4 or 6 Bulb Unit Tek Light for 40g Breeder?

[roushracer]

Making the move away from halides possibly, and wondering which would be best for a 40g breeder.

This will be a mixed reef tank, w/ softies LPS and SPS and possibly a clam or anem later on.

Any input would be much appreciated!

[macawmagic]

i've got 8 t5s on my 75. love the light! I've got a mixed tank. softies, lps, and sps. i would say the 6 bulb just because more is better! good luck!

[carb850]

Have you considered the Aquactinics TX5? It is a 5 bulb setup with individual reflectors, acrylic cover, and fan. I believe I will get one for my 40 breeder.

[roushracer]

I was under the impression that the Aquatinics wasn't as good. Something about the fans blowing directly on the bulbs and the reflectors...

[hahnmeister]

The Aquatinics is better because of that. I would second the TX5 idea.

[trd47]

I've got the aquatinics and don't regret purchasing it. I have the tx5 and the colors of my corals pop so much more than my previous lighting system.

The tx5 fan DOES NOT blow fan into the house, the fan on there is an exhaust expelling the unwanted hot air. the shield thats on there should be kept on so the fan can effciently move the hot air out and I read some where on reef central that you lose very little if no intensity with the shield on.

that reminds me I also remember reading a thread but i forgot the title where people who went with the 6 bulb set up cause bleaching on their coral.

[carb850]

The one hesitation I have with the TX5 on the breeder is that I fear it would be too much for a softies and LPS tank. If I was having problems, then I could cut the photoperiod down of the second switch. Also it can be raised if I go with the hanging setup.

[Steve973]

Originally posted by roushracer
I was under the impression that the Aquatinics wasn't as good. Something about the fans blowing directly on the bulbs and the reflectors...

The fan blows out, so it pulls air in from the opposite side. Unlike halide bulbs, fluorescent bulbs do better when they are cooled. The Aquactinics TX5 fixture is awesome. Make no mistake about it

[InsaneClownFish]

I've actually visited Aquactinics workshop. I was going to purchase a TX5 for a completely new setup. However, I've actually rethought my plans and might actually resuse my 40 Breeder and SLS 36" 6 bulb Tek light.

The main problem I was having is that with the acrylic shield and glass top...with the light sitting right on the water...they create alot of heat.

I'm going to do an open top setup and hang the fixture this time. This should alleviate 85% of the heat.

The two are a toss up on a 40 breeder for two very important reasons.

The Tek light has electronic ballasts which will run the bulbs cooler and more efficiently- with the added safety of EOL technology.
The downside is there are no fans.

The Aquactinics runs on magnetic workhorse ballasts. Less efficient and run a bit hotter.
The upside is the great enclosure and fan to compensate.

The Tek light has a better spread for a 40 breeder and an extra bulb...it literally fits the tank perfectly.

The Aquactinics has one less bulb, a narrower spread(b means of actual bulbs covering physical dead space over the tank), but it has FAR better reflectors that criss cross....pretty much identical to Icecap SLRs...

Toss up...

[roushracer]

Hmmm, okay. Yeah, wasn't sure on the Aquatinics thanks for clearing that up. I've only seen the Teks in action personally, and I must say I was very impressed.

I'll have to do more research on the Aquatinics, as they may be an option now.

I run an open top tank, and the light will have to use legs. I think they both have legs as an option, but I'd like for it to be pretty close to the water, maybe 4-6 inches at most.

I do have softies, but they are under halides now so I think they should do fine with the transition. I also have alot of ledge rockwork they can be placed under if need be.

Any one have pics/comments/suggestions of either of these lights in action? Search only works for me in the wee hours =P

[InsaneClownFish]

Being local to the manufacturer helps, as I've seen all of these systems in action. In fact, a local fish store featured two aquactinics systems in their reef room. They probably had 12 reef tanks in the whole store, and the two with Aquactinics lights...one an MH/T5 combo and another a T5 solar flare blew away all the other tanks, and as advertised- very cool.

A local reefer had their MH/T5 system and loved it, but he eventually got rid of it because as much as it stayed cool, and kept the tank cool, it blew enough hot air to keep his living room like a mini-sauna.

Then again...not an issue for the T5 units.

