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  #76  
Old 10/07/2003, 08:35 PM
Tim Tim is offline
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Quote:
I can't fathom any way to make endcaps 100% arcproof. I am too afraid to ever use them again.
I for one agree 100% My new tank will be exclusively MH with incandesant for moonlight
  #77  
Old 10/08/2003, 12:26 AM
ktwalker ktwalker is offline
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For those who are interested, I fixed up my 440 to help with the risk factor. Still not as secure as it could be (I'm not using the screw-downs because of lack of space), but it should help. Both products are from home depot in San Diego, but there are similar products elsewhere.

kris
  #78  
Old 10/08/2003, 12:26 AM
ktwalker ktwalker is offline
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right side
  #79  
Old 10/08/2003, 12:27 AM
ktwalker ktwalker is offline
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left side
  #80  
Old 10/08/2003, 12:27 AM
Jimbo327 Jimbo327 is offline
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I didn't know end caps can catch on fire. Hmmm...must go check end caps now.

Jim
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  #81  
Old 10/08/2003, 09:37 AM
ASH ASH is offline
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From IceCap:
I was asked,
"please verify that the ground plane of the PC board is tied to the case and the line ground so that additional case grounding is not necessary if the 110 socket has a good ground. Thanx again."

As long as you scrape some of the paint off our case, attaching a ground wire to our ballast's case does connect to ground if you use a three prong plug or hard wire the power ground (green) wire to an active ground post.
Andy
  #82  
Old 10/08/2003, 03:42 PM
Frick-n-Frags Frick-n-Frags is offline
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Thank you for making that clear
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  #83  
Old 10/08/2003, 04:44 PM
SPC SPC is offline
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Hi Andy,

So let me get this straight, the end caps should be secured to the canopy. The use of bulb racks alone is not recommended?
Thanks,
Steve
  #84  
Old 10/08/2003, 04:54 PM
ASH ASH is offline
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From IceCap:
The task of writing the fool-proof guide to endcap installation and maintenance is going to take us another day or two. It may come down to actually reading and following instructions or having a professional do the installation for you. This is a scary thread because we can all imagine the worst case scenario happening to us.

I've noticed that several posts have said the following:
"The only way I can think to do this for those using the three piece endcaps(FYI Icecap isn't the only company making these or using them) is to check them regularly for damage and scorching."

We only sell the two piece hard plastic endcaps, not the German three piece versions. This is not to suggest there's anything wrong with their water-proof endcap. When we post the specifications on the materials used in UL approved endcaps you'll understand why both, when used correctly, are safe.

There are no waterproof PC holders. It almost seems self evident.

We'll get technical shortly but I can tell you now that mounting endcaps is not an option, it's mandatory.

Andy
  #85  
Old 10/08/2003, 08:10 PM
Tomzpc Tomzpc is offline
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^
  #86  
Old 10/08/2003, 08:44 PM
WWiley WWiley is offline
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I had an end cap just starting to burn about a year ago. Is there a exact distant that end caps should be mounted at, that will seat the bulbs perfectly on each end. WW
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  #87  
Old 10/09/2003, 09:52 PM
ejmeier ejmeier is offline
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I am glad that I found this thread when I did. I am just now in the process of wiring up some new VHO lighting (my first time with these types of endcaps/sockets) and have learned a ton of potentially life-saving information from this thread.

-Using solid wire instead of stranded for the endcaps. (THANKS!)
-Making sure there is no warping and the endcaps are mounted on a sturdy location.
-Using some sort of band or other means to ensure a tight connection between the bulb and socket. (If you look at some commercial fluorescent fixtures, they are TIGHT - you have to really jam those bulbs in there! I plan to do the same with my DIY projects).

To top it all off, just yesterday I was changing a PC bulb in my canopy, and thought everything was fine. When I shut the door to my canopy, the bulb started to flicker and I heard an arcing sound.... Turns out the bulb wasn't pushed in all the way! I almost walked away but finally realized something was wrong! This is some scary stuff.

I can't believe this sort of thing doesn't happen more often. I mean, if you mis-seat the bulb, or don't have a tight connection, you could have serious trouble. I am definitely going to make it a point to stress to everyone that I talk to that uses this type of lighting to make SURE everything is tight.

