New 24g Nano Cube, Help & Suggestions Please

[mathias999us]

Hey NC-Newb -

I've seen a variety of lights used for macroalgae. Some people even use incadescent bulbs. But, you'll probably get the best results with a 5600K to 6700K bulb. Even 10K bulbs should work, but probably not as effective as one of the lower color temperatures, as the lower temps spur algae growth, which is what you WANT for your fuge (encourage the algae you want, so it outcompetes the algae you don't want). I've also seen people use those little acrylic guppy breaders for a makeshift fuge in the main display. I believe this would probably work fairly well, but I haven't tried it. The disadvantage is that it will "clutter" your otherwise clean display, you can't run it on a reverse photo period, and your fuge won't get it's own bulb type that encourages algae growth. I have a 6 gal nano that I started at the beginning of december, and I may add a guppy breader with some chaeto myself...

I personally think you'd probably be fine adding some chaeto at this point. I don't believe it is very sensitive to nitrites. But some people might tell you that it will interfere with the cycle. Also, you should be able to find someone in your area who whill give you some for free. After all, people who use it are throwing chunks of it out on a regular basis I threw away many piles of the stuff over the course of running my last tank before I moved.

[NanoCubeNewbie]

Mathias - Thanks for your input and information, I really appreciate it! And I must say I just looked at your site with the pics of the long nano your building and it was awesome! I'm almost embarrased that your looking at what I'm doing, LOL. Beautiful tank man!

[SeaSerpant]

looks good so far. any updates?

[mathias999us]

Hi NCN - Nooo problem at all, SO glad to help.

Thanks very much, but don't be embarrased! You're off to a good start already for your first tank. The most important thing you can do right now, is listen to what people on this site tell you, even when it's not what you want to hear (like when someone says, you really should spend $300 on xyz, or you'll have problems). I learned that the hard way, hopefully you won't have to. Your tank will be awesome if you are patient, and listen to what others have to say. I've seen plenty of 24g JBJ cubes that will blow my tank away.

[NanoCubeNewbie]

UPDATE - Some coraline looking pink stuff is starting to grow. I got tired of waiting to stock it so I printed and cut out and taped on the front a few possible future inhabitants. There is also a lot little algae looking things growing and swaying in the current. I had a problem with the light this morning, but replaced the fuse and it's all good now. I was very worried for a few minutes though. I plan on getting a bigger pump and a power head this weekend. I also found this cool stuff at WalMart when I went to buy some batting to use as filter floss. Its batting, but its formed in like a seat cushion shape. about 2" thick and then 15" x 15". I measured the length and width of my first back chamber and cut some 2" rectangles that fit perfectly. I took out one of the black sponges and places 3 layers of this new product in its place. This is the first area the water hits. I will be able to replace it easily every week or so and is so inexpensive I couldn't believe it. By the way, if you plan to use this material, rinse it before you put it into the tank. I did not and there were little fibers swirling around for about an hour. Luckily there isn't anything alive in there yet. I am also using the surface skimmer attachement thingy that comes with the NanoCube. I will likely get a skimmer eventually, but not until or shortly after I insert some residence. That's all for now, more after the weekend.

[cerreta]

Just found your thread. Glad to see you in the hobby.

Most of your questions have been addressed, but i have a few suggestions for you.

Current lighting will support lps, softies, shrooms, and zoos. These animals are also a bit easier to care for. That is a great way to start in the hobby. Clams and sps require advanced skill and you will quickly be discouraged if you experience big losses so early in the hobby.

My favorite tank was a 90gallon softy. The movement of corals is awesome to watch. I delved into sps for the challenge and that it was. Learn more first. RC is a great source for that.

Speaking of movement, you need more flow. Look into the Tunze nano stream or Korallia pumps for flow.

I do not suggest adding light to the internal sump. The light back there will supprt lots of critter growth and internal chambers are difficult to clean. If you wish to add a separate fuge that would be fine.

I added light before to an internal sump and was very dissapointed, so just my experience, do what pleases you and monitor the effects. That is the best part of the hobby.

You should strive for SG of 1.025 +/- 0.001. This is close to NSW and corals thrive well at this level. If you experience infections like ich then you can safely drop SG to about 1.021 for a week to help rid the parasite. A little trick.

All incoming corals should be treated with a dip to ensure a healthy tank. Freshwater dips work great on mushroom corals and zoos. TMPCC or Lugols solution work well for hard corals. If you come to the Frag Swap we can teach you how to do this and we suggest that all people that buy/trade corals treat the new specimens to prevent community infections. Read some threads on coral treatment and dipping.

