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  #1  
Old 07/09/2005, 01:36 AM
spazz spazz is offline
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ocean runner metric conversion (pics)

i have had alot of people ask me how i converted my ocean runner pumps form metric to standard fittings.
this is a detailed (pics included) description of how i did them.
first you need the pumps. for this conversion i used 4- OR 3700 pumps. then you need 4-1" unions, 4-3/4" unions, 5 ft 3/4" pvc pipe and 5ft of 1" pvc pipe. for the glue i used weldon 40. (note... i feel that weldon 16 dont give a very strong bond thats why i used weldon 40)
first you have to cut off the metric fitting on the top of the pump
for this i used the trusty table saw.



cut all the fittings the same so it looks right when assembled.
then you need to cut your unions shorter so they fit right. i cut them as short as posable so they have less chance of breaking off.
cut all the fittings straight so the pipes dont sit crooked.
  #2  
Old 07/09/2005, 01:47 AM
spazz spazz is offline
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now you need to fit the cutoff unions to the top pump fitting.
mix up your weldon and apply it to the cut off part of the 3/4" unions . set in place and let cure.




while these are curing cut you 1" union to fit over the threads in the pump and still have the locking collar for the pump moving freely.
these unions will fit loose on the threads. dont wory about it. once these are cut take some more weldon 40 and apply it to the inside of the union and slide it over the threads untill it bottoms out. then apply a small amount of weldon over the ousside of the threads next to the union. this will give it a very secure seal.

  #3  
Old 07/09/2005, 01:59 AM
spazz spazz is offline
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now you are ready to fit the pumps to the skimmer body. i use the standard suction cups and base plates for the pump.
(note... this helps isolate any noise these pumps might make. they are very silent pumps though. you cant even hear them running)
set the pumps up next to the skimmer where they will sit when mounted permanty.






now you need to cut the pipes that go on top of the pump. (note... i used a pvc bender to make these pipes)
first make the top pipes so they just touch the body of the skimmer. trim as needed to fit properly.





now cut the bottom pvc pipe to fit snugly against the skimmer body. i find its easer to do the top pipe first because its longer and bent. the bottom pipes are straight so there is nothing hard about them.

Last edited by spazz; 07/09/2005 at 02:52 AM.
  #4  
Old 07/09/2005, 02:28 AM
spazz spazz is offline
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now you need to cut the holes into you skimmer body. i use a drill and a dremmel to cut and widen my holes to fit the bulkhead through the body. get all the fittings in place and tight before gluing them together.
start by tightening the bulkhead up. i used a little weldon 40 between the bulkhead nut and the body of the skimmer to prevent any leaking. the rubber washer was used on the inside of the skimmer.
after this is done you are ready to fit the top pvc pipes and glue into place. then you glue and fitt the bottom pvc pipes. i do it this way because its easer to glue the fitting on the bottom last. always have the fittings connected to the pumps for proper alignment.
while these are curing you can make your air venturies for the pumps. here is what i use for them.
i orderd thes parts from priemum aquatics.

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch...Code=johnguest
here is the modifications i did to the fittings to make them work. i used a belt sander and sanded the washer in the center of the fitting off. then sanded a taper to the end of the fitting. then drilled small holes for a little extra air.






now you need to drill a 1/4" hole into the bottom union. make sure there is enough room to get the collar of the union off with out hitting the venturie.
this is where i placed mine.


here is a look form inside the pipe.

Last edited by spazz; 07/09/2005 at 02:54 AM.
  #5  
Old 07/09/2005, 02:44 AM
spazz spazz is offline
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once the venturies are fitted i use some weldon 40 to glue them in place.