Keep in mind this. When I originally talked with SLS back in the day, they discouraged me from doing what I was stubborn enough to do anyway...put the lights right on the tank. This was not only because of heat concerns, but because the reflectors were designed to be several inches above the waterline to work correctly.

The Aquactinics fixtures were designed to sit right on the waterline. You lose alot of light when you move them off- I've seen this first hand.

The Aquactinics are nice because of the integrated uv shield. The Tek fixture Uv shield is junk. *sigh*

It's a tough call. Have you researched any all-in-one setups...lol I've actually broken down my 40 breeder after 3 years mainly because of heat issues. As I said, I'm considering re-doing it, but in all honesty, it is much cheaper to start out fresh with say a 30g Finnex ALO setup. I counted $600.- $700. to make my current setup open top and functional-....hmm not when I already have a $400. offer for the whole thing and I can get a Finnex cube complete for $550.

[hahnmeister]

Or get some sheet aluminum and build your own fixture. Then the components are as good as what you put in. Click on my red house to see how I made some (and have more on the way).

[carb850]

Originally posted by InsaneClownFish

Keep in mind this. When I originally talked with SLS back in the day, they discouraged me from doing what I was stubborn enough to do anyway...put the lights right on the tank. This was not only because of heat concerns, but because the reflectors were designed to be several inches above the waterline to work correctly.

So in your opinion, do you think the TEK fixture would be a better choice between the two if one planned to hang the fixture?

Any clue how much the acrylic shield cost? If hung, would it be necessary?


I was all for the TX5, still might get it, but I don't care for the fact that it has a magnetic ballast. I didn't know that before this thread.

[Aquactinics]

Sorry to butt in but I just wanted to clear up some misconceptions about the TX5 fixtures.

Originally posted by InsaneClownFish

I've actually visited Aquactinics workshop. I was going to purchase a TX5 for a completely new setup. However, I've actually rethought my plans and might actually resuse my 40 Breeder and SLS 36" 6 bulb Tek light.

The main problem I was having is that with the acrylic shield and glass top...with the light sitting right on the water...they create alot of heat.

With the TX5 fixtures there is little heat. The heat that would be created between the fixture and glass top is not enough to affect the tanks temperature or fixture.

The Tek light has electronic ballasts which will run the bulbs cooler and more efficiently- with the added safety of EOL technology.
The downside is there are no fans.

The Aquactinics runs on magnetic workhorse ballasts. Less efficient and run a bit hotter.
The upside is the great enclosure and fan to compensate.

The workhorse ballasts are not magnetic, they are electronic and do not run any warmer then other T5 spec ballasts.

The Tek light has a better spread for a 40 breeder and an extra bulb...it literally fits the tank perfectly.

The Aquactinics has one less bulb, a narrower spread(b means of actual bulbs covering physical dead space over the tank), but it has FAR better reflectors that criss cross....pretty much identical to Icecap SLRs...

Toss up...

The TX5 is a narrower fixture with 5 lamps, but the spread by any means is not narrow. As InsaneClownFish pointed out the reflectors are setup in a concave form that criss cross for better lamp color mixing and allowing for a much wider spread of light.

Thank you,

Tom
Aquactinics

[TropTrea]

I won't mention brand name however I have converted to T-5 HO lighing.

On my 40 gallon breeder I'm using a 4 bulb fixture and will say that I realy love the amount of lighting and the spread especialy compared to a MH set up for this size of a tank. The big thing with the 4 bulb set up though os the selection of bulbs one uses and there personal taste. I went with a stadard 2-10,000K's and 2- Atinics. For my personal taste these are slightly to blue however my corals seem to love this lighting. I'm thinking of replacing 1-10,000K with a 6,500K and one of the Atinics with a Blue + or other bulb in the 12,000K to 20,000K range.

On my 120 gallon I'm using an 8 bulb set up. Again great light distribution. However with the 8 bulb set up I think the selection of bulbs is even more important even though you a greater ability to mix and match. With 216 watts of atinics I think it just a little to much atinic power and will be replacing at least one of them with a blue plus type bulb. on the 216 watts of "daylight" I'll be switching to at least 1 3,000K or 6,500K. It is a pitty that I cannot find a 5,000K in in T-5 HO as I used to love these bulbs for my fresh water planted tanks when combined with 10,000K bulbs.


