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  #76  
Old 01/21/2006, 11:04 PM
cmondo cmondo is offline
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With the razor blades, I would suggest that u rinse them off with fresh water, then dry them off after you use them. That would help with the rust issue.
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30g pipefish reef:
4-T5 icecap retrofit, self plumbed closed loop and drain, diy stand, and diy sump.........looking back I don't think I saved any money doing it myself, maybe next time it will work
  #77  
Old 01/21/2006, 11:17 PM
MAreefer1 MAreefer1 is offline
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I tried a DIY project with attaching the razor blade to the magnet(some generic breand from walmart) and the razrs were from HD, so why do they get so rusty in the salt water? what metals dont rust in salt? im no chemist...so thats why im wondering
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BRS
  #78  
Old 01/22/2006, 12:11 AM
TheCoralReef731 TheCoralReef731 is offline
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Neither am I (I'm a high school student, just like you) , but I do know that saltwater is very corrosive on LOTS of things. Pumps and filters that aren't made for Saltwater will break usually within a year if they are used in saltwater. The salt could just eat away at the protective layer on the razor, so that the water gets to the more vulnerable metal sooner.

I was thinking of rinsing them off, but I forgot to. It seems like such a hassle, when I could just buy a few more. They are cheap, right?

I was also wondering about too much flow. One of the SPS on the left (the acropora) doesn't seem to open it's polyps at all. Maybe they are too small to see, but I don't think that they are open. I have a 175 gph powerhead situated on the RBTA, and the 2 returns from the sump which have a 181 gph flow coming out of them. As I said before, the returns have X's cut into them, so the flow is concentrated. Is this too much?
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  #79  
Old 01/22/2006, 02:20 AM
10" Red Devil 10" Red Devil is offline
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Well my friend I am just warning you but its going to get to a point where you will have to pull it out every day in order to maintain the sanity of the tank. I mean I hope that isnt the case for you but it sure was for me. Then you gotta worry about it going sexual and spreading large amounts of po4 and no3 into your tank. However I dont know if you will have that prob since you are harvesting it regularly although I still had the problem.
  #80  
Old 01/22/2006, 02:33 PM
TheCoralReef731 TheCoralReef731 is offline
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Thanks for the warning. I tried to pull a bunch out today. It is hard. I can get big clumps, but not the base.
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  #81  
Old 01/22/2006, 02:37 PM
TheCoralReef731 TheCoralReef731 is offline
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I just got 4 more corals today, but they have been hard to super glue onto rocks. Right now, they are all just resting on the rock formation. What should I use?
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  #82  
Old 01/22/2006, 02:44 PM
TheCoralReef731 TheCoralReef731 is offline
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Coral List

Yellow Tubenaria
Green w/ neon green polyps Acropora
Trumpet Coral
Purple tip stag
GSP
Neon Green Zoos
Neon Blue Zoos
Brown/green zoos
Birdsnest
Blue/purple Acropora
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  #83  
Old 01/22/2006, 09:12 PM
TheCoralReef731 TheCoralReef731 is offline
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  #84  
Old 01/22/2006, 11:05 PM
cmondo cmondo is offline
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looks like u are running out of space with the way that the rockwork is set up....ever think of switching it up a bit?
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30g pipefish reef:
4-T5 icecap retrofit, self plumbed closed loop and drain, diy stand, and diy sump.........looking back I don't think I saved any money doing it myself, maybe next time it will work
  #85  
Old 01/22/2006, 11:57 PM
gfk gfk is offline
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that anenome looks like its kinda close to those corals, that bad boy is gonna grow quickly
  #86  
Old 01/23/2006, 12:04 AM
cmondo cmondo is offline
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Yeah, i agree, anenomes have a habit of doing that...lol
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30g pipefish reef:
4-T5 icecap retrofit, self plumbed closed loop and drain, diy stand, and diy sump.........looking back I don't think I saved any money doing it myself, maybe next time it will work
  #87  
Old 01/23/2006, 03:05 PM
10" Red Devil 10" Red Devil is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by TheCoralReef731
I just got 4 more corals today, but they have been hard to super glue onto rocks. Right now, they are all just resting on the rock formation. What should I use?
Yeah and when you pull it out it seems to spread it more.

