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  #126  
Old 12/28/2007, 01:52 AM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by DarG
I guess the old "1/3 rd the output, tested and measured" goes flying out the window.

My expectations were:



-The Nova Pro would have higher par than the TEK with the same bulbs and BOTH UNITS fitted with their acrylic splash shields AND the TEK running stock WITHOUT external fans to cool the lamps/endcaps.



GRIM ... I still have the one question. With the same lamps in both, Nova Pro 6 bulb vs. TEK 6 bulb. WITH the acrylic shield on both units. Both units warmed up and running for a while. And with the stock TEK meaning NO FAN rigged up to cool the TEKs lamps/endcaps. Does the heat hurt the PAR enough in the non-fan cooled TEK with it's acrylic shield in place that the Nova Pro beats it?
The acrylic doesn't really cut much light, less than a percent on a Tek. They have so many vents in them the acrylic isn't really trapping much heat. In the case of the Nova it will start losing PAR if the shield is off. It obviously screws up the cooling sheme.

As far as the Tek PAR goes I think the Tek is going to have more but not by a huge amount. I saw some readings for a guy with a 75 bare bottom which would have the sensor a tad farther away from the tank frame than mine considering my sandbed and raised bottom plate. He got 182 with his fixture sitting 4" above the frame. I know raising my Fauna Marine fixture a little less than 2 inches dropped the PAR from the 280's down to the 240's. It was around a 13% drop. I think saying lowering the Tek 4" would add 25% to the PAR is a very conservative guess. That would make the output about even with the Nova but you gotta remember he was running 2 actinics in his fixture. Lamps were also about 6 months old. I figure running these lamps the Tek would probably be around 250 at least. I will try to score a tek fixture to test but it wont happen till this white nastyness leaves town.
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  #127  
Old 12/28/2007, 02:06 AM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by spongebobby
Do you think the 72 in. model will be enough light for clams on a 24 in. deep tank?
I really don't know. I have seen clams done in a 24" tall tank under a 4x39 Tek but the ones on the sand were pretty big. I think there is a Clam forum here, I would check and see if there are guys doing it with Teks. May even find some Nova users.

I would at least load the fixture with some good lamps. You likely wouldn't be happy with the 50/50 mixture of the 10K and blues but changing out one or two rows of 10K's for Aquablues would probably help the looks and I am pretty sure add a little more PAR.
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  #128  
Old 12/28/2007, 02:10 AM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by axia55
Grim, did I miss where you told the depth of the tank you were testing on?
Also, do you think the 48" 4x54w Sundial fixture would be enough for a 33L (48x12x12") for LPS, a few easy SPS and Derasa's or should I go with the 6x54w Pro fixture?
12" tall, Oh Hell yes, be fine. Just use good lamps.
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  #129  
Old 12/28/2007, 02:23 AM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by luke33
Like i said as soon as these guys came out, the reflectors look exactly the same as the catalina solaris and i thought they would work just fine for most corals. I would have to say the 3-1 ratio is definately out the window Dar. Good job Grim.
Even an Ice Cap reflector only pulls 2 to 1 over a flate white surface. The 3 to 1 that gets mentioned is the Tek reflector vs no reflective background at all. It is probably accurate but how many fish tanks you ever see with No backing of some kind behind the lights?

A polished aluminum AquaZ reflector designed like an Ice Cap had about the same output as a Tek reflector. You figure these are the same material but not as well designed. Hard to say how much less.
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  #130  
Old 12/28/2007, 02:36 AM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by lowfi
i think that i am going to put this fixture on a 50 which is 36 3/8 x 18 3/8 x 19". STOKED...I am pretty sure I will be able to grow almost anything especially if I am particular about placement. Will i be able to grow clams with this??
Should be fine. Like I said before though USE GOOD LAMPS. If you decide to change out any of the 10K's replace them with something like an Aquablue if you don't like the color.
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  #131  
Old 12/28/2007, 02:40 AM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by luke33
Oh, and a great job to Mo for boneing up and making the test possible. Good stuff.
Aboloosly!!!