The Phoenix group is quite large and had an epidemic with AFEW resulting from all the local trading and additive stress of corals. Best to pretreat all incoming specimens.

The best advise I can offer fellow aquarists is this:

1. Have a plan and keep a log. (I can send you a chem log) Decide what corals and what fish to keep. Make a list and buy when you can, take your time, and modify the plan as your knowledge advances.

2. Perform weekly water changes. Nothing works better than manually exporting the bad and importing fresh nutrients.

3. Maintain exceptional water quality. Everyone says it, few describe it. Specifically you need to monitor Alkalinity and Calcium weekly, once the tank is established. If you can maintain a stable Alk of 10 dKH and a Calcium of >450 then nitrite, nitrate, PO4, Mg, pH, etc will all be within normal parameters. This took me years to learn and once learned is still difficult to achieve in a nano tank because these two parameters flux daily as your corals consume these nutrients from the water.

Speaking of test kits, invest in higher quality kits. I recommend Salifert. You mentioned previously that you are having difficulty determining colors of your sample with the card. Try to avoid using kits like this. These are graduation tests.

Almost all Salifert kits are tiration tests. This includes alkalinity and Calcium, which you should purchase. The difference is that titration kits require you to add a solution until the endpoint is reached. At this point, the color of the solution changes. Regardless of the color it becomes, your test is done and it is absolute. There is no guesswork with titration tests. You get the result by comparing the level of reagent remaining in the syringe to a chart. Viola an exact value without guessing which color is closest to your sample, in which none of them really look right.

The Salifert Phosphate kit is a graduation test. I no longer use it and purchased a digital phosphate meter.

Have fun man!

[NanoCubeNewbie]

I was wondering if you could suggest a reputable place to buy these 2 new tests you speak of within the Tucson area. I was told when I bought my test kit that it would be all I would need. $36 dollars later I still need to test for 2 more things. Do you think I can buy the alkalinity and Calcium seperately? You mentioned a Salifert test kit. Maybe I should go ahead and upgrade to that. Where can I get it and how much should I expect to pay? And how much is a digital phosphate meter? By the way, the water I'm using is direct from the system at the LFS. I'm not sure if their water is actually a little high at 1.026 or this stupid junk hydrometer I bought from the same LFS is reading wrong. By the way, I went to this particular LFS because I was given 2 gift certificates to it for Christmas.

Keep the feedback and comments coming I really appreciate it!

[mathias999us]

1.026 is the SPG of natural sea water, and MANY people run their tanks at this level. There havn't been any studies that I'm aware of that indicate that we should run our tanks at any other salt concentration than that of natural sea water.

(Salifert is one of the most respected test kit brands. Expect to pay between $15 and $30 per test type. Calcium was like $25 last time I got one)

[NanoCubeNewbie]

The hydrometer I have has a whole range of numbers, but the one's between 1.024 and 1.020 are bright and bold and stand out like thats where the needle should point. I also thought I read that 1.024 is optimal. Well, atleast that is cleared up. Thanks!

[mathias999us]

I think people with FOWLR like to keep their tanks at a lower SPG because it discourages parasites, but when you're keeping corals and inverts, a higher SPG like that of natural sea water is better for pH, Calcium, Alk, and Mg levels.

[cerreta]

Locally test kits are rather expensive. Alk about $25 and Ca about $35-40.

You can buy them separately.

I would not try to replace the kit you have. You need it for the break in period. After your tank is established and you get your alk and Ca values up, then you will only be needing the other kits on rare occasion. Usually I check these other parameters about every 6 months out of boredom. They are always in check.

Two worthy online stores are Marine depot and Premium aquatics. The kits are $15 Alk and $22 for Ca. You can also buy some Oceans Blend 2 part for about $15-20 and the cost of shipping will still be less than what yo uwill pay locally.

Or, you can bring a sample of water over to my house and I will test everything. I can do it at the Frag Swap too, if you remind me to bring the kits.

The digital meter is about $200 and not worth the investment until your obsession grows.

Try to save your money to replace those stick-on corals

Oh, btw, I use cheto as a natural filter floss instead of fiber floss. You may want to try this. I just throw out teh cheto and replace it (got a good source ) monthly just like floss. Only this is a more natural approach and the cheto is so tightly would that it serves as a great filter.