New corals look great!
  #88  
Old 01/23/2006, 05:40 PM
TheCoralReef731 TheCoralReef731 is offline
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Thanks everybody. Yes, the rockwork has been limiting the space that I have, but I am worried that if I change the rockwork, the anemone will move. If only I could keep the anemone rock in the same spot while moving the other rocks. If I have a less steep slope, maybe it will hold more corals.
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  #89  
Old 01/24/2006, 07:55 PM
TheCoralReef731 TheCoralReef731 is offline
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I figure I could also put some eggcrate in while I move the rocks around. Would it be okay to take the corals out of the water to move them into the sump, or should I keep them in the main tank on the right side?
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  #90  
Old 01/24/2006, 10:01 PM
cmondo cmondo is offline
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they will be fine with the move, how long u plan on keeping them in the sump, and what kind of lighting would u have down there?
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30g pipefish reef:
4-T5 icecap retrofit, self plumbed closed loop and drain, diy stand, and diy sump.........looking back I don't think I saved any money doing it myself, maybe next time it will work
  #91  
Old 01/25/2006, 05:59 PM
TheCoralReef731 TheCoralReef731 is offline
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An hour or two. Not long. Just flourescent untill my flood light arrives in the mail.
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  #92  
Old 01/25/2006, 07:50 PM
cmondo cmondo is offline
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Yeah that will be fine, just wait till nightime, that way u don't have to worry about the light at all.

And just to make sure, you are getting the light, then moving the corals right??
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30g pipefish reef:
4-T5 icecap retrofit, self plumbed closed loop and drain, diy stand, and diy sump.........looking back I don't think I saved any money doing it myself, maybe next time it will work
  #93  
Old 01/25/2006, 08:20 PM
Ti Ti is offline
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nice tank
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  #94  
Old 01/25/2006, 11:43 PM
TheCoralReef731 TheCoralReef731 is offline
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Cmondo - Most likely I will get the light beforehand. It should come this weekend or next. The RBTA is getting big. I am trying to incorporate a way to isolate the RBTA from the corals so I don't have to worry as much.

Thanks Ti
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  #95  
Old 01/26/2006, 01:04 AM
cmondo cmondo is offline
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The only thing that I can say about isolating a rbta in a 20 gallon tank is goodluck.
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30g pipefish reef:
4-T5 icecap retrofit, self plumbed closed loop and drain, diy stand, and diy sump.........looking back I don't think I saved any money doing it myself, maybe next time it will work
  #96  
Old 01/26/2006, 04:07 PM
TheCoralReef731 TheCoralReef731 is offline
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Well I guess I don't have much of a choice.

Anyways, it's a 25
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  #97  
Old 01/26/2006, 04:25 PM
cmondo cmondo is offline
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I am confused then, cuz it says 20g on this thread, and in ur profile....
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30g pipefish reef:
4-T5 icecap retrofit, self plumbed closed loop and drain, diy stand, and diy sump.........looking back I don't think I saved any money doing it myself, maybe next time it will work
  #98  
Old 01/26/2006, 05:11 PM
TheCoralReef731 TheCoralReef731 is offline
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Yeah, im gonna get it changed
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  #99  
Old 01/28/2006, 05:26 PM
TheCoralReef731 TheCoralReef731 is offline
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Okay, I changed around the aquascape. It isn't as interesting or original, but it does have lot's of nice features for my corals and RBTA. Here are some pics:



Some stuff I used for the reaquascaping. I had the corals, fish, and shrimp in the refugium. I had the rocks in the 10 gallon tank in the pic.




















I'm sorry about this picture. It should be turned 90 degrees to the left. It shows how some rocks touch the back glass. Is this okay? Mostly just rubble touching, one or two bigger rocks.
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  #100  
Old 01/28/2006, 11:08 PM
TheCoralReef731 TheCoralReef731 is offline
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I'll get a FTS up when the sand settles.
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