(note.... you will have to make a restrictor of some sort to restrict the incomming water to the pump in order for the pumps to suck air into them. im making plates that look like washers and drilling holes into them a little bigger each time untill i get the right size i want. then you can restrict the air flow to get the right bubble size. its trial and error)
here is the finnished product ready for wet testing. i used salt water in the first test to see what size the bubbles were. i did have 1 leak next to the bulkhead so that has to be fixed. also note my really wet shirt from making restrictors to see what the pumps would do.


this is just my way to convert these pumps. use this method at your own risk.
i hope this hepls those people who want to try these pumps but dont know hot to convert them to standard fittings. these are super quiet and very efficent pumps.
if i missed something just ask. thats what this thread is for.
  #6  
Old 07/09/2005, 10:13 AM
Phisher Phisher is offline
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WOW!

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  #7  
Old 07/09/2005, 10:47 AM
Osler@thesea Osler@thesea is offline
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Nicely done!!! Thank you for posting this.
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  #8  
Old 07/09/2005, 01:39 PM
reefwonders reefwonders is offline
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Thanks for posting the info. That is a swet looking skimmer. I like making alot of my own equiptment too.
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  #9  
Old 07/09/2005, 04:47 PM
orlenz orlenz is offline
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On mine I took the pump to true value hardware, they had a 3/4" union that fit right on the existing half union that comes on the pump, I had to also buy a different "o" ring to fit in the union,
I just swapped the O ring and screwed the female half of the new union on the existing Male half that came with the pump, only cost a few bucks.

  #10  
Old 07/09/2005, 06:00 PM
spazz spazz is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by orlenz
On mine I took the pump to true value hardware, they had a 3/4" union that fit right on the existing half union that comes on the pump, I had to also buy a different "o" ring to fit in the union,
I just swapped the O ring and screwed the female half of the new union on the existing Male half that came with the pump, only cost a few bucks.

what did you do for the threaded end on the pump? what brand name of fitting is it that fits the metric ends?
  #11  
Old 07/09/2005, 06:48 PM
orlenz orlenz is offline
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Looks like is says M BK for the brand, Part number 164-604
in the pic I posted, the bottom half of the union is the peice that came on the pump, The top half of the union is the part I bought, had to buy the whole union and just used that half of it, screws right on.
  #12  
Old 07/09/2005, 07:37 PM
spazz spazz is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by orlenz
Looks like is says M BK for the brand, Part number 164-604
in the pic I posted, the bottom half of the union is the peice that came on the pump, The top half of the union is the part I bought, had to buy the whole union and just used that half of it, screws right on.
what did you put for a fitting on the inlet side of the pump?
  #13  
Old 07/09/2005, 07:46 PM
orlenz orlenz is offline
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on the inlet it's a 1" coupling with female threads on one end, it screwed right on with some teflon tape, the other end I had so open up a little with my dremmel and glued a venturi from a sedra 9000 to it. I bought mine from custom aquatic, but I think they should all be the same.
  #14  
Old 07/09/2005, 07:53 PM
Andru881 Andru881 is offline
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when I moded my g3 with a ocean runner pump I cross treaded the out put side into a 1" treaded female adapter and glue the crap out of it, this looks like a much much much better way to do it =)
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  #15  
Old 07/11/2005, 05:42 PM
spazz spazz is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by orlenz
on the inlet it's a 1" coupling with female threads on one end, it screwed right on with some teflon tape, the other end I had so open up a little with my dremmel and glued a venturi from a sedra 9000 to it. I bought mine from custom aquatic, but I think they should all be the same.
you must have cross threaded the fitting on to it because they are metric fittings.
  #16  
Old 07/11/2005, 07:08 PM
orlenz orlenz is offline
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No it screwed right on just fine, the only thing I can think of is maybe the 3500 is different than the 2500, or the guy at true value had a metric fitting possibly.
  #17  
Old 07/12/2005, 12:49 AM
spazz spazz is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by orlenz
No it screwed right on just fine, the only thing I can think of is maybe the 3500 is different than the 2500, or the guy at true value had a metric fitting possibly.
he must have had metric fittings because my standard home depot fittings wouldnt work on the inlet.
  #18  
Old 07/12/2005, 02:58 AM
GreshamH GreshamH is offline
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My 2500/2700 has a standard 3/4' FPT for both the intake and outlet, and it didn't come with any true unions. Is that normal or did i just luck out some how?
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  #19  
Old 07/14/2005, 07:12 PM
Ramble On Rose Ramble On Rose is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by GreshamH
My 2500/2700 has a standard 3/4' FPT for both the intake and outlet, and it didn't come with any true unions. Is that normal or did i just luck out some how?
I just got 2 2500's (well 2700 w/ the NW) and on both in and outputs a 3/4" fits.

