements.
RO/DI = 2 tds RO = 6 tds Tap = 78 tds RO/DI water (in storage container) = 45 tds I rinse my hydrometer out in the pure water storage, but I cannot believe that is changing the tds. Is something leaching out of my container? I have a Rubbermaid Brute trashcan. Some were I read it was food grade and I just started using it. Should I have cleaned it with something? Should I get something completely different? Any suggestions would be appreciated |
#2
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You are probably looking for your answer to the algae problem in the wrong place. 2 TDS in a Brute container probably isnt the problem. Too much food, old bulbs, poor water flow, etc... One of those is most likely causing the problem.
__________________
Jeff ------------------------------------------------ If you work on a lobster boat, sneaking up behind someone and pinching him is probably a joke that gets old real fast |
#3
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It's not the brute. Your rocks could be leaching phosphates. How old is the tank?
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#4
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Ro/Di is like sponge. It will absorb random molecules out of the air to try to satisfy its needs. Unfortunately for us hobbiests, TDS doesn't tell us what is actually in the water, only that theres "something electrically conductive" there.
The thing with phosphate tests is that they will read "0" in the presence of algae. This is because the algae consumes it from the water thereby leaving nothing to test for. As long as your source water tests 0 you are not adding PO4 with the water. What you feed the tank, however, could be adding a lot.
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I have nothing to put here because all my writers are on strike! |
#5
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My water straight out of the unit is 2 TDS, after it sits in my container it becomes 45 TDS.
Hardware: 40G Breeder 4 x 65W PC (1 month old) Maxijet 12 Koralia 3 Sea Clone 100 Skimmer (almost worthless) Bare bottom 25lbs of Marco Rock 18lbs of Unavia Tank has been running for about 3 months. Livestock: Clown Goby Chromis Added a Lawnmower Blenny yesterday Mexican Turbosnail Dwarf Blue Leg hermits Feeding: Feeding once a day, alternating between Hakari Brine, Froze Mysis, and Omega One flakes. I don't feel that I'm feeding that much, but it is possible that I'm overfeeding. I'm not rinsing the frozen food before adding. I just add a small bit in a cup, add some tank water, swish around to thaw, then pour back into tank. BTW, that does make since about the test kit reading zero. I'm willing to try different things, but this setup is only temporary as I'm putting together a 90G. So I don't want to buy too much equipment that I will not be able to reuse in a couple months. |
#6
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try and clean out the brute after you empty it, wipe it down with clean water, then refill it with rodi. brute are supposed to be the best, and not leach anything. you may also want to try rinsing your frozen food, see if that helps.
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#7
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How do you rinse the frozen food? Have a very fine net to seperate the food from the water?
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#8
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Yep, it's often referred to as a brine shrimp net.
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The irony of 2007 is a disgustingly fat multi-millionaire trying to tell me I need to cut back on my consumption. |
#9
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What about the flake food, does it contain many phosphates? Should I just not use the flake at all, swith brands, or just stay the course with the Omega One?
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#10
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I feed only small amount of flakes tha my fish can consume in a minute or two - dont feed so much that it looks like a snow storm. I rinse my frozen food through one of those fine white mesh nets (for brine shrimp), pour rodi thru it, then put it in a cup with water from tank. I guess it is the little things you do that add up...
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