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  #26  
Old 12/10/2007, 03:23 PM
jnarowe jnarowe is offline
2011.5
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Poulsbo, WA
Posts: 9,742
Quote:
Originally posted by 46bfinGA
Ohh I see the vent right next to the fan. Duhhh! That is basically the same way I plan to do my room only difference would be the vent will be on the opposite side of the room. I was hoping that would cause the air to move across the room a little better. Not sure if it would make a difference?
Absolutely would make a difference. What you see there is just temporary to vent fumes. Current setup looks like this:



It's hard to see but in this picture behind the skimmer is the vent van connected to flexible ducting. To the right it goes to the outside, and to the left it goes to two intake vents mounted at the far end of the tank up high. At the near end of the tank are my 2 x 6" blowers, that blow across the tank between the water and the halides, pushing the heated air towards the vent intakes.
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  #27  
Old 12/10/2007, 06:41 PM
8BALL_99 8BALL_99 is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Toney, AL
Posts: 1,994
Here is My intake and Exhaust vents.



As far as the humistat.. You could still use one if you want to try and keep the moisture down.. I'd just set it pretty high.. Really though I dont worry about the moisture in my room.. I just water proofed everything I could.. My Intake/Exhaust fans are just for tempiture control in the winter.. I exhaust hot air out and bring cool air in.. They are connected to a relay thats controlled by a 5 dollar thermostat.. In the summer I just run the AC. Sometimes I'll cut the fans on if I'm cleaning my skimmers or something.. But for the most part I dont run them in the summer..HTH
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  #28  
Old 12/10/2007, 06:46 PM
jnarowe jnarowe is offline
2011.5
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Poulsbo, WA
Posts: 9,742
FRP all the way eh 8BALL? Very nice. The thing about humidity as it relates to tank rooms is that generally speaking, the temp. rises as the humidity does, so I just control mine by temp. and adjust it occassionally for different seasons.
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Jonathan--DIBS Breeder and Card carrying member of the Square Skimmer Brigade
(Click on the Red House to see my pics garage)
  #29  
Old 12/10/2007, 07:10 PM
redwinger02 redwinger02 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Woodbury,MN
Posts: 173
My plan is insulated walls and ceiling, then a poly vapor barrier over that. Foam all outlets and make it as tight as possible. Then green board the whole thing, paint in a oil based primer and finish. The ventilation is going to be handled by the ERV air exchanger. The return for the fish room is right before the air exchanger so most of the humidity will be sucked right out any remaining humidity will be handled by the central ac/furnace. And fresh cool/heated air will be fed through a single supply. All trim will be caulked to the floor and walls. The floor will be coated in a epoxy paint.
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  #30  
Old 12/10/2007, 08:06 PM
Oldtimer Oldtimer is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Grosse Pointe, MI
Posts: 51
I plan to go with DenseArmor Cement board & exterior paint on the 2 walls that will be finished - half the walls are exterior cement walls so I just plan to seal them with Thoroseal. Lowes has 1/2" 3'x5' DenseArmor sheets for $10. I've decided that the Cement board will be a cheap investment since I don't have much wall to cover. I'll probably install a 6 mil ply vapor barrier between the studs and cement board and fill the wall with fiberglass. The ceiling is already covered with heavy cement based drywall so I'll leave it alone. I plan to insulate the room from the main living area as much as possible and run an HRV and Mini split AC. That ought to do it.
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  #31  
Old 12/10/2007, 08:12 PM
jnarowe jnarowe is offline
2011.5
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Poulsbo, WA
Posts: 9,742
I didn't even know DenseArmor existd when I did my tank roo. Sounds like a good aternative and not too expensive.
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Jonathan--DIBS Breeder and Card carrying member of the Square Skimmer Brigade
(Click on the Red House to see my pics garage)
 


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