But, I think that there must be more than just safety precautions. We all can make mistakes from time to time. It is like having a GFCI. I know I don't mean to spill water on an electrical connection of have a flood, but hey - it happens. I think the same holds true for this situation. I think we should definitely take a closer look at this arc-fault interrupter as a safety net IN ADDITION to the other things already mentioned in this thread. I am eager to see if this device is capable of doing what some claim it can do.
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  #88  
Old 10/09/2003, 10:16 PM
Thales Thales is offline
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Frick,

When you hardwired your bulbs, did you cover the end with anything - besides the shrink wrap?
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  #89  
Old 10/09/2003, 10:49 PM
Seacat Seacat is offline
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I've been away from the board for a few weeks, had an auto accident and just happen to come to the forum today to do some reading, when I came upon this particular thread.

When I did my DIY hood I "mounted" my endcaps to the hood, and didn't use any bulb holders. The only thing that holds my bulbs in place is the end caps themselves.

To get a tight fit (but not superman tight) I put the bulb's in the endcaps, tighen and then place the assemply in the hood and mark through the holes of the endcap standoffs. Place a mark, move the assemply, predrill the hole, replaced the assemply over the predrill holes, and screw the endcap standoffs down.

I have very little end to end motion of the bulbs in their holders.

I can't say that I did a fool proof way of mounting to keep the vho from catching fire, but after reading several horror stories here about endcaps catching fire. I was trying to think ahead.

I wouldn't think there is any other way of attaching your bulbs, but to use the standoffs themselves.

There's one other thing that I did also, seal the ends were the wires inter into the endcaps with silicone sealeant. I gooped that stuff on, didn't even spare the horses either!
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  #90  
Old 10/10/2003, 08:35 AM
Flatlander Flatlander is offline
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So do you guys drill for the wires, as they enter through the top of the stand-offs?
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  #91  
Old 10/10/2003, 09:31 AM
Seacat Seacat is offline
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Hmm. actually my wires intered through the bottom of the standoff, then up into the endcaps, no drilling necessary....for the wires anyway.
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  #92  
Old 10/10/2003, 09:52 AM
Kenzy Kenzy is offline
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Doug : that's what I did, just enough for the wires to be fed through what ever you're using to support the endcaps with then sealed with silicone.
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  #93  
Old 10/10/2003, 11:42 AM
Flatlander Flatlander is offline
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Seacat, what kind are those? Mine only have holes in the up side. They are the 2-piece Icecaps. Guess I will have to drill Brad.
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  #94  
Old 10/10/2003, 01:39 PM
ASH ASH is offline
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From IceCap:

VHO Endcap Instructions
Attached Files
File Type: doc vho waterproof endcaps installation instructions.doc (37.0 KB, 466 views)
  #95  
Old 10/10/2003, 02:56 PM
Seacat Seacat is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Doug Lowey
Seacat, what kind are those? Mine only have holes in the up side. They are the 2-piece Icecaps. Guess I will have to drill Brad.
Trying to find a Pic link for you to see, unable to at the time, perhaps latter. I got my retro set from Premium. You might talk to Jason or one of the other guys and ask them about the standoffs.
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  #96  
Old 10/10/2003, 06:03 PM
johnstringer johnstringer is offline
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I had an idea about prevention, but the device may kick-off too late, but here is the idea; given someone with a bit more electronic knowledge then me would need to attempt to make this device;

Take a 8" or so 1" diameter PVC, and cut slices through it on one half, to make vents. Remove the "smoke detecting device" from within a smoke detector and rewire to cut a curcuit when activated, instead of the buzzer. Have the PVC device in the hood, with two power connectors being a through flow, but can be broken when the smoke detector activates. Plug the ballast in one side, and the other to the current.

The idea being if smoke is detected in the hood, the power to the ballast is tripped, hopefully preventing the problem from getting to the fire stage.

Any elect. guys think this is half/way feasible ?
  #97  
Old 10/10/2003, 07:59 PM
Frick-n-Frags Frick-n-Frags is offline
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I think that is a cool idea in general and could be implemented easily. Still, my beef is that you have to have a fire first for this to work.
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  #98  
Old 10/10/2003, 09:28 PM
conundrum conundrum is offline
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Seeing Ice Cap respond to this issue of products they don't sell and rapidly institute guidlines to reduce the risk of improper installation is one of the reasons I own their products and will continue to in the future, thank you andy.

Nothing is completely safe, heaters, pumps, lights etc. will fail. I will continue to inspect all my devices every day as usual because some failures are out of our hands.
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  #99  
Old 10/10/2003, 11:22 PM
esmithiii esmithiii is offline
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I also respect the heck out of ASH for adding to this thread and for being so specific. I will definitely buy their products in the future.

Ernie
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  #100  
Old 10/11/2003, 02:23 AM
greenman greenman is offline
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what if it gets in the water ?

Quote:
I have some dielectric grease that I will be putting in and around my endcaps.


I will say it sounds like a great idea!
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