WOW!!! My endcap just caught on fire

[chorse7111]

I'm really surprised to hear about all the fires but then some of the wiring jobs I've seen are scary. There are several things you can do to minimize potential problems. Use only the 2 piece Italian or 3 piece German end caps rated for VHO's. I prefer the Italin style myself. They tighten easier. The slip on type caps are notorious for slipping off and on due to warming and cooling of the bulb. When installing lighting, it is best to use what they call "stand-offs" that are attached to the bottom of the end cap and they are screwed directly to your canopy. Ends caps can't slip off when these are installed properly. If you're using clips to hold your bulbs, have someone put pressure against the end of the bulb so you tighten caps correctly. End caps have 8 positions for adjusting the position of the light bulb. 2 of the positions are such that the pins align with the slot used to install the bulb. This is a poor contact position for the pins and a definite design flaw. Also remember that Ice Cap and Workhorse are different types of ballasts. Ice Cap uses specific circuitry and wiring patterns. Both pins on the end of the bulb require contact to function. Workhorse uses a common for all bulbs and individual power leads. Only 1 pin on each end of the bulb is needed to light the bulb. I will gladly help with your questions - Woody/SeaHorse Aquarium Supply

[jarhead]

Originally posted by chorse7111
End caps have 8 positions for adjusting the position of the light bulb

What is the purpose for all these positions? Which is the ideal?

[chorse7111]

Not always are bulbs mounted on the underside of a canopy. once in a while they are mounted on the side. When bulbs have built in reflectors, you need to turn them toward the light.

[shawnz28]

Hey Jeff I know i am coming into this late. See what happens when you do things the "right" way I would have always thought it would have been the other way around. We need to hook up one day before winter hits.

[Phantom Phish]

I found this to be a sobering thread, and well worth while. My take on reading through it is that this thread seems to suggest that a lot of these fires might be caused by intalling the endcaps with out using the screws to firmly attach the "standoffs" on the endcap to the canopy, so that the endcap doesn't come loose and allow arcing with the bulb.

I think it'd be enlightening to know, of the people that have had these fires, how many didn't install the endcaps using the standoffs as suggested in the new instructions from IceCap?

[SciGuy2]

Hate to say it, but I experienced scorching of the endcaps eventhough I installed them firmly to my canopy. BTW, the melting I had caused the circuit to fail preventing a fire.

[Phantom Phish]

Yeah, that's what I'd like to get a feel for SciGuy2. Whether the mounting of the endcaps is related to these fires in a significant number of cases, or not.

[Tim]

In my case the endcaps were mounted correctly

[Imaexpat2]

Found out about this thread, AFTER catching my canopy on fire! Thank God I was late getting outta the house yesterday morning, otherwise it would have been "multiples of saddness".

My fire problem is currently being investigated now. The lights were only 4-5 weeks old at best and used securely mounted stand off caps. Results thus far are the wiring was good and correctly assembled by Hello Lights. There was no moisture in any of the 4 sets of caps. The fire originated from one pin on one of the lights. I am still waiting for further results from the investigators.

I really dodged a bullet here and wished I would have been aware of this thread much earlier. Its made for a real sobering read......

[WWiley]

I made my own standoffs. I heard the end cap arcing a day or to before it started to burn. WW

[jimsar]

Are T-5's susceptible to this fire hazard? It seems like everything in this thread involved VHOs.

Jim

[ASH]

From IceCap:
They are likely to be at least as susceptible. When a lamp reaches end of life, the ballast is supposed to shut down. Ours is made that way for any lamp load. From GE's OEM brochure:

"The normal end-of-life failure mode for fluorescent lamps is emitter material depletion of one of the
electrodes. In most cases the discharge will extinguish and the lamp will not start again. In some cases the
ballast is capable of sustaining the arc even if the above mentioned condition occurs. The voltage drop
will rise and extra power dissipation will take place in front of the depleted cathodes. This could lead to
overheating of the glass near the cathodes, caps and the lampholders. Ballasts should be designed to
limit the power or switch-off when detecting this condition. Various cases of voltage rise are possible: if
both cathodes are deactivated or broken, the voltage rise would be symmetrical. If only one cathode is
broken the voltage will be asymmetric. The ballast should switch off in both cases. ...."

Andy

[Imaexpat2]

ASH

Would this be a possibility with a new bulb ran for 12hrs daily for 35 days at the most? I mean I was kinda under the impression that the bulbs were good for 6 moths or so depending on length used. Seems like this could have been a possibility. I could be wrong though...

[dwall174]

Originally posted by Frick-n-Frags
I have decided to remove all the endcaps. I am going to screw around with some kind of little screw terminal deals that maybe can be slipped on a bulb pin and tightened down without soldering or like those slip on spade lugs that go on car stereo speakers etc.