An added note on cooling. Watch the location of the fans especialy if your using a canopy top. The cooling inlet and outlet of these fixtures should allow for an unrestricted air flow. I'm presently reding my canopies for this issue.

Shop around compare features, prices etc before you buy. There are some fantastic deals out there if your not in a rush. Simularly there is some garbage out there, and price does not necessarly reflect quality.

Dennis

[hahnmeister]

Giesemann Midday is a 5000K bulb.

[roushracer]

Awesome, a reply straight from Aquatinics!

Aquatinics, in your opinion, is your 36" fixture comperable to the 36" Tek 6 bulb in light output? It seems you have better reflectors, but wondering if that makes up for the one less bulb.

All I knew were Teks locally, but I'm hearing alot of good things about you guys online.

[hahnmeister]

The lack of fans on the Tek kills the output by about 15-20%... more than one bulb. Combine the cooling with the better reflectors, and the Aquatinics can make more light with less bulbs.

The only thing I dont like is the workhorse ballast. Its not the best T5s ballast out there. Still, you could rip out the ballasts and put some Sylvania/Advance/Universal/Vossloh-Schwabe in there. You can pick up T5 ballasts on the cheap on ebay.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search...&fsop=1&fsoo=1

[carb850]

What is the problem with the workhourse ballast?

[hahnmeister]

Startup mechanism and thermal sensing are lacking. Its been a long time since I compared myself the exact breakdown, but I do remember the output on WH ballasts to be lower, and the longevity of the bulbs to be not as good. Perhaps Grim would be the better one to ask.

Perhaps Aquatinics could offer an upgrade w/ the better ballasts???

[Giga]

I was going to use the tek 4 bulb 24" for my 24"x18"x20" but now I don't know anyone have pictures of either working on a tank? I like the tek-light because of there 2.5" height

[Aquactinics]

Originally posted by roushracer
Awesome, a reply straight from Aquatinics!

Aquatinics, in your opinion, is your 36" fixture comperable to the 36" Tek 6 bulb in light output? It seems you have better reflectors, but wondering if that makes up for the one less bulb.

All I knew were Teks locally, but I'm hearing alot of good things about you guys online.

roushracer,

I do not want to step on any toes here and do not want to stir up a big debate (especially when it's not in our own forum). Feel free to ask around or ask this same question in our RC forum. Thank you for your understanding.

Tom
Aquactinics

[Aquactinics]

Originally posted by hahnmeister
Startup mechanism and thermal sensing are lacking. Its been a long time since I compared myself the exact breakdown, but I do remember the output on WH ballasts to be lower, and the longevity of the bulbs to be not as good. Perhaps Grim would be the better one to ask.

Perhaps Aquatinics could offer an upgrade w/ the better ballasts???

Hahn,

That is not entirely correct. The workhorse ballasts can produce the same ballasts factor (power output) as other T5 specs ballasts, but it all depends on which model and lamp/wiring combination is used. The ballast factors when using Workhorse ballasts for T5 HO lamps can range anywhere from 0.8 to 1.2 (1.0 or 100% being optimal) The variables are which model WH ballast in combination of what wattage T5 HO lamps and number of lamps and wiring diagram used. I will say this though, it is possible to overdrive T5 lamps on WH ballasts, but you will end up burning out the lamps in matter of days.

To offer ballast upgrades is a lot easier said then done. Some of our fixtures are already using T5 spec ballasts such as T5 ballasts by Sylvania. Others still use the Workhorse ballasts simply because other ballasts companies do not offer ballasts that can do what we need, such as drive 4 39W T5 HO lamps on one ballast.

Thank you,

Tom
Aquactinics

[TropTrea]

Going by pictures can be very misleading. The camera may automaticly make corrections for light as far as both intensity as well as color balance. The only way to truely eveluate lighting systems is through measurement and eveluation of the light spectrum they create. Even simple Lums or PAr value can be misleading dependent upon your specific application.

Dennis

Originally posted by Giga
I was going to use the tek 4 bulb 24" for my 24"x18"x20" but now I don't know anyone have pictures of either working on a tank? I like the tek-light because of there 2.5" height

[Giga]

I just want to see what looks better I'm building my tank as clean as possible