I just put in a little time and maybe a lamp or two for Mo, He ponied up the money for shipping both ways and trusted his shiny new toy to the Grim monster.
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  #132  
Old 12/28/2007, 04:01 AM
siwelk siwelk is offline
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first, let me say that Grim, you are the man. i really appreciate both you and Mo stepping up to test this new fixture. i feel a lot better about my purchase now that i have some hard numbers to look at. im still learning about bulb selection and PAR and all that so i have a couple questions about your results.

you said in your preliminary tests you got 245 at the sandbed. 17'' deep with the fixture 2'' from the rim. my tank is only 16'' tall so could i expect slightly higher readings from a shallower depth?

is 245 a respectable reading for this fixture with the stock bulbs? when compared to the others you mentioned it seems relatively high. also what is the minimum PAR range recommended for keeping SPS on the sandbed?

lastly, if i choose to replace two 10K bulbs with one ATI auablue and one UVL superactinic do you think this would be a good choice? i would run the super actinic and current blue for dusk/dawn. will this combo of:

current blue
ati aquablue
current blue
current 10K
uvl super actinic
current blue

get me close to fijibues setup? i plan to swap out all bulbs within 6 months but would like to replace 2 of the 10Ks right now. thanks for all your help Grim, im looking forward to a future TEK comparison.
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  #133  
Old 12/28/2007, 12:52 PM
DarG DarG is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
The acrylic doesn't really cut much light, less than a percent on a Tek. They have so many vents in them the acrylic isn't really trapping much heat. In the case of the Nova it will start losing PAR if the shield is off. It obviously screws up the cooling sheme.

As far as the Tek PAR goes I think the Tek is going to have more but not by a huge amount. I saw some readings for a guy with a 75 bare bottom which would have the sensor a tad farther away from the tank frame than mine considering my sandbed and raised bottom plate. He got 182 with his fixture sitting 4" above the frame. I know raising my Fauna Marine fixture a little less than 2 inches dropped the PAR from the 280's down to the 240's. It was around a 13% drop. I think saying lowering the Tek 4" would add 25% to the PAR is a very conservative guess. That would make the output about even with the Nova but you gotta remember he was running 2 actinics in his fixture. Lamps were also about 6 months old. I figure running these lamps the Tek would probably be around 250 at least. I will try to score a tek fixture to test but it wont happen till this white nastyness leaves town.
Grim, if you do get a hold of a TEK and it wouldnt be too much of a hassle, could you do a measurement comparing the TEK without the shield and the TEK with the shield. Measurements would need to be taken after the tek reaches maximum temperature with the shield in place and of course, the same with the shield off to get an accurate comparison. Also, with NO fan rigged up to cool the fixture. Looking for how the fixture performs, stock, with shield vs. without. You wouldnt have to do a complete set of measurements at every point in the tank, just a couple of points to be able to compare the difference between shield and no shield.

The reason ... there was a thread here on RC a while back with a TEK owner noticing a signifigant drop in par after the fixture warmed up. This led to several discussions and I am almost positive that some measurements were done on the TEK and somebody found that the PAR was almost cut in half due to heat build up with the shield in place. This in turn led to discussions of rigging up a fan to cool the TEK to remedy the heat related drop in par. This has been a commonly discussed topic regarding the TEK fixture and it's lack of active cooling. If I'm understanding you, you are saying that the TEK, with the shield in place and NO fan, does not lose any PAR due to heat with the shield in place.
I dont mean to doubt you, I respect and appreciate the time and effort you put in and the knowledge that you share. But from what I have read, this appears to have been a documented issue with measurments done to verify. Sorry, I didnt save the links. I dont see why all of the higher end manufacturers would not opt for a passive heat venting scheme if heat and lost par wasnt an issue when the shields were in use. Why bother with the noise, cost and integration of fan cooling ...

Anyway, if it isnt much trouble and you do get a hold of a TEK fixture, maybe you can do the measurments and put it to rest one way or the other.
  #134  
Old 12/28/2007, 02:33 PM
axia55 axia55 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
12" tall, Oh Hell yes, be fine. Just use good lamps.
Yes as in go for the Extreme Pro (6 bulbs) or yes as in the Sundial (4 bulbs) would be ok?

Thanks!
  #135  
Old 12/28/2007, 02:41 PM
moprint moprint is offline
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I bought this fixture over a Tek for a couple reasons. I don't plan on keeping a full blown Stoney reef was one of the main ones, I get a little behind on water changes and other maintence stuff, to try that. Price was another one a Tek with bulbs, legs, and splashsheild is $562, where this light was $344. My wife would rather wipe a splashsheild then individual bulbs and reflectors every Sat. morning. I was a little worried about the performance, but now the numbers show that this light will do all that I want it to. The Tek is a very good fixture, probably better then The Extreme Pro, and service from Reefgeek is awesome. As far as getting with Grim and getting it tested, I am wondering through this hobby like everybody else and thought this might help somebody else out. I have learned a ton from this site. Grim has put more work into this then me so he deserves all the thanks.
  #136  
Old 12/28/2007, 08:43 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by siwelk
first, let me say that Grim, you are the man. i really appreciate both you and Mo stepping up to test this new fixture. i feel a lot better about my purchase now that i have some hard numbers to look at. im still learning about bulb selection and PAR and all that so i have a couple questions about your results.

