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  #76  
Old 03/06/2005, 05:09 PM
MuskyM MuskyM is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Washington State
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This is going to be a truly awsome reef!!

Thank you for posting so many good pictures and details of your project. It really helps a "newbie" like myself.

When you have the time (what's that, right?) Can you post a diagram of your plumbing system? I think I understand most of it, but a basic diagram of the ins and outs would really help. All the bulkhead fittings that you've put in the bottom of your tank I asuume is for the wave motion unit, correct?

Thank you again for the time you've taken to share your project.
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  #77  
Old 03/06/2005, 05:17 PM
ToUcHoFeLeGaNcE ToUcHoFeLeGaNcE is offline
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Location: NJ
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ummm...did i miss something? Wheres the sump?
  #78  
Old 03/07/2005, 10:15 AM
sidewinder770 sidewinder770 is offline
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Location: Mesa, AZ
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Sump? Who needs a sump?

Kiding of course- the sump and all other equipment (sump, fuge, chiller, heaters, CR, Skimmer, RO/DI, Auto top off,etc, etc) will be in a dedicated and seperately cooled/heated "sump room" that will be about 50 feet away. This is one reason why this project will take so long to complete- the "sump room" still has to be built and the plumbing run to it.

Sorry for not keeping this post up to date but things have been pretty hectic lately. I'll see if I can find my plumbing diagram to post. I also have some updated pics I'll try to post later with all the plumbing under the tank complete and also with the 4-way running and filled with tap water for a leak check.
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  #79  
Old 03/07/2005, 05:26 PM
mako56 mako56 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Algoma, Wisconsin
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I'm with muskm I am thinking of doing something like this in our new addition and am taking in all the info from all the different setups and trying to figure out what will be right for me. I would like mine to be able to be veiwed from three sides and your plumbing thing looks very interesting.
  #80  
Old 03/07/2005, 11:13 PM
sidewinder770 sidewinder770 is offline
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Not the best shot but here is a pic of the plumbing all hooked up except for the 2- 2" drain lines for the sump which won't be in for a while.
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  #81  
Old 03/07/2005, 11:26 PM
mako56 mako56 is offline
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Could we see a pic of the inside of the tank to kinda tell where and what goes on there please?
  #82  
Old 03/08/2005, 09:27 AM
NOLACLS NOLACLS is offline
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Location: New Orleans
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What pump is that on the OM...looks like a Seq Reflo. Could you tell me how tall the OM on top of that pump is?

Its coming along nicely
  #83  
Old 03/08/2005, 12:33 PM
MuskyM MuskyM is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Washington State
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Thanks for the updates!

my Acrylic tank has a clear back that I was planning on either painting or fastening a blue sheet of acrylic on the back. Now that I see what the spray foam looks like, I think I'm going that route.

It's hard to tell from your pictures and I know that you do have a dark back wall, but will the foam be able to cover the entire back adequately? Or do I still need a dark background to start with?

Thanks for your time!
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  #84  
Old 03/08/2005, 03:23 PM
The R/C Man The R/C Man is offline
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Lookin good! Very clean! Kudos....
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Over time science has shown that the simplest answers are usually the correct ones.......
  #85  
Old 03/09/2005, 09:23 AM
sidewinder770 sidewinder770 is offline
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Thanks for the compliments everyone. I will try and post some more pictures of the tank itself in the next few days and put a description of how the closed loop pumps will be working.

NOLACLS-
Yes, the pumps for the closed loops are Sequence reeflo Darts. The return pump from the sump will be a reeflo Hammerhead as well as a Hammerhead driving the dual Beckett skimmer. I'll get some measurements for you when I get home as to how tall it is.

MuskyM-
I had a black back on the tank and that was basically thrown in as one of the "freebies" when I was having the tank made. I'm glad I went with a black back as you don't have to be exact about the foam placement- if there is a little spot here or there that doesn't have foam on it it'll still look good because it's black. Not only that but the foam doesn't go ALL the way to the edges- there is about 2" on the top, bottom and sides that does not have foam on it and obviously the overflow fingers don't have foam on them. I am quite pleased with how the foam turned out and think it is a great idea. It also keeps you from having to buy so much live rock because you'll have "live foam" in about 6-8 months.