[NanoCubeNewbie]

Well, I got some chaeto from "Zoa Keeper". It has so much cool stuff in it that I can hardly believe it! I took out almost all of my inorganic materials from the 3 chambers in the back. No more floss or sponges or ceramic rings or charcoal, etc. Now, in the first chamber I have my heater. In the bottom of the second there is some rubble rock and on top of that is the chaeto. In the 3rd is the pump and a small bag of Chemi-Pure. On the advice of many on here, I purchased and installed a Hydor Koralia Nano but I was unable to locate locally a Maxi-Jet 1200. I think for now I'll stick with what I've got and see if my first inhabitants like it or need more flow. I also got the rubble rock I mentioned and a cup of really lively sand from a highly recommended LFS. I guess the rock and sand I bought weren't what I was expecting and not what I thought I was buying. The new sand and rock had stuff crawling and living all over it, it was really cool to see, especially in my own tank. I also purchased "Kent Marine" part A & B Ion Buffer System liquid additive. Been using that in the evening when the lights are off. The coraline is still slow growing, but what looks like brown mucky stuff which I'm assuming is brown algae is everywhere. Not sure if I need the clean up crew yet or not. My levels are still not to zero and I'm closer to the beginning of the cycle than I originally thought. Anyone who has been keeping up with this thread has heard that I was having problems with the colors on my tests, so before I tell you what they were, take a look at the pics and let me know what you think. I will also be posting some updates of the now brownish rocks in the tank. Let me know what you think.

[mathias999us]

Hey NCN -
I think you'll be fine without the maxijet for now, since you went ahead and got the koralia - keep it on the backburner as a future mod that's easy.

Your configuration on the sump chambers sounds quite good.

I think it's still too early to add CUC. My interpretations of your test kit results are ~20ppm nitrate, .25ppm nitrite, no or very little measurable amonia, 7.7 or 7.8 for pH. Looks like the cycle is progressing well. At the minimum, wait until the nitrite is undetectable before CUC. For your pH, it is a little low, but that's a VERY common problem. Don't worry too much yet. First get your Calcium and Alkalinity test kits. You can raise your alkalinity and pH at the same time with buffer. Need to know your alkalinity before you go adding buffer though.

Think the colors on the test kits look fine though, nothing funny going on. Keep it up, you're still on a good path.

[mathias999us]

One thing I forgot to ask, how are you getting light to the chaeto in the sump chamber?

[cerreta]

I think the measurements are what Mathias reports.
The algae looks like a cyano bloom. Is it slimy?

Try to manually remove it. If it is slime algae, you should have good luck siphoning it up and blasting it off with a turkey baster.

Looking good!

I can test your alk and ca if you need it. Send me a PM. LFSs can do it too for cheap, if not free.

[NanoCubeNewbie]

Do you think I should try to blow it off or just leave it for the CUC to worry about? Some of it looks really slimy and some looks like thick, long dark hairs.

Thanks for looking at my test results and giving feedback. I know the tank is not ready and still cycling. Just wondering if I'm reading them the same way others might.

[cerreta]

That is too much work for the crew. Siphon up and manually pluck off what you can. Then blow off the remaining algae and let your filter remove the rest. Pick off that green filamentous algae too.

Before you blow off the algae, place a bit of that floss you have in the first section of the overflow. After the water clears in a few hours throw it away. This will keep your sump area clean.
Cheers

Manually removing the algaes will allow your tank to stabilize faster. Since you have no fish or coral at the moment, this is the best time to remove the problem.

If the slime algae becomes a problem, I have had good success with using Red Slimer Remover. Marine Depot sells it.

[NanoCubeNewbie]

I currently have a small undercabinet, fluorescent light which I have encapsulated in a water proof tube and placed in the top of the back chambers. I plan to get a submersible fountain light since it is made to be waterproof. No need for a fish fry before I even get the fish in, lol.

I have once again rearranged the rocks and think I might finally be happy with the design. Since purchasing my original LR I have seen so many other neat looking rocks I wish I had. I'm not about to change out the one's in there now. No need to start the cycle over and the one's in there now have a bunch of little things living on them including dozens of little brittle starfish. I had one little white starfish but after stirring things up the last time, I haven't seen him . The new design is more of a pile in the middle of the tank and pretty evenly stacked away from all sides and the top. I've read that stacking too close to a side will lead to detrius build up and too close to the top won't allow for coral growth upwards.

My levels are at or very near 0. I added 2 blue and 2 red legged hermit crabs and 2 turbo and 2 nassarus snails. I will add some pictures shortly.