you said in your preliminary tests you got 245 at the sandbed. 17'' deep with the fixture 2'' from the rim. my tank is only 16'' tall so could i expect slightly higher readings from a shallower depth?

is 245 a respectable reading for this fixture with the stock bulbs? when compared to the others you mentioned it seems relatively high. also what is the minimum PAR range recommended for keeping SPS on the sandbed?

lastly, if i choose to replace two 10K bulbs with one ATI auablue and one UVL superactinic do you think this would be a good choice? i would run the super actinic and current blue for dusk/dawn. will this combo of:

current blue
ati aquablue
current blue
current 10K
uvl super actinic
current blue

get me close to fijibues setup? i plan to swap out all bulbs within 6 months but would like to replace 2 of the 10Ks right now. thanks for all your help Grim, im looking forward to a future TEK comparison.
The fixture was sitting right on the rim. water level little over 2" below and sensor about 17 1/2" below that.

If you use the legs your PAR will drop quite a bit. The lamp change you suggest should be good. It is enough light for SPS properly placed in the tank. You need to keep the higher light SPS on top of the rocks is all. This unit is close to what a Tek will do.
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Grim tells it like it is.
Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #137  
Old 12/28/2007, 08:43 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by axia55
Yes as in go for the Extreme Pro (6 bulbs) or yes as in the Sundial (4 bulbs) would be ok?

Thanks!
Sorry, Sundail will be fine
__________________
Grim tells it like it is.
Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #138  
Old 12/28/2007, 08:52 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by DarG
Grim, if you do get a hold of a TEK and it wouldnt be too much of a hassle, could you do a measurement comparing the TEK without the shield and the TEK with the shield. Measurements would need to be taken after the tek reaches maximum temperature with the shield in place and of course, the same with the shield off to get an accurate comparison. Also, with NO fan rigged up to cool the fixture. Looking for how the fixture performs, stock, with shield vs. without. You wouldnt have to do a complete set of measurements at every point in the tank, just a couple of points to be able to compare the difference between shield and no shield.

The reason ... there was a thread here on RC a while back with a TEK owner noticing a signifigant drop in par after the fixture warmed up. This led to several discussions and I am almost positive that some measurements were done on the TEK and somebody found that the PAR was almost cut in half due to heat build up with the shield in place. This in turn led to discussions of rigging up a fan to cool the TEK to remedy the heat related drop in par. This has been a commonly discussed topic regarding the TEK fixture and it's lack of active cooling. If I'm understanding you, you are saying that the TEK, with the shield in place and NO fan, does not lose any PAR due to heat with the shield in place.
I dont mean to doubt you, I respect and appreciate the time and effort you put in and the knowledge that you share. But from what I have read, this appears to have been a documented issue with measurments done to verify. Sorry, I didnt save the links. I dont see why all of the higher end manufacturers would not opt for a passive heat venting scheme if heat and lost par wasnt an issue when the shields were in use. Why bother with the noise, cost and integration of fan cooling ...

Anyway, if it isnt much trouble and you do get a hold of a TEK fixture, maybe you can do the measurments and put it to rest one way or the other.
Oh yeah, definatly gotta play. I think the thread you are thinking of was Hahnmeister's fan retro. Don't remember if he did par with no fan shield vs no shield or not. I am going off someone elses reading shield vs none for the Tek. I know that initially the shield on the Nova only changes the output by 2 points with a reading in the 240's. The shield has no real effect on light transfer anyway.
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Grim tells it like it is.
Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #139  
Old 12/28/2007, 08:59 PM
Deb91 Deb91 is offline
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Hello, I have like many have been waiting for you results on this fixture. I don't know much about lighting. Do you think this fixture would be okay for a 46 gal. bow? Thanks in advance.
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  #140  
Old 12/28/2007, 09:41 PM
moprint moprint is offline
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Deb91 Is your tank deeper then 21 inches? What are you planning to keep in it? If you want to keep hard corals and your tank is deeper then 21 inches you might look into the Tek fixture, maybe even with the Icecap 660 ballast. Hey that the 660 ballast idea might be a future upgrade on mine.
  #141  
Old 12/28/2007, 10:26 PM
lowfi lowfi is offline
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Hey grim,

Awesome results, its funny how things play out...i guess the nova is a deal then! Well I am pretty sure my fixture will be on legs, so when you say PAR will be reduced, do you have any guesstimate on how much?? With the bulb setup that you have in your signature...how does that look?? Is it more bluish or is it on the daylight side of the spectrum? If you could post a pic on the thread that would be awesome. I went to ATI's site to read about their bulbs and they wrote that the blue bulbs/actinics really make the fluorescent corals pop, and tanks with little fluorescence should have few blue bulbs. Do you agree with this statement?? I noticed that you have a lot of blue bulbs so am wondering what your setup looks like. Sorry if that was all over the place.
Thanks,
Sean
  #142  
Old 12/28/2007, 10:44 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by lowfi
Hey grim,

