|
|
|
|
#27
03/27/2005, 02:40 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Joseph, that is very interesting. I've had the opportunity to buy these locally once, and didn't. With my tank being 6 feet, I really don't feel I have the room or the layout to use them. I do have a Super Squirt that I'll be working with soon, and I'm trying to decide where I want the returns to be.
Thanks for the comparison shots. How did you feed air into the plumbing, btw?
__________________
Marc Levenson - member of DFWMAS |
|
#28
03/27/2005, 03:01 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
 Thanks for taking the time to give all of us a first hand review! Some of us don't have the financial resources to experiment, so your willingness to share is sooooooo appreciated!
__________________
Webmaster/Director of SMART Stateline Marine And Reef Tank Serving southeastern MI and Northwestern OH Join us and have a blast! "Do not allow what you consider good to be spoken of as evil." |
|
#30
03/28/2005, 10:49 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
So what would be your recomendation for your tank? 4 Penductors on 1" lines, or what?
I'm designing a 7ft x 2 x 2 tank. I have an Ocean Motion 4-Way. Planning to buy the proper Iwaki Pump to run two Penductors at the same time and let the 4-Way rotate the flow around. Just wondering about the plumbing, should I go 1" or 3/4". Also thinking of having the holes drilled in the sides with bulkheads to screw the Penductor right into the side, that will make them even smaller. Might not be able to Aim Them, might have to screw in a piece of LockLine first. Great Work! Thanks Hef |
|
#31
03/28/2005, 01:48 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
kheflw, That sounds like a great idea, put one or 2 segments of lockline right into the bulkhead and give yourself the ability to swivel them.
When are they going to come out with 1" lockline? It will make life so much easier.
__________________
Derek It's a small world........But I wouldn't want to paint it. |
|
#33
03/28/2005, 04:08 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
DaddyJax: I'm very pleased that this thread has enabled you to get closer to acquiring your new tank.
 A 440-gallon? Very nice.  Thanks for the kind words.RGibson: Yes, at $25. each, this has to be the best bang-for-the-buck addition to my tank. They sort of defy all the laws of physics. Well... perhaps not but they are very cool none-the-less. qwuintus: Actually, more accurately, Penductors or more generally, eductors. But yes, that's what they are and you are welcome. Marc: It really depends on what pump you put behind them. You could still utilize them in your 6' tank but certainly with a lower pressure pump than the Iwaki 55 I am using. Either way, they are a cheap way to increase your flow. I injected the air with a John Guest ball valve I drilled, tapped a hole for on my left closed loop pump's inlet line. I needed a way to drain the line of water when it was time to clean the pump's impeller housing anyway so this is what I did.  selgado: You are very welcome and it's my pleasure. Literally. wonrib00: I will say that most of my SPS slimed just after this experiment but the air injection was just temporary for the visual presentation. The Penductors don't normally inject air but rather just increase the amount of water flowing through them. So... the answers are no and yes, it could be. Hef: I am pleased with the layout I currently have with a single Penductor on each closed loop system, one at each end of the tank. These move enough water to the point of any more and I would have a sand storm. In retrospect, and as you mention, I wish I'd of had the ends of my tank drilled at the area where my closed loop returns are to minimize in-tank plumbing. As far as utilizing Locline to allow for aiming, until Paul at OM starts producing the 1" Locline-similar plumbing, you may have to do as I did with dual 45-degree connectors together for aiming. These allow a multitude of possible angles. Unfortunately, the Penductors come either MPT or FPT connectors which won't allow for a Locline interface in conjunction with a bulkhead. Unless there are some available parts that I am unaware of, that is. As far as the plumbing for your tank goes, I'd recommend 1" all the way, or as far as you can, to the Penductors. This will alleviate as much flow restriction as possible and provide the greatest amount of flow. These Penductors need pressure to operate most efficiently. Joseph |
|
#34
03/28/2005, 04:27 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
A couple things to keep in mind regarding the eductors. 3/4 inch line will be fine to use before them. A Penductor has an outlet of 3/8 of an inch. That hole represents the bulk of the restriction on the pump. The difference between 3/4 to 1 inch line would be very minute then. Remember that a penductor will reduce the amount of flow going through the pump considerably. For example, your pump may flow around 1000 gph w/o eductors, and maybe around 400 gph with. The eductor turns that 400 gph of flow into 2000 gph of in-tank flow!
 Once you start going with a lower pressure pump then an Iwaki 55 or a Mak4 the eductors don't work as well. They still work, but their spray pattern is not as wide. The bigger the pump you put behind them the larger the spray pattern, the actual vellocity does not go up considerably. In other words, it just gets better and better! Also, there is a way to use loc-line with eductors. I can't find the pic, but you need a 3/4 FPT. You need two 3/4 loc-line to 3/4 MPT adapters and you need one loc-line adapter that joins the two of them together.
__________________
When all else fails, turn up the flow!!! |
|
#36
03/28/2005, 04:55 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
littlesilvermax: Excellent and thanks for the link. That component will do the trick perfectly and thank goodness it's not only available in the orange color.