  #20  
Old 07/14/2005, 08:41 PM
hsvtoolfool hsvtoolfool is offline
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Fascinating!

Please clear up one point of confusion. You're bonding dissimilar
plastics: ABS (or perhaps polystyrene) at the pump and PVC at
the union. Weld-On #40 (by IPS Corp) is a two-part epoxy,
correct? This is a structural adhesive that bonds like any other
epoxy. This is NOT a solvent like Weld-On #4 or PVC glue.
  #21  
Old 07/16/2005, 10:12 PM
spazz spazz is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by hsvtoolfool
Fascinating!

Please clear up one point of confusion. You're bonding dissimilar
plastics: ABS (or perhaps polystyrene) at the pump and PVC at
the union. Weld-On #40 (by IPS Corp) is a two-part epoxy,
correct? This is a structural adhesive that bonds like any other
epoxy. This is NOT a solvent like Weld-On #4 or PVC glue.
yep you have it right. this is an epoxy not a solvent. they (ISP)say its a 2 part polomerizing epoxy.
  #22  
Old 07/25/2005, 03:19 AM
merlock116 merlock116 is offline
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two questions. when you inserted the JG fitting into the union, which side did you put it on? the threaded side or the flange side that the nut pulls on? I'm guessing the threaded side...

where did you put the discs with the center holes? did you cut the discs so their OD is just slightly smaller than the ID of the union o-ring?
  #23  
Old 07/25/2005, 10:34 AM
spazz spazz is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by merlock116
two questions. when you inserted the JG fitting into the union, which side did you put it on? the threaded side or the flange side that the nut pulls on? I'm guessing the threaded side...

the venturie is on the collar side with the female threads. it could be done to either side of the union. its the owners prefrence to where it goes. i didnt want them on the pump side of the union because if you take the pump off, the airlines stays with the main body of the skimmer.

Quote:
Originally posted by merlock116

where did you put the discs with the center holes? did you cut the discs so their OD is just slightly smaller than the ID of the union o-ring?
the disks are located inside the skimmer body on the end of the inflow pipe. its easy to fill up the body most of the way and turn the pumps on. then start with a 3/8" hole. if the pumps cavate then you need to make it bigger. you go until the pumps dont cavatate. this will give the skimmer good suction when its completly full. it might cavate when its full of water and running, because of the higher head it has to suck air against. then you restrict the air back a little or make the hole in the disk a little smaller. when its completly tuned up, take a little weldon 16 and glue the restrictors in place. just use a drop of weldon 16 incase you decide to chanje things around later down the road and you need to retune the skimmer.
i hope this helps. any other questions just ask. im here to help.
  #24  
Old 08/23/2005, 02:42 AM
Bishop Bishop is offline
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I'm think I'm missing something in that first picture; you're cutting off the male threads of the original metric fitting on the pump, and then also cutting and gluing down different (1") unions over the remainder of the old metric fitting?

The discs then you speak of? Are they pictured? They just restrict the intake of the pump to allow the achievement of low pressure to draw in air?
  #25  
Old 08/23/2005, 11:52 AM
spazz spazz is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bishop
I'm think I'm missing something in that first picture; you're cutting off the male threads of the original metric fitting on the pump, and then also cutting and gluing down different (1") unions over the remainder of the old metric fitting?

The discs then you speak of? Are they pictured? They just restrict the intake of the pump to allow the achievement of low pressure to draw in air?
you didnt miss anything. you understand it.
 


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