Awesome results, its funny how things play out...i guess the nova is a deal then! Well I am pretty sure my fixture will be on legs, so when you say PAR will be reduced, do you have any guesstimate on how much?? With the bulb setup that you have in your signature...how does that look?? Is it more bluish or is it on the daylight side of the spectrum? If you could post a pic on the thread that would be awesome. I went to ATI's site to read about their bulbs and they wrote that the blue bulbs/actinics really make the fluorescent corals pop, and tanks with little fluorescence should have few blue bulbs. Do you agree with this statement?? I noticed that you have a lot of blue bulbs so am wondering what your setup looks like. Sorry if that was all over the place.
Thanks,
Sean
I'll try to figure out the PAR drop tonight.

As far as the look it is a little bit of a purplish blue tint to it. Sort of like 14K halides with VHO actinics running if you have ever seen that.
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Grim tells it like it is.
Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #143  
Old 12/28/2007, 11:35 PM
DarG DarG is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
Oh yeah, definatly gotta play. I think the thread you are thinking of was Hahnmeister's fan retro. Don't remember if he did par with no fan shield vs no shield or not. I am going off someone elses reading shield vs none for the Tek. I know that initially the shield on the Nova only changes the output by 2 points with a reading in the 240's. The shield has no real effect on light transfer anyway.
I dont think it was Hahn who posted that he had measured. I believe it was another poster in a different thread shortly after. I jjust remember that somebody visually noticed a drop in output in his TEK and the info just kinda flowed from there for a little while. But it's been a while.
Wish I still had my Nova Extreme. I would have shipped that one to you if you would have been interested to see just exactly how that flat reflector did. Sold it a couple months ago.

Thanks Grim.
  #144  
Old 12/28/2007, 11:37 PM
Deb91 Deb91 is offline
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Hello moprint, I really don't know how deep it is and am not at home to measure it. As far as what I would would want to keep I was hoping these lights would be good enough for a 46 gal.I know a lot of people have the nova extremes 4x39 and our putting things in and they are thriving! I ask a question and people tell me no way for an anemone, while people with 46 gal were showing me pictures of their thriving tanks just with the 4x39. I just thought I was good to go with the 6x39 nova extreme pro.
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  #145  
Old 12/29/2007, 12:02 AM
hahnmeister hahnmeister is offline
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I measured the par jump when I added the cross-flow fan to my tek. I cant remember the number off the top of my head... it was between 15 and 20 % though. The initial reading was w/o a sheild. Then, when I added one, I bent one side down to create a duct where the fan could blow up into the bulbs, and then that air would carry across the reflectors/bulbs to the other end. The difference in output because of the sheild wasnt noticable, and at the oppsite end from the fan, it actually jumped a little (about 5% I think) because now that end was getting the same cooling as the end where the fan was at.
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  #146  
Old 12/29/2007, 12:21 AM
zedx6 zedx6 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Deb91
Hello moprint, I really don't know how deep it is and am not at home to measure it. As far as what I would would want to keep I was hoping these lights would be good enough for a 46 gal.I know a lot of people have the nova extremes 4x39 and our putting things in and they are thriving! I ask a question and people tell me no way for an anemone, while people with 46 gal were showing me pictures of their thriving tanks just with the 4x39. I just thought I was good to go with the 6x39 nova extreme pro.
Deb, I also have a 46bow and was waiting for the results of this test, the depth from the bottom of the light to the sand bed probably will be about 21" but if you place things accordingly I am pretty sure you will be able to keep most corals and as for the anemone I have 2 and plan to give this light a try as I can't afford an ATI and sounds like the difference between the Tek is minimal.
  #147  
Old 12/29/2007, 02:09 AM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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21" tall should be able to support a BTA but don't go throwing a high lighting anemone in there.
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Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #148  
Old 12/29/2007, 02:22 AM
Deb91 Deb91 is offline
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So you are saying anything that requires high lighting is out of the question?
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  #149  
Old 12/29/2007, 02:35 AM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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No, If you want SPS just keep them up on the rocks a ways. Most anemones need to be able to find enough light and current flow they like. If you get one that only gets enough light on top of the rocks getting it to stay in ove spot could be a PITA
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Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #150  
Old 12/29/2007, 03:20 AM
Deb91 Deb91 is offline
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Okay then thanks for the info Grim.
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