Regarding the 3/4 or 1" line statements, I would still recommend 1" in that the flow restriction is still going to be less regardless of the upstream restrictive eductor nozzle. He was inquiring as to the whole plumbing recommendation and for this, 1" couplers (90-degree and such) will provide more overall flow. I say this with my desire to always attempt to achieve the greatest amount of efficiency. Thanks again for your input. Joseph |
|
#37
03/28/2005, 05:39 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Weatherson you are absolutely correct. Going bigger is always better when it comes to flow. Because of possible changes to our system it is always best to use the largest diameter piping available that fits. I was just saying that for those of us that have smaller pre-existing plumbing, it may not be worth changing everything. But, if you want to maximize everything......
__________________
When all else fails, turn up the flow!!! |
|
#38
04/04/2005, 08:49 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Weatherson,
Your ventilation system of your light housing is intriguing. Do you know the airflow rate of the fans? I'm considering a bathroom exhaust fan rather than PC fans in my hood and wondered if a system like yours would work as well as an exhaust fan. My only heat source for my tank will be lights (750 watts MH + VHO) for a 180 gallon tank. Thanks. |
|
#39
04/04/2005, 09:12 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I was just going to ask about venting also. How do you remove the heat from the room. I have a similar hood as yours (well its moldeled after yours anyway pics in my gallery) and exhaust it into the attic. I also have a bathroom vent installed (110cfm) and it is not doing the trick. I have a ~240g system, three 400w MH's and the room is 9' x 7'.
Thanks |
|
#40
04/05/2005, 03:26 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
matt & pam, mylittleocean: The two fans I am using are rated at 130 CFM each. But, they are in a push/pull configuration with one blowing room air into the light box and the other, at the opposite end, blowing heated air out of the light box. I may, at some point, add a hose on the inlet fan and attach it to the outside wall with a pass through so it pulls outside air in to be sent through the light box and out to the attic. This way, during the summer months, I am not displacing inside conditioned air which will need be replaced by outside, extremely hot air. It often hits over 100-degrees here, days on end.
 Joseph |
|
#41
04/05/2005, 03:54 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
|
#42
04/05/2005, 05:34 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
mylittleocean: I have the ceiling fan on high 24/7 in the tank room. During the not so hot months, I have a stationary fan on a floor stand aimed through the door to force air out of the room and into the rest of the house. I also have a box fan at the window that moves cool, outside air into the room.
When it gets too hot outside, I have a portable AC unit that keeps the room cool with all the fans off except the ceiling one. This one always helps with evaporation and to drop the tank temp a few degrees. With the whole-house AC run at comfortable levels, the in-room portable AC unit doesn't have to work very hard at all but adds in the extra bit to keep things at acceptable levels. If anything, it mostly just counteracts what heat the chiller is dumping into the room. How's that for complicated? I'm considering a remotely located (outside) chiller that I would plumb through the wall but this will require a lot of work including running a power source out there.Winter months, I direct the hot air from the light box, through the wall and into the main living area of the house. Needless to say, my house heater works considerably less than it used to prior to this arrangement. It's nice to recoup some of the energy wasted by the lights, though.Joseph |
|
#44
04/05/2005, 05:51 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
DerekW: You say that like it's a bad thing.
Seriously, no more than what is in the tank room which is minimal. I run carbon on my skimmer's air outlet which helps tremendously.Joseph |
|
#45
04/05/2005, 06:08 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
closed loop question
I just set up a new prop system with two main tanks and an 80 gallon sump. On one of my tanks I drilled it for a closed loop. I have two 1" bulkheads in the back of the tank about 2-3" off of the bottom of the tank. I have both of the bulkheads connecting to one 1" pvc with a ball valve and union which goes to the pump. I am using a blueline 40 hd-x. THe output is split into four 1" pvc which goes to bulkheads and 3/4" plumbing in the tank. My problem is that when I turn the pump on it makes a rattling noise like there is something in the pump, but I took it apart like three times and it still continues to rattle. Is it possible that the increased flow going into the pump, because it draws water from the bottom of the tank, could make the impeller vibrate back and forth? THe pump is located below the tank about 1.5 feet. THe only way to make the pump quiet is to partially close the ball vale on the intake of the pump, which reduces the flow greatly. Did I do something wrong with the plumbing? Any help would be appreciated. thanks
|
|
#46
04/05/2005, 07:08 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
__________________
When all else fails, turn up the flow!!! |
|
#47
04/05/2005, 07:42 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
very cool
__________________
People do things, it's a fact! CORA Member |
|
#49
04/06/2005, 07:51 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Yeah, I had to run 2 dehumidifiers in the basement, and turn the humidifier on my furnace off this winter, all the cold water pipes were dripping, windows were foggy. And in Canada, it is dry, dry, dry in the winter. I need to vent air outside. it means I'll have to drill a hole through cement blocks to get it outside...sounds like work ;(
__________________
Derek It's a small world........But I wouldn't want to paint it. |
|
#50
04/06/2005, 10:01 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
WOW
I just finished a speed read of the entire post, simply amazing. If my final 180 system is 25% of what you have created Ill be happy I would hate to pay your electric bill, the same system in Wisconsin would be $177(.08 x 2213 KW a month) a month, so I assume in california is $400+. Steve |
|
|
Linear Mode