Find any terminal's that will work?
I always have my soldering iron handy also!
Thanks again for the heads up

[Frick-n-Frags]

Not yet.

There are some high voltage terminals and hardware which I am looking at right now to see if it can be used. They use replaceable terminal elements around the major components in machines because one spark flashes the whole terminal into vapor and you would have to replace the whole component otherwise. But so far, they just aren't quite the right size or shape.................

[Cayman]

I think the best prevention is to, every month or so, loosen the collars on the endcaps and rotate the tubes to breakup any corrosion that is starting. You can take the tubes all the way out and inspect too but I think the rotating is the best part of the routine. We should also do this with all the plugs around the tank; plug and unplug them a few times to clean the connections. The reason I do this is because GFI is not going to help when arcing starts, the current is still following its intended path and there is no short circuit or ground fault, just a ton of heat created by the arc which is created by the electricity finding its way around or through the corrosion occuring between two metal parts.

[t-i-double-grr]

This thread scares the SH!T out of me!!! I've got a pretty sad diy hood and I wired up the lights! I want to go home sick from work and hack the endcaps off and solder the terminals.

[ASH]

Imaexpat2, the GE brochure section I posted was for T-5's only.

You mentioned a lamp's pin as the possible source, and a loose bi-pin is a loose cannon. Always check your lamps when you first use them that there is no wiggle in the pins.

Cayman, monthly lamp checks might cause more problems then it would solve. The least problematic applications are those properly installed and not played with save for an occasional wipe down on the lamps when they're off. The lamps were never intended to be installed and removed regularly. And as much as it might keep the contacts from any build-up, it will wear the contacts and reduce the spring in them eventually. Good UL approved waterproof endcaps will seal out any salt-spray.

Andy

[EnglishAl]

Just found this thread and have some info that may help those who are replacing their endcaps by direct wiring (like Fric-n-Frag). I have a UV sterilizer system on my Koi pond. It's made by Aquanetics I think. I remember when I last replaced the bulb that they use a metal (brass or copper) female wiring accessory that is crimped (or soldered) onto the ends of the wires from the external ballast. They are covered with a rubber sleeve and they just push onto the pins on the tube. They are quite tight and do not pull off easily.
Hope this helps.

Cheers

Alan

[Frick-n-Frags]

Sounds verrry interesting. Would you be able to post a pic or two?? thanx.

(go away or I will taunt you a second time... MP rules!!!!)

[EnglishAl]

Frick-n-Frags
I will go out to the pond today and disassemble it to take some pics. I am not sure where you get the connectors from - I did a search on AMPS website but got burried in info and no pics.

Cheers

Alan

[Ace]

Oh man, I just found this and now I want to leave work and go check my system. And here I am worrying about my sump overflowing.

[ASH]

From IceCap:
Pause for thought. Hard wiring fluorescent lamps is not the solution. The only benefit I can see is people will use their lamps longer knowing what a pain it is to change them.

Lets assume the worst, there's a fire. When they get a look at your DIY wiring job I don't think the insurance company will run to cut you a check. Any manufacturer related to your lighting would be on firm ground to say you failed to follow instructions. You could shove a black and white wire into your A.C. outlet, but would you?

Recommending that a reef hobbyist remove their endcaps and solder wires on to their lamps, possibly in-place as the wires are already cut to size, is an invitation to trouble. Lamp holders when used correctly, safely hold lamps. If someone changed their tire and failed to use the lug-nuts, the solution is not for everyone to weld their tires onto their car. Bi-pins are actually made to fit into the lamp holder, not to be heated up to accept solder. If the pins become loose because of the heating you applied or because they're used to hold up the lamp (or will you now need to add acrylic sleeves to hold the lamps in place?) there could be arcing between the bulb and the pins. Ironically, arcing may be caused by a sloppy weld or fraying wires may TOUCH the other wire, pin or contact.

Think about what you're recommending and to who.

Andy

[EnglishAl]

Frick-n-Frags
Here is the picture of the push on connectors for my UV tube. The pins on the bulb are 0.090" diameter. The writing on the connector insulation says 1 CSA KDRALLY HIX-VW although this may be referring to the insulation and not the connector.
Sorry about the blurry photo but my camera does not have macro mode.

Cheers

Alan

[melev]

Originally posted by ASH
From IceCap:
Pause for thought.

[snip]
If someone changed their tire and failed to use the lug-nuts, the solution is not for everyone to weld their tires onto their car.
[snip]

Think about what you're recommending and to who.

Andy

That is a very funny analogy! <-- that's me welding on tires while the vehicle is moving.