The R/C Man-
Thanks- The PCV took a while to do because I wanted it to look correct and function correctly and I'm very pleased with how it turned out. Putting unions on every ballvalve leaving the tank and both sides of the pumps and 4-way was definately a good idea- I can remove all the plumbing and pumps in the picture above when the tank is completely full of water and do any type of cleaning or maintinance I want to without disturbing the tank- Having a dedicated sump room definately helps- otherwise I don't think i could have plumbed it this way and still had enough room for all the equipment.
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  #86  
Old 03/09/2005, 10:07 AM
NOLACLS NOLACLS is offline
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Thanks sidewinder. I am looking to use the reflo barracuda for the CL and one for my sump return on my 280 mix
  #87  
Old 03/09/2005, 10:30 AM
mikeo1210 mikeo1210 is offline
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The foam.. awesome. Glad I read this. Now I know how to fill in all the crevices at the top of my rockwork on my new setup. I've been brain-storming the perfect way to go about getting flat shelves for frags. This looks like it. Thanks! I see you've got a good amount of sps in the smaller tank. I take it it's totally safe or you would've known by now. Did you get one of the guns for the foam or just use the straw?
  #88  
Old 03/10/2005, 08:59 PM
kirstenk kirstenk is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
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I was at Scott's today and this set up is fabulous.

Kudo's to Scott and Erin.
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  #89  
Old 03/10/2005, 11:52 PM
hk hk is offline
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Location: Yucaipa, CA
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Forgive my ignorance, I know it’s done ALL the time, but how do you attach the wood cabinetry to the steel stand?
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  #90  
Old 03/10/2005, 11:55 PM
corb66 corb66 is offline
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"Forgive my ignorance, I know it’s done ALL the time, but how do you attach the wood cabinetry to the steel stand?"

screws or brackets
  #91  
Old 03/11/2005, 10:15 AM
NOLACLS NOLACLS is offline
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Or you can do magnets
  #92  
Old 03/11/2005, 11:58 AM
JazzMan JazzMan is offline
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Location: Westfield, NJ
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Or velcro.
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  #93  
Old 03/12/2005, 04:22 PM
goofball310 goofball310 is offline
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tagging along
  #94  
Old 03/15/2005, 09:36 AM
sidewinder770 sidewinder770 is offline
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Location: Mesa, AZ
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mikeo1210- No need to get the gun- the cans work just fine. I actually didn't use the straw that came with the can either- works just the same without it but if you are trying to fill in cracks you may want to use the straw. The foam is for fish ponds and is fish safe and no ill effects to speak of yet.

hk- so many options- screws, liquid nails, magnets, velcro- I don't plan to use any of those but something similar to this thread-
http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...5&pagenumber=2
Basically just semi-wrap the steel frame in wood that is held together by srews- very easy to do and to take apart if you need to.

I like the magnets idea but never did come up with a way for it to function the way I wanted or look quite right in my mind- good idea and I know others have done it but just not for this particular setup

Sorry for not posting more updates but not much has changed -just been busy and will hopefully resume this project soon.........
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Last edited by sidewinder770; 03/15/2005 at 09:47 AM.
  #95  
Old 03/15/2005, 09:44 AM
JazzMan JazzMan is offline
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Location: Westfield, NJ
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Scott,
One thing you may want to conside is velcro, only because it offers to ability to have full access under the stand when needed. You simply remove the entire front piece of the stand, or the side pieces. I find reaching through doors to be a PITA.

I got the idea from JBNY's site. http://www.cnidarianreef.com/

Send him a PM and I am sure he will explain. His stand looks awesome.
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  #96  
Old 03/15/2005, 09:53 AM
NOLACLS NOLACLS is offline
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Location: New Orleans
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I was thinking about going with magnets for that same reason...I could pull the whole pannel off if I relly need to get in there Would velcro hold better than magnets?
  #97  
Old 03/15/2005, 10:22 AM
gketell gketell is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Pleasanton, CA
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Velco wouldn't rust over time....

And the industrial velcro would definitely hold.

GK
  #98  
Old 03/15/2005, 10:31 AM
NOLACLS NOLACLS is offline
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So how would you attach the one side of velcro to a steel stand...liquid nails?
  #99  
Old 03/15/2005, 10:38 AM
gketell gketell is offline
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Location: Pleasanton, CA
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The industrial velcro has adhesive that will hold all on its own. Scarey-strong. Just wipe down the steel with alcohol to clean it and "press".

GK
  #100  
Old 03/15/2005, 11:26 AM
sidewinder770 sidewinder770 is offline
TOTM- June 2007
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Mesa, AZ
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The velcro is an idea I have been thinking about but I also have the luxury of not really needing to get in the stand very often. The only thing that will be in my stand is what you see above and maybe a few misc items but nothing I would have to get to very often as I am having a dedicated room built for the sump & equipment.

As a side note- The industrial velcro would have no problems whatsoever sticking to the my stand as it was powdercoated- probably a lot better than paint as it is a very smooth surface and won't have the possibility of coming off like paint might- not to mention magnets large enough could